Builds Texas Reds - The Tale of Two Red 40’s (1 Viewer)

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I posted this question in another thread, and have been getting mixed answers - wanted to ask here as well since it is relevant.

I am wiring up the distributor, tach, and 12v ignition. Someone recommended I wire the DUI through a relay. Is this correct?

DUI Relay.jpg
 
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Haha. Same guy messages me to do a relay every time I wire one too.

I think I grasp it now - and found a good photo from the Ole Blue build thread to compare to.

I also had the incorrect wire labeled factor tach previously. It is the male plug, solid black wire, that went to igniter/coil. The thicker, female plug end, Black with yellow stripe, is 12v.

DUI wiring part 2.png
 

EWheeler

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One thing I forgot to cover on the Sniper install.

With the Sniper I highly recommend an active vent/charcoal system. This is a high flow system that puts lots of fuel through the return.

In order for Charcoal systems to work they need vacuum.

Toyota had a check valve in the spaghetti system to that often gets tossed out when you desmog

I add a T into the vacuum advance line to only make the truck pull vacuum on the charcoal at RPM not at idle.

That way you don’t have the sniper fighting extra raw gas fumes at idle.

View attachment 2244056

View attachment 2244057

View attachment 2244058
Thank you for such a detailed thread on the sniper install. 1st question - is the LCD screen also the ECM? Is the LCD a requirement for the system to function? I can see that as being a downfall if this system if so. It’s nice to have the visual, but I’m hoping the system doesn’t meet that piece to function.

Second question in regards to your post above. The regulator is remote, correct? So any extra fuel is returned to the tank before it hits the throttle body, correct? Where are the fumes coming from? If the flow is too high to the throttlebody, wouldn’t it just flood the engine with fuel? I’m not understanding why the charcoal canister is necessary or how the TB would get overwhelmed with fumes at idle giving a rich condition.

Once again, thank you for your attention to details in your postings. This thread has convinced me to go Sniper on my 2F!
 

wngrog

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Thank you for such a detailed thread on the sniper install. 1st question - is the LCD screen also the ECM? Is the LCD a requirement for the system to function? I can see that as being a downfall if this system if so. It’s nice to have the visual, but I’m hoping the system doesn’t meet that piece to function.

Second question in regards to your post above. The regulator is remote, correct? So any extra fuel is returned to the tank before it hits the throttle body, correct? Where are the fumes coming from? If the flow is too high to the throttlebody, wouldn’t it just flood the engine with fuel? I’m not understanding why the charcoal canister is necessary or how the TB would get overwhelmed with fumes at idle giving a rich condition.

Once again, thank you for your attention to details in your postings. This thread has convinced me to go Sniper on my 2F!
The ECM is in the Sniper body, not the LSD.

The Sniper comes with a regulator. This install I used a Corvette regulator. Both send way more fuel back to the 40+ year old tank than the old carburetor. The extra flow of the return can (not always) cause pressure issues and fumes.

What I have found in the 15 or so Snipers I have installed is that the 60 series is the most vulnerable to fumes from over pressure than the 40 from the return.

I put an in tank pump in my 45 and used the vent on the pump assembly to a roll over valve and I’ve been very happy with that. No tank pressure. No fumes.
 

EWheeler

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The ECM is in the Sniper body, not the LSD.

The Sniper comes with a regulator. This install I used a Corvette regulator. Both send way more fuel back to the 40+ year old tank than the old carburetor. The extra flow of the return can (not always) cause pressure issues and fumes.

What I have found in the 15 or so Snipers I have installed is that the 60 series is the most vulnerable to fumes from over pressure than the 40 from the return.

I put an in tank pump in my 45 and used the vent on the pump assembly to a roll over valve and I’ve been very happy with that. No tank pressure. No fumes.
So the fumes are really coming from the tank from so much agitation and potential pressurization? Just trying to visualize what’s going on exactly. I dumped my charcoal canister so your proposed solution isn’t really an option for my system, but certainly a good one for those maintaining the stock evap system.

has anyone tried to source a lower flow fuel pump so as to not have such an issue with amount of return fuel? I’ve read in other threads where the owners suspect the amount of return fuel cause fuel heat/boiling issues. Your fuel pump is essentially a fuel heater if it is oversized too much. One owner use a small resistor to drop the voltage to his pump, but I can’t say if that’s a good or bad solution. Maybe DC motors don’t care about too much under voltage like AC motors?
 

wngrog

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The
So the fumes are really coming from the tank from so much agitation and potential pressurization? Just trying to visualize what’s going on exactly. I dumped my charcoal canister so your proposed solution isn’t really an option for my system, but certainly a good one for those maintaining the stock evap system.

has anyone tried to source a lower flow fuel pump so as to not have such an issue with amount of return fuel? I’ve read in other threads where the owners suspect the amount of return fuel cause fuel heat/boiling issues. Your fuel pump is essentially a fuel heater if it is oversized too much. One owner use a small resistor to drop the voltage to his pump, but I can’t say if that’s a good or bad solution. Maybe DC motors don’t care about too much under voltage like AC motors?
The stock pump is 3-5 psi. The Sniper requires 65 psi. I don’t know the exact gallons per minute but I assure you the EFI is generating a lot more flow back into the tank. Make sure it’s vented. Charcoal is optimal but optional
 

EWheeler

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Tools and tricks that I love.

View attachment 2229845

Where do you use that Accel pig tail at, I'm assuming the distributor? The pig tail in the photos does not look like the one in the package - just trying to get all my parts ordered so they are ready and waiting for me at home to copy your setup when I return from out of town assignment.

And in a classic case of “you should quit while you are ahead”

I decided to change out the starter with a gear reduction that Drew wanted. I like these way better.

When I pulled the hot wire off the starter I hit the long brake line for the front brakes and it arched a hole in it right into the curly q section

Unreal. That’s a first.

Then the 22” HD cable would not reach the new post.

@Fourrunner has been summoned for a new cable. And @Cruiser Corps for a new brake line.

I’m out. Great productive couple sessions. Hate ending on a low note but sometimes it’s best to fold em for a few days and recharge.

View attachment 2229955

Do you have a source or PN for this preferred starter? Is it OEM or aftermarket?
 

wngrog

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Where do you use that Accel pig tail at, I'm assuming the distributor? The pig tail in the photos does not look like the one in the package - just trying to get all my parts ordered so they are ready and waiting for me at home to copy your setup when I return from out of town assignment.



Do you have a source or PN for this preferred starter? Is it OEM or aftermarket?

Those pigtails are always in stock at my local Oreilley.

I get the starters on eBay. Reman Toyota. Plug in 1984 Land Cruiser
 

JDNs78FJ40

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Where do you use that Accel pig tail at, I'm assuming the distributor? The pig tail in the photos does not look like the one in the package - just trying to get all my parts ordered so they are ready and waiting for me at home to copy your setup when I return from out of town assignment.



Do you have a source or PN for this preferred starter? Is it OEM or aftermarket?
Here is the pigtail I ordered from Amazon Amazon product
 
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The ECM is in the Sniper body, not the LSD.

The Sniper comes with a regulator. This install I used a Corvette regulator. Both send way more fuel back to the 40+ year old tank than the old carburetor. The extra flow of the return can (not always) cause pressure issues and fumes.

What I have found in the 15 or so Snipers I have installed is that the 60 series is the most vulnerable to fumes from over pressure than the 40 from the return.

I put an in tank pump in my 45 and used the vent on the pump assembly to a roll over valve and I’ve been very happy with that. No tank pressure. No fumes.
Trying to get fumes/pressure under control as well with my sniper setup. I've been piecing together a de-smogged charcoal canister setup, with vcv and ocv valves, check valve on vent line, and of course the canister. Does anyone have ideas on a) how to wire up the ocv with sniper? should I use a relay and one of the 5v programmable wires to open it after start? And b) routing the main ocv line--does this go to manifold vaccuum? My air cleaner also doesn't have any ports for the return line, so trying to figure that piece out. Am I over thinking it?
 
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