Builds The Big Bad Rad Dad LX (Dissent) Build (1 Viewer)

[radman]

I purchased this 2015 LX about a year ago after searching for about 6 months. It was a single owner (60 year old female executive) that never saw dirt with 55k miles on it for $40k.

I went from a '95 Grand Cherokee (2" lift on 31" shoes) to a '06 IS350, to a '13 GS350, and now this beast. It's crazy to see it next to my "lifted" Jeep.

The wife drives a 2wd Yukon XL (suburban) and didn't really need another big car, but yolo. We took our first family road trip to CO in the Yukon and it did great, but I can't imagine doing that trip in the winter with 2wd.

I have 4 kids that are 5 and under (hence the build name), and soon hope to take some epic trips with them. The original plan was to have 2 car seats in the LX, but it soon became the favored vehicle to ride in by the kids, so went ahead and threw 4 in there for now.

I grew up as a craftsman, learned to wrench on old cars, and now I work in IT. This rig has been able to put a lot of my skillz to good use.

 

[radman]

Wheels and Tires were first priority to un-soccer mom this rig. Ended up getting a $1500 deal on some BBS pro take-offs, sold the Michelin's, and mounted some 275/70/18 KO2s.

When I went in to buy a 5th tire for a spare, I jokingly asked if I could "upgrade" to a bigger size if I wasn't "happy with the LT275's". Long story short, I got full credit towards 5x LT305/70/18s. Does 34.8" get me in the "35 club"??

1.25" spidertrax spacers were initially cosmetic, but then necessary for the 35s. The BBS center bore is 110.5mm (tundra) vs our 110mm, so technically I'm lug-centric vs hub&lug. Anyone know if the Heritage wheels are 110mm or 110.5? This is my first hub-centric vehicle, so maybe I have too much faith in the lugs? We shall see....

Just FYI- There seems to be updated instructions for the spacers. Old spec'd 97ft-lbs but now it's 130ft-lbs on the spacer (still 97 on the wheel).


The weighted width of the 35s @35psi is 34.5"....

 

[radman]

Top Hat was next:

Went with a prinsu. Loosely assembled inside, then mounted to rig. No major issues other than lowering the front deflector and rigging up a mount for the monster Adapt.

I got 4 load panels so the kids could sit up top. Not cheap, but significantly strengthen the crossbars! I wouldn't be able to stand on a bar without major flexing.

I took @Taco2Cruiser's advice and used non-hardening form-a-gasket vs RTV and have really been happy with the rack.

I never found proper torque specs into the roof, so I need to check those soon.

 

[radman]

ARB twin:

Used a Slee bracket, and really happy with it. The stainless air hose gave me the most trouble, but just remember that the fitting will move if you use a vise and go slow.

Also made a cheap quad-air hose.

Quad-air parts list:

Best Upgrades for Under $100 (200-Series)

Also, the YotaMD Titanium Key Fob Shell. Especially if your factory fob is starting to get cracked or you want less bulk in your pocket. Very well made and designed! YOTAMD Thread HERE not for 2018s yet :frown:

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[radman]

24 gallon LRA:

 

[radman]

Some of my favorite photos:

This one made a lot of you guys mad

 

[radman]

I've helped 2 homies flush their AHC fluid, but first time on my own rig @62k miles.

Everything takes longer with 4 helpers, so I extracted reservoir the first evening and casually bled the accumulators the next day.

Small container is from reservoir and the bigger is from all the bleeding.

I know a lot of guys like to use fluid pumps, but I noticed that this could introduce a lot of tiny air bubbles.

Here's my setup to slowly add fluid:

Sadly, there's no way a dealer would take the time to do this the right way. You definatley need 4-5 liters to get pink fluid all around.

There's a lot of good posts out there, but here's a quick summary.

1) park in Lo mode
2) extract old fluid. I use siphon method with 1/4" aquarium air tubing. Then shopvac the end of the tube to make sure I got it all out.
3) Fill res with entire 2.5L can of fluid, then raise to Normal
4) it's not in the FSM, but I bleed the 5th accumulator first.
5) start rig and let ahc pump fill missing fluid.
6) turn off and bleed driver front accumulator Until suspension stops (I use 12oz topo chico bottles and stop around 10oz)
7) start rig and let ahc pump fill missing fluid. You'll see suspension raise and level out.
8) repeat 5-6 with driver rear, then passenger front, and pass rear last.

I went around and repeated all 5 bleeders since I had a lot of extra fluid.

Keep in mind, ahc pump will automatically replace fluid you bleed at each globe, but won't replace the 5th accumulator until you try to raise to Hi.

 

[ThomasGS4]

Looking forward to this one!

 

[Slip]

Your truck is practically the template for what mine will be, except in white! Looking forward to the thread.

 

[radman]

Rigid support/warranty sucksssss!

It took 3 calls to get them to admit that condensation is bad. The first 2 times they told me to wait a few weeks so the "weather could equalize inside the pods".
Those wet pods eventually started to flicker and pick their own accent light, so they finally agreed to fix it. Maybe Amazon has spoiled me, but they want me to pay to ship it back to them
I can't imagine 40" @ 25lbs is going to be cheap...

 

[bloc]

For the money rigid charges they should be begging you to send the stuff back on their dime.

Either way beautiful truck!

 

[grinchy]

For the money rigid charges they should be begging you to send the stuff back on their dime.

Either way beautiful truck!

Yes and yes!

 

[CharlieS]

Nice setup. Did your spare still fit with the aux tank? I thought it only fit with the little one (12.5 gal?).

That tire size comparison picture is awesome!! I didn't realize how much of a difference there is.

 

[Bomar]

The spare is on the roof in his photos @CharlieS

 

[CharlieS]

The spare is on the roof in his photos @CharlieS

Wow, I have no idea how I didn't see that! Thanks @Bomar !

 

[tacoduck]

Subbed for awesomeness

 

[radman]

Our bubble in Houston is 5 square miles, so I never planned on carrying a spare in town. I threw it up top to test out road trip conditions, but then I saw @1world1love's Dissent pictures and I fell in loveeee.
Still, I didn't want a rear tire carrier because that would complicate dropping the kids off at school car line, but the Dissent swing arms come off in 5 mins! So maybe I'll leave the arms off so I can use the power hatch, or I'll leave everything on and make the kids deal with holding all their stuff!

 

[bemerritt]

Looks great! Wasn't expecting to see my rear end while scrolling thru it, happy it provided some inspiration. If you have any questions regarding the rear bumper, feel free to reach out.

 

[bemerritt]

Also, my wife and I always joke that we can' t have another kid (have 2) because then we will need a new vehicle to travel comfortably. Guess I can't use that as an excuse anymore!

 

[radman]

Looks great! Wasn't expecting to see my rear end while scrolling thru it, happy it provided some inspiration. If you have any questions regarding the rear bumper, feel free to reach out.

This will be my first winch. Why does everyone upgrade to the flatlink - It's stronger and safer?
Did you consider putting the tire on the passenger side?
Did your tire carrier come with a hi-lift mount?