The 80 would not turn off until (1 Viewer)

[phatairman]

I turn the rear defrost switch off.

Let me explain, the engine will turn off when I turned the key to off but the AC/Heater will stayed on and the lights in the dash stayed on until I turn the rear defrost off. This is extremely wierd, I know.

A little history on my truck, when I brought from my Dad he had a cell phone system removed (ie. ripped out). So when I picked the 80 up from him, it acted wierd when the rear hatch was opened. For example, if the headlights are turned on and I turn the truck off and I open the rear hatch the lights (headlights and rears) would come on. If I close the rear hatch; the lights will turn off.

Also when I open the rear hatch, the locks will lock and unlock. But mostly lock. I think this has something to do with the aftermarket keyless entry system my Dad had installed and the car's cell phone system being ripped out.

Does anyone have a clue on what is happening and how to fix it.

Thanks Matt

 

[miked]

i dunno.. check for frayed/shorted wires?
or maybe the switch in the latch is bad.

 

[NorCalDoug]

have you tried holy water?


Definitly sounds like a wire grounding out somewhere.
I don't think the LCs had cell phones as an option, so it would most likely be aftermarket. Maybe something associated with the ignition? It's like the electrical system doesn't know the key's off/removed.

 

[phatairman]

No holy water......yet.

It is an aftermarker cell phone system.

Another wierd thing, when I turn the rear wiper on, nothing happens but for a clicking noise every few seconds. Sorta like when the wiper should wipe the click noise happens.

I was thinking it might have something to do with the latch switch like miked said.

 

[cruiserdan]

Did this all happen after the phone got repo'd?


If so, I suggest going in where they came out and looking for damaged and or cross-feeding circuits. If they had some kind of taps in the fuse block, those could have gotten jacked around and may be bridging circuits.

D-

 

[sjcruiser]

If you have aftermarket alarm, then it's possible that every door including the hatch power lock modules' are tapped into (adding a relay...) Try disabling it if you haven't already; or better yet rip all these added relays off to be safe.

I had a MKIII Supra (added aftermarket alarm) that required BOTH doors to be opened before I could roll any windows up or down - what an evil!!!

 

[ogsuv]

I would start digging around in the driver's kick panel area and under the column for exposed/frayed/tapped into wires. Sounds like they did a poor job on the uninstall. Also check for blown fuses (they can cause similar oddities)

Oh yeah, rookie shops sometimes shove wires in with the fuses or use some kind of connector that expands the fuse clips causing intermittant connection.

It's possible the uninstaller just took the keyless/alarm/cell phone whatever harness and snipped it one swift slice.

good luck.

 

[sixsracing]

Remove ALL aftermarket wiring. AAA at one time reported that aftermarket alarms were responsible for 80% of all reported no starts/service calls. That's a steep figure. Quite a few of the remote operating locks are also tied in to the alarm system. It sounds like you have a relay that allows the lights and auto latches to be activated without the key in the ignition. The installer has fed the aftermarket relay and or black box with the hot lead of the ignition, this enables the above locks and lights to be remotely activated. Unfortunately, it also allows a component to malfunction and keep the car running through a relay/fuse that is probably not rated to pass that anount of amperage. Right now you have a potential drained battery and or fire waiting for a place to happen. Subaru's had a similar problem with their cooling fan switches, if the fan was running when you turned the car off, the car would continue to run because the switch had gone bad and was passing the ignition current through it and back to the main harness. I have seen some pretty poor installations of these things, some are actually wired to the hot side of the vehicles ECU. A BMW that a friend had in his shop was totalled by the insurance co. because the "tech" that had performed the stereo installation had inadvertantly shorted out 14 of the vehicles control boxes. Estimate to repair was $23,000.00.

 

[franku]

I turn the rear defrost switch off.

Let me explain, the engine will turn off when I turned the key to off but the AC/Heater will stayed on and the lights in the dash stayed on until I turn the rear defrost off. This is extremely wierd, I know.

A little history on my truck, when I brought from my Dad he had a cell phone system removed (ie. ripped out). So when I picked the 80 up from him, it acted wierd when the rear hatch was opened. For example, if the headlights are turned on and I turn the truck off and I open the rear hatch the lights (headlights and rears) would come on. If I close the rear hatch; the lights will turn off.

Also when I open the rear hatch, the locks will lock and unlock. But mostly lock. I think this has something to do with the aftermarket keyless entry system my Dad had installed and the car's cell phone system being ripped out.

Does anyone have a clue on what is happening and how to fix it.

Thanks Matt

phatairman, did you fix this problem?

I have the same thing... no one has done any work on the car though ...

IFyou did fix it, what was the problem and how did you fix it?

Frank

 

[firetruck41]

Try wiggling the harness that goes from the body to the back hatch, if that fixes the problem, you have a short in the wire harness there.

 

[Cattledog]

So sorry to hear this. Time to pull the dash apart and start looking for hacked wiring harnesses. Also check behind the third row rear driver side panel. the factory phone was in that spot.

I ran into this type of issue when I bought an 85 efi hilux with an aftermarket alarm, tow converter and lights. Had to rewire about half of the truck. It sucked.

 

[Sackman]

Just put an apple in the exhaust... Thats the trick

























Jk

 

[franku]

phatairman, did you fix this problem?

I have the same thing... no one has done any work on the car though ...

IFyou did fix it, what was the problem and how did you fix it?

Frank

This is why I love Forums!

Ask a question once of many people rather than asking the same question 100 times of one person at a time and much faster!

I pushed the harness between the hatch and the vehicle and hey presto!

Thanks a lot for helping me find the problem - now one more question...

What is involved in removing the headliner to get access to the wiring up there?

 

[Beowulf]

What is involved in removing the headliner to get access to the wiring up there?

Depends on year. 95-97 (US models) have a formed headliner that is spendy if you bust it but it is much easier to remove. The earlier models have some cloth suspended from the roof and I have heard it is a major pain to remove... also quite expensive though not as bad as the single formed headliner.

-B-

 

[franku]

Hi there,

Mine is an 80 series...

Photo attached of the headliner I have (mine is an Australian right hnd drive....)

Hw do you detatch the headliner? do you have to break anything?

 

[franku]

The good news is that I removed he headliner just in that side of the rear of the car which was pretty easy and the issue appeared to be that the connector itself just on the car side of where the wires come in from the hatch had very dirty connectors cusing high resistance.

I cleaned them up and sprayed them with some teflon spray to prevent corrossion and everything works again nicely - wiggle those wires like no tomorrow and everything is still fine..

Thanks for all the advice - it is appreciated!