Builds The Big Bad Rad Dad LX (Dissent) Build (2 Viewers)

[bemerritt]

This will be my first winch. Why does everyone upgrade to the flatlink - It's stronger and safer?
Did you consider putting the tire on the passenger side?
Did your tire carrier come with a hi-lift mount?

On why everyone upgrades, not really sure. I had a hook on my last one and didn't like it. Ben is a factor 55 retailer, so it seemed the obvious choice. I never looked up the numbers, but holding the flatlink and the hook that came with the come up, there is no doubt the flat link is stronger and most likely minimally safer due to it being a closed feature. But it just moves your failure point potentially elsewehere. I'll let others discuss winch safety deep into oblivion.

I have my tire driver side for two reasons. First, visibility. I still have great visibility thru the rear. I think it would be more of an issue on passenger side. Second, I don't have my LRA tank yet, so siphoning fuel from the swingout just makes sense to have it right by the fuel port.

No Hi-Lift mount yet. I have only used it on the trail very few times and Ben and I had a long chat about how little they get used compared to how often you see people with them. Probably a longer discussion for another day. BUT, he did say he had a mount on the shop rig for a while, but he did not like it and basically he didn't think it was up to snuff to sell to us as consumers. Great that a company has high levels of testing/requirements, but a bummer that one isnt available at this time. I think he is working on a new way of attaching it.

 

[TeCKis300]

Nicely done! The big bodied 200-series wears biggun tires nicely. I feel like we've been conservative with the builds in these forums in regards to tire size. Too narrow, too small. 33 x 11.5s are where the fun starts IMO. Tires themselves make for great compliant off-road suspension, lift, and traction. My philosophy is less armor, less suspension lift, less lockers, and way more tire. Thanks for showing us the way with big dad rad sized tires.

How about, more pics please!

 

[radman]

Nicely done! 33 x 11.5s are where the fun starts IMO.

Thanks! It was surprisingly easy to move the front liner per your instructions, and there was minimal trimming on the step side. I have zero rubbing in all AHC heights, but I haven't checked while aired down nor flexing. I still plan to cut off some of the pinch weld and chop the body mount.

I'm still running stock gears, and I must say, that I'm happy with it. Maybe it's because the KO2s "run small" or maybe it's because chauffeuring around little kids has matured me out of my lead foot IS350 days, but i don't see an immediate need to regear unless the 250lbs of bumpers makes a big difference.

Speaking of, how are you guys calculating mpg? Manually or you trust the ecu? My dash currently shows 8-10 city driving...


The 15 year old craftsman jack started leaking, so I decided to buy the little man something more modern.

 

[radman]

These puppies got picked up in California today!

I bought some 8020 t-slot to screw in as ladder rungs instead of the load panels (yellow lines in the picture below). I figured the kids would enjoy the ladder and the t-slots would give me sufficient anchor points if I decide to mount anything.

Also, I think the comeup will get used more for pulling PowerWheels, but hope to get this rig stuck for real some day

Now I just have to hope everything arrives intact, then sort, powder coat (wait some more), and then the cutting begins!

 

[bozncsurf]

These puppies got picked up in California today. 7 freaking days to Houston!

I bought some 8020 t-slot to screw in as ladder rungs instead of the load panels (yellow lines in the picture below). I figured the kids would enjoy the ladder and the t-slots would give me sufficient anchor points if I decide to mount anything.

Also, I think the comeup will get used more for pulling PowerWheels, but hope to get this rig stuck for real some day

Now I just have to hope everything arrives intact, then sort, powder coat (wait some more), and then the cutting begins!

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loving this

are you the first Ben has shipped the LX bumpers to? I thought it was in-house installs only.

were you able to take advantage of his sale?

 

[radman]

loving this

are you the first Ben has shipped the LX bumpers to? I thought it was in-house installs only.

were you able to take advantage of his sale?

Yes, first LX ship! And what sale?!

 

[bozncsurf]

Yes, first LX ship! And what sale?!

Sorry I misspoke on the sale.

Glad to hear he’s releasing his design into the wild. I feel your pain on the wait. Really stoked to see the install process. Take a TON of pics.

I’ve been casually shopping 200 series - this could sway me toward the LX

 

[1world1love]

Sorry to chime in late. Great to see your hardware shipped. I can’ wait to see how the install goes.

flatlink - not sure about stronger, but definitely safer.

I also put the spare on the drivers side to improve visibility. My spare mount does have both a hinged table and a hi-lift mount.

I’m not much for the hi-lift. It’s a lot of rarely used weight.

 

[1world1love]

Ah yes, I think that was a 100 group buy and I didn't ask. I turn 40 this year and was happy to finally get these ordered - maybe this is my midlife crisis?
One of the reasons Ben was hesitant to ship is because he doesn't have instructions yet. I told him that I'd document the process for future discounts (we'll see how much it slows me down).

There should be 3 small differences on the LX vs LC:
1) LX reverse lights bulge out and may hit the bumper when tailgate is lowered. Ben will make flat blank plates if this happens.
2) the LX front plastic sticks out further than the LC, so might have to use a steel plate as a "spacer" (being supplied).
3) rear bumper will need a AHC pump relocation bracket, and it's being supplied.




Take a look at some of the recent AHC threads. LX rulez, LC drooolz!

1 is definitely true for the 13s and I suspect will be for the 15s as well because I think they have the same part number.

 

[grinchy]

Don't modify your bumper to address the tailgate swing. It is very simple to buy some steel cable and ferrules and just shorten up the drop. It's maybe a 30 min project. Hardest part is finding something to cut the steel cables with (I used an angle grinder).

 

[radman]

Don't modify your bumper to address the tailgate swing. It is very simple to buy some steel cable and ferrules and just shorten up the drop. It's maybe a 30 min project. Hardest part is finding something to cut the steel cables with (I used an angle grinder).

Thought about that, but I think the rear bumper will eventually come with these plates to flatten out the reverse light area.

 

[grinchy]

Thought about that, but I think the rear bumper will eventually come with these plates to flatten out the reverse light area.

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Oh. Replacements block off plates. Dissent stuff is so sweet.

 

[TeCKis300]

Wonder how much the interference is? And if the rear bumper couldn't be hung incrementally lower to clear?

I think those two lights are another secret advantage of the LX. I'm re-wiring them to be used as scene lights at night so I don't have to add another light fixture. Swing outs block them anyways so no big loss.

 

[1world1love]

The interference is enough that it would almost certainly do some damage the first time that you put any weight on the tailgate. You could shorten the cables, but then your tailgate wouldn’t lay flat. Ben’s solution was to fab the plates that radman posted above. They are thick aluminum and powder coated to match. The fit is spot on and you wouldn’t know they are not OEM.

teckis300 - you could definitely repurpose them, and if you were creative enough, you could find a solution that would keep them functional but also flat or partially recessed.

I found that when I’m camped, the hatch is up, tailgate down, and arms swung out, so nothing I would do there would provide much benefit for me.

 

[1world1love]

radman, I really like your idea about using 8020 cross-members instead of solid plates. I may try it and see if it can accommodate all my stuff while saving some weight. I currently have a 4 gallon rotopax on the outside, and I have a 5 gallon scepter which you will find fits perfectly in the inside cavity at the bottom. Right now I have it strapped in, but I plan on making a proper mount. I also have an OLS first aid case mounted on the inside at the top. I plan on mounting a fire extinguisher there as well.

The 8020 should handle all of that with no problem.

 

[radman]

The 8020 should handle all of that with no problem.

Is your tire carrier open all the way? looks close to the tailgate in that picture.
I bought enough to make 6 rungs - some 1" x 1" for the top of the risers and some 1"x2" that I can mount horizontally or vertically. Horizontal would give a 2" step, but also eat up the space you have your water can. If mounted vertically, it only uses 1" of the area and provides a stronger step that wont bow.

Also, with the ladder on the DS, I might be able to get away with not having to relocate the rear camera.

I thought about keeping a jerry where you have yours, but I think i'm going to make a DIY pressurized water storage using 6" pvc for the roof. 10 gallons should be enough to wash sand off 4 kiddos.

I'm not sure why everyone over complicates these with additional T's and fill holes. A simple adapter will allow you to fill it with the water spout (while self-pressurizing it at the same time).

 

[1world1love]

Is your tire carrier open all the way? looks close to the tailgate in that picture.
I bought enough to make 6 rungs - some 1" x 1" for the top of the risers and some 1"x2" that I can mount horizontally or vertically. Horizontal would give a 2" step, but also eat up the space you have your water can. If mounted vertically, it only uses 1" of the area and provides a stronger step that wont bow.

Also, with the ladder on the DS, I might be able to get away with not having to relocate the rear camera.

I thought about keeping a jerry where you have yours, but I think i'm going to make a DIY pressurized water storage using 6" pvc for the roof. 10 gallons should be enough to wash sand off 4 kiddos.

Yeah, its deceiving but I am actually parked on a steep grade here and the tire swing arm isn’t able to fully extend out.

That pressurized water tank solution looks great. I will say that I now rarely carry liquids on the roof anymore and when I do, I try to ensure that there is very little room for sloshing around. The reason is that liquid isn’t a static load. Let’s say that you use 4 gallons and then get on the road. You have 6 gallons which is ~42 lbs moving from side to side at a high point on your rig. Although it isn’t enough to cause any major issues, you definitely will feel it. Even full, it will have movement that you will need to account for in your driving.

I have a 2x Jerry can mount and I have taken a couple of trips with full cans mounted and it is a different experience than having them in the vehicle or on the bumper. Still though, lots of people have RoadShower’s mounted on their racks and do just fine with it. I like the DIY option though.

I carry a rechargeable battery powered shower head and collapsible bucket. Its not as good as a pressurized solution, but is good enough for a quick rinse off. I can also use warm water in the bucket which makes the wife happy.

 

[radman]

This is happening! And some fist pumps for @benc

 

[tbisaacs]

Holy crap this is exciting. You gonna powdercoat?

 

[CharlieS]

This is happening! And some fist pumps for @benc

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Wow, looks awesome. Huge project though. That's going to take a lot of beer.