The best part about bodywork on an FJ40 … (1 Viewer)

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Is most pieces are flat. :)

My rocker panels have taken a beating and the driver’s side had some cancer in them.

Cut out the bad spot and trim 2 inches from the bottom of the fender and the rest of the rocker.
Rocker%20panel%201.jpg


Cut and shape new piece to fit the hole then tack weld in place. I used an extra side panel from a Honeywell cabinet I got for free from work. Can’t pass of a flat piece of 16gage metal. :D
Rocker%20panel%202.jpg


Finish welding and grind the excess weld off.
Rocker%20panel%204.jpg


Cover with some primer until I can paint.
Rocker%20panel%205.jpg


I wanted to clean up this area before I make and install sliders so I can keep the future damage to this area at a minimum.
 
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nice work ... auto body work blowwssss .... first 10 minutes is alright the next 73 hours is all down hill.

did you have much warpage?
 
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Thanks :)

This is the first project/wheeling rig I have ever wanted to do body work on. It must be I finally have a rig that is worth fixing the body up on. ;)

I do have to say that a year ago I probably wouldn't have tackled a job like this, but after all the mods and projects I have done to the cruiser I didn't even think twice about jumping right into it.
 
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bandy rooster said:
nice work ... auto body work blowwssss .... first 10 minutes is alright the next 73 hours is all down hill.

did you have much warpage?

No warpage

The bottom edge is bent 90* and I place a tack weld ever 2 to 3 inches then I would weld an inch or so and let it cool then weld another inch or so. It took a while to weld but no warpage. :)
 
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G_Stratton said:
Cover with some primer until I can paint.

You want to put some temporary topcoat on that. Most primers are not really waterproof and if you drive it in the rain, you may get some water seep through the primer and it can start the rust all over again. That's what I've read on some painting sites (www.paintucation.com) anyway. Put some rattlecan on it until you can do the real paint.
 
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Soul_Man said:
You want to put some temporary topcoat on that. Most primers are not really waterproof and if you drive it in the rain, you may get some water seep through the primer and it can start the rust all over again. That's what I've read on some painting sites (www.paintucation.com) anyway. Put some rattlecan on it until you can do the real paint.

It will be painted before it leaves the garage. ;)

I plan on finding the closest match to the color it is painted already, in a rattle can and go with that. This rig will see mostly trail and I don't want to drop a lot of coin on a paint job that I will worry about scratching.
 
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Good. Just wanted to make sure. You see so many cars/trucks driving around with just primer...
 
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ridgerunner said:
I thought the best part about body work is when you're done with it. :D

Nice work!


second that








look good:cheers:
 
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Thanks

I'm not finished yet, I still have the passenger side to do. :p

The fun one will be my 78 FJ40. I will be replacing 90% of the body on it.
 
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Looks really good!

It looks like you butt welded the new piece in correct? I was also wondering how much of a "seam" did you weld at a time to prevent it from warping?

Looks great. Keep up the good work.

Rezarf <><
 
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REZARF said:
Looks really good!

It looks like you butt welded the new piece in correct? I was also wondering how much of a "seam" did you weld at a time to prevent it from warping?

Looks great. Keep up the good work.

Rezarf <><

I would run about a 1-1/2" bead then let it cool.
 
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ridgerunner said:
:eek: Ouch. Good luck, that's quite the endeavor! :cheers:

I know a guy who has a frame and body to a 69 FJ40 sitting in his mom’s back yard. I'm hoping to talk him out of it and use the tub and fenders for my 78.

Here's a funny to think about. I have owned lots of rigs in my life. Cruisers are the only ones I enjoy pulling apart and putting back together.
 
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G_Stratton said:
I would run about a 1-1/2" bead then let it cool.


Thanks!

Rezarf <><
 

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