Builds The Dentist - Turbo Diesel LX450 (1 Viewer)

[asutherland]

Christmas came early for the Cruiser! This arrived today from Wink 4wd in the Netherlands. This puppy is going in tomorrow!

It's the high-flow modern turbo, that builds boost quickly, providing better torque for this heavy lady and runs more efficiently and happier.

I'll post up some install pics and comparison with my stock ct26 tomorrow.

 

[IanB]

Do you know what the wastegate is set to out of the box?

 

[asutherland]

No, but I will shortly!

 

[IanB]

No, but I will shortly!

You can test with a bicycle pump before installing!

 

[asutherland]

Little bit of a difference!

 

[cruiserpilot]

So how did you decide between the WINK and GTurbo?

 

[asutherland]

So how did you decide between the WINK and GTurbo?

It was a real toss-up. I was headed the Gturbo way, but had heard a lot of good things about Wink too. And I had the ability to test drive a friend's similarly built 80 with Wink turbo and was very happy with how it performed. Are they on 'Mud too? Does anyone know? Prob are.

 

[asutherland]

A long day for @RockShoes and I. Should not have taken as long as it did, but we managed to get it all together. Had some issues along the way, including the split exhaust manifold literally falling apart as we took it off the truck. Usually these things are hard to get apart! Luckily, John at @Radd Cruisers lives about 10 minutes away - and happen to have some bits we needed including new metal split rings and o-rings. The way it works, basically, is the o-ring goes underneath the metal split washers, forcing them outwards, to create a seal between the two manifold pieces. The o-ring quickly disintegrates with the high temperature of the manifold, but at the same time the rings sort of "seal" or seat themselves in place and usually keep the two pieces sealed and together. This tidbit of cool info John told me about.

Some tips when swapping a turbo on the 1hd-t...

- Follow the FSM directions of removing the whole exhaust manifold and turbo together rather than trying to remove just the turbo
- Buy the Toyota "Turbo gasket kit", part number 04175-17012. It includes necessary exhaust mani gaskets (EXCEPT SPLIT MANI RINGS)
- Buy some extra bits - new studs, nuts, for turbo and for exhaust manifold, two new rubber water line hoses.... maybe two split rings for the manifold
- Let the vehicle sit for an hour or so, draining most of the coolant and oil into the lower parts of the engine
- When you take the two water lines off, plug or pinch one of the hoses off. If you have both open at the same time, it allows air in the one and antifreeze out the other... it will quickly drain a LOT of coolant that way. But if you close one end... both stop pouring.

- Don't bother leaving the oil feed/drain piece on the engine and removing it from the turbo. If you do, you'll end up taking it off anyway when you go to reinstall everything. Speaking of, make sure you have the updated part for the feed/drain line. There was a factory revision to fix a known issue - it developed fracture cracks over time due to vibration. The new version(s) have either a support on it, or a "zig zag" in the feed hardline, to remove the damaging vibrations. Good time to replace it if you're doing this job anyway.

Kit:

OLD split manifold rings (fully compressed, no good anymore)

Misc pics of turbo including some comparison

 

[asutherland]

Without adjusting any boost or fuel settings I took it for a drive. Immediate thoughts, (keep in mind the test drive was at 03:00 after a LONG day)

- Boost comes on as quickly as stock, but with more zip. Definitely more power up the hills so far (without tuning). I would say easily 20-30% more.
- EGTs are definitely less. couldn't even reach 1200 f on a hill climb with my foot matted, that normally I would be driving to my EGT gauge trying to keep temps down below 1300
- EGTs dropped SIGNIFICANTLY faster, both while driving and also while parked after a good haul.
- Boost levels crept up about 3 PSI higher than the stock turbo (without adjusting my controller). Nothing out of range though.
- Turbo is QUIET. A sign of efficiency perhaps? If you're looking for a lot of loud whining, this isn't the one for you. Do like I did, and have a few kids instead.
- Made it drive more like a "Normal modern vehicle" and less like an overweight yacht from 1990.

Next steps will be some slight fiddling with boost and fuel settings, and probably a professional tune.

Pretty darn happy!

 

[asutherland]

Finally finished mounting and plumbing in my catch can. Originally had intended to install a Provent, but ended up selling it because the thing is huge and couldn't find a nice spot to install beside my Webasto. I've been running it just dumped to the ground, but over time it does make a bit of a mess. And after warming up it does stink.

This Moroso unit is the one Petr has been using with good results. I used some random 5/8 heater hoses with factory bends that I picked up at Lordco to keep its plumbing as factory and clean looking as possible. More expensive than bulk hose, but makes my ocd happier

It also has a dump valve with 3/8 hose out the bottom.

 

[asutherland]

A small update from this weekend. I installed an in-cab winch control switch. It's originally a deadman style toggle for a rear window in a 4-runner that I relabeled.

I've simply tapped into the wiring that goes to the winch controller plug. So I can use the dash control OR the winch controller itself.

Normally with the Aisin winch it has a circuit that's connected thru the factory controller, that triggers a large solenoid under the left battery box, that provides main power to the winch. Because my truck never came with the controller, I wired a warn controller and plug from Radd Cruisers (years ago), and ran the main power solenoid switch to a toggle on my dash instead, which is then provided power through an IGN source.

That way, I have to have IGN on, AND the toggle switch "Winch" on, before there is any power at all to the winch.

Works great! One switch blank left. That's reserved for the upcoming sub-tank

Other stuff on the horizon... a 270 awning for camping season, a second (left hand side) swing-out, and likely new Dobinsons suspension all around. 75mm (3") extra-HD lift with longer free-height springs to help in articulation - combined with 4" Dobinsons' fancy new IMS (internal Monotube Shock absorber) shocks. Rated for 880lbs of extra weight, it'll be a far cry from my current Ironman suspension.

 

[asutherland]

My lovely new boost levels have discovered a weak spot - a crack in my intake manifold gasket. Sigh.

Found it using a cool method suggested to me by a fellow member. Cheap and readily available parts too.

2.75" outer diameter ABS sewer cap,
1/8th NPT Schrader valve threaded into it.

Watch this video I made, it's hilarious. Clown car!!!

 

[dan1554]

Unless you're sure its really a crack, you might be able to fix it by double checking the torque on the nuts. Those gaskets are cork and get compressed. Every hdj I've touched (only 2 haha) had loose intake manifold nuts because the gasket pancaked over time.

 

[asutherland]

Unfortunately it was indeed damaged. John from @Radd Cruisers replaced for me yesterday. Thanks for the suggestion though, I always like a cheap and easy fix!

 

[asutherland]

The late winter / early spring weather brings with it a lot of rescue missions into the poor, "sugar snow" conditions. That and family outings!

Either way, airing down lately has been an an absolute necessity. And with that is the necessity of airing back up. I'd gotten tired of using my little Viair electric compressor and decided it was time to spend the effort into putting my York 210 back in. I'd written a post about it on the old truck here: York 210 + AC on 1HD-T - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/york-210-ac-on-1hd-t.976018/ but to summarize,

• Custom 2-part steel bracket, relocates the Denso AC lower and further over, with a custom length v-belt running both compressors. I copied @themorb
• Custom AC top pressure line, custom top plate from a different Toyota. (can't recall which one)
• The OEM tensioner is reused. It's a tight fit, but everything clears and works well.
• Intake comes from a 1/2 inch line that's tied into the clean side of the air filter via a low profile bulkhead AN fitting.
• Steel impregnated high pressure high temp line off the York, thru a high-flow 1 way valve into a 1/2 inch manifold that holds a high flow release valve, the pressure cut off switch, and a basic gauge.
• The waterproof electronic pre set pressure switch cuts the clutch wire at 160 psi. Everything is wired with Deutsch connectors
• From the manifold it goes down to a simple custom alum. bracket I made that bolts to two factory captured nuts in the frame that holds a 1/2 inch high flow separator.
• From the separator it goes through a quick disconnect at the bumper and then to a npt bulkhead connector on my front bumper with a 3/8 Milton M-style connector.
• Automatic idle up using the VSV when running. Tied into the AC idle up circuit using a relay to physically seperate the circits. (had issues with my last install using diodes)
• At idle up (1,100 rpm) it fills a 35" tire in 45 seconds from 18-35psi, at 2,000 using my hand throttle it fills in 25 seconds, but overcomes the Schrader valve so there's not much point.

I've got another video of the gauge as it fills, maintaining 90 psi the whole time... but I found out the Viair filler handle I was using was limiting the flow. Swapped out for a (believe it or not, much cheaper no-name) one, and it fills quicker. I'll do another video

Also, interesting fact I found out... my particular York is from a 1974 Jaguar. It's 47 years old and puts out better than I do. Hah, amazing.

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

The late winter / early spring weather brings with it a lot of rescue missions into the poor, "sugar snow" conditions. That and family outings!

View attachment 2609300

Either way, airing down lately has been an an absolute necessity. And with that is the necessity of airing back up. I'd gotten tired of using my little Viair electric compressor and decided it was time to spend the effort into putting my York 210 back in. I'd written a post about it on the old truck here: York 210 + AC on 1HD-T - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/york-210-ac-on-1hd-t.976018/ but to summarize,

• Custom 2-part steel bracket, relocates the Denso AC lower and further over, with a custom length v-belt running both compressors. I copied @themorb
• Custom AC top pressure line, custom top plate from a different Toyota. (can't recall which one)
• The OEM tensioner is reused. It's a tight fit, but everything clears and works well.
• Intake comes from a 1/2 inch line that's tied into the clean side of the air filter via a low profile bulkhead AN fitting.
• Steel impregnated high pressure high temp line off the York, thru a high-flow 1 way valve into a 1/2 inch manifold that holds a high flow release valve, the pressure cut off switch, and a basic gauge.
• The waterproof electronic pre set pressure switch cuts the clutch wire at 160 psi. Everything is wired with Deutsch connectors
• From the manifold it goes down to a simple custom alum. bracket I made that bolts to two factory captured nuts in the frame that holds a 1/2 inch high flow separator.
• From the separator it goes through a quick disconnect at the bumper and then to a npt bulkhead connector on my front bumper with a 3/8 Milton M-style connector.
• Automatic idle up using the VSV when running. Tied into the AC idle up circuit using a relay to physically seperate the circits. (had issues with my last install using diodes)
• At idle up (1,100 rpm) it fills a 35" tire in 45 seconds from 18-35psi, at 2,000 using my hand throttle it fills in 25 seconds, but overcomes the Schrader valve so there's not much point.

I've got another video of the gauge as it fills, maintaining 90 psi the whole time... but I found out the Viair filler handle I was using was limiting the flow. Swapped out for a (believe it or not, much cheaper no-name) one, and it fills quicker. I'll do another video

Also, interesting fact I found out... my particular York is from a 1974 Jaguar. It's 47 years old and puts out better than I do. Hah, amazing.

View attachment 2609317

View attachment 2609315

View attachment 2609316

Very impressive, I could never mod up something like that

 

[LINUS]

Very impressive, I could never mod up something like that

Not for everyone, but if you have the patience - I bet you could.

It’s just a matter of slowing down, working methodically, labeling & bagging parts & hardware, and documentation.

When you break down the sum of the swap to sub-systems, then plan the steps to work each sub-system - it turns into a situation about like turning pages when building Lego toys, just bigger, more $$$ & slightly greasy.

And if you aren’t under a timeline - I find it therapeutic having a ongoing project.

——————————

@asutherland — If this was originally a USDM LX450 imported to CA, then I scour ads so much I remember it being for sale.

It was seriously underpriced esp if I brought it back - and I did consider it save I couldn’t find a good LBZ donor that wasn’t full frontal, or under $10-12K back when this was FS.

You glowplugged it in a way better than mine - I know I will need to custom some axles for the TQ a LBZ lays down.

It would have been a pretty chopped suspension by the time I had my way installed.

 

[asutherland]

Thanks @SteelHunterFJ80 ! I am not a fabricator by trade or anything. And I had help making the bracket. But it was a LOT of stubborness on my part and many late nights in the cold sizing and re-sizing and adjusting.

@LINUS I think he was just talking about the OBA. I bought the truck bone stock from Vancouver BC... but apparently it had come from Washington, or maybe Oregon. It was a good deal when I bought it.

 

[asutherland]

Finally bit the bullet and extended my swing out. Was thinking I would do dual swingouts but changed my mind. The existing swingout is SUPER sturdy (Thanks @Cruisin' ) and easily holds it all.

Brock from Baja North here in town did the welding and fab. We both came up with the plan and layout. I didn't end up going for any jerry cans, as I have an OEM sub tank going underneath, and my water stays inside beside the pull out kitchen. So 10lb propane tank, chainsaw, backup light and plate holder in addition to the already existing spare tire, jack-all, and camping extendable pole light. Deutsch connectors on the wiring, and an 8 foot quick-disconnect gas line for the propane. I used a DE-STA-CO 341-R latch with safety and it's SUPER sturdy now.

 

[asutherland]

Huracan had a sale on, and after a year of thinking about it I ordered up one of their tailgate mods. @RockShoes also bought one. Very good quality, powder-coated, appears to be water jet cut edges - a perfect fit.. includes the template for cutting and all hardware, some nice padding/insulation for the inside, and some very, very sexy lockable latches. HFAB-US - https://hfabusa.com/

Ed and I had an afternoon project of prep, apprehensive cutting, fitment and install on both our 80s. Turned out great!