Builds The Escape Wagon Restoration (1 Viewer)

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Took the easy way out. Bought a door limit stop assembly with the rubber stopper off ebay for $45.
I’m sure I could have fabricated one but I’m in a bit of a rush. I have to get elbow surgery which will sideline my wrenching for 6 weeks. Have to get my front passenger knuckle rebuilt (I only did the driver side preciously), repaint the Aisin hubs by Wednesday.
 
Ok, I continue to refine my approach to valve adjustments. I’ve struggled figuring out what “slight tension” should be. Having redone the lash I found thst it was a little rumbly at idle. I read a post that said to just pick a tension and make sure you use it consistently accross all cylinders.
Gave it a go tonight. The engine is a bit louder than it was before but its running fantastically well.
I’ve attached a video in case any eagle eared mudders want to give me a performance review 😀
Seriously, If you dont think it sounds right me know.
I’ve never been around another cruiser so have no benchmark to know.
 
Saw the episode of Engine Masters where they compared valve clearances... result was looser valves produced more HP. But with our cruisers, people usually go a little tighter to get rid of the ticking.
 
Sickness continues.
Made a pilgrimage up to CruiserParts in New Hampshire and picked up two more pieces.
Should be my last engine compartment sticker plus a semi-useless front splash shield. Figured it came with one from the factory.
With any luck I’ll get this and my Aisin hubs repainted this weekend.

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Did the permanent fix for my door stop limiter.
Bought a cheap rear door limiter and finagled the rubber bumper if of that. Took a bit of work but easier after hitting it with WD40
Small upgrade but no kore rattle and when the door fully opens it has a soft bump vs clunk.

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Shameless beauty shot.
Getting so close to completion.

To do list:
  • Muffler/Tailpipe
  • Replace instrument panel
  • Kill switch
  • Radiator skid plate/splash shield
  • Fix door ajar/key in ignition buzzer (low priority item)
  • Re-tint windshield after replacing glass during paint and bodywork
  • Drive it till I croak

Land Cruiser Beauty Shot.JPG
 
Ok, I continue to refine my approach to valve adjustments. I’ve struggled figuring out what “slight tension” should be. Having redone the lash I found thst it was a little rumbly at idle. I read a post that said to just pick a tension and make sure you use it consistently accross all cylinders.
Gave it a go tonight. The engine is a bit louder than it was before but its running fantastically well.
I’ve attached a video in case any eagle eared mudders want to give me a performance review 😀
Seriously, If you dont think it sounds right me know.
I’ve never been around another cruiser so have no benchmark to know.

Mmmmm that’s a sexy voice she’s got
 
Sickness continues.
Made a pilgrimage up to CruiserParts in New Hampshire and picked up two more pieces.
Should be my last engine compartment sticker plus a semi-useless front splash shield. Figured it came with one from the factory.
With any luck I’ll get this and my Aisin hubs repainted this weekend.

View attachment 2633664

View attachment 2633665
You’ll be glad you have this installed when you DONT send a tree branch through your lower radiator.
 
Shameless beauty shot.
Getting so close to completion.

To do list:
  • Muffler/Tailpipe
  • Replace instrument panel
  • Kill switch
  • Radiator skid plate/splash shield
  • Fix door ajar/key in ignition buzzer (low priority item)
  • Re-tint windshield after replacing glass during paint and bodywork
  • Drive it till I croak

View attachment 2643601
Re-tint windshield??? Is that legal?
 
Re-tint windshield??? Is that legal?
Great question. Depends on the state.
When I lived in Texas - no
Now that I live in Massachusetts - no
That being said I use 25% (75% light transmission) nano ceramic UV block tint (all windows are the same so it looks factory consistent. I’ve passed state inspections with no issue in both states. I also bought enough extra to re—tint the windshield 4 times (in case of broken glass or overly diligent state troopers making me razor blade it off)
It’s eventually going to live in Tucson where it is legal.
 
That qualifies for a “Don’t ask me how I know this” award 😀
It nearly happened. It was wedged between the ground and the plate. I heard it and thought the worst. If it hadn’t been there I would have likely dumped the radiator on a trail far from anything. Body armor is good. Reminds me, I need to put my transmission plate back on.
 
It absolutely is but unfortunately the lower valence in NLA. The Toyota system did show a brown interior lower panel which I tried to order and subsequently repainted. It then immediately went NLA. It was worth a shot.
Here is the part number for the instrument valence.

valence.jpg
 
It nearly happened. It was wedged between the ground and the plate. I heard it and thought the worst. If it hadn’t been there I would have likely dumped the radiator on a trail far from anything. Body armor is good. Reminds me, I need to put my transmission plate back on.
Good point.
I still need to fabricate a transfer case skid plate after my H55 swap.
 

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