Temps in AZ for an 80 (1 Viewer)

[Funner]

2. Blue fan clutch, unmodified, OEM fan original to the 1996 truck.

@LongDuck Tommy, I think this is an issue. Like some others that posted above, with a Tyc and modified fan clutch, replaced foam and all the other pm, I typically run 190s to low 200s. I have to turn my ac fan down to 1 or 2 as the ac gets too cold after 20 minutes of running. There are 2-3 long uphill grades in Az that I typically shut the ac off for temporarily, we all know the ones I am talking about.

 

[Saddletramp]

Taken from elsewhere on mud

Toyota designed excess capacity into the cooling system, that's all. The 80 heat management conditions are as follows for a stock 80 thermostat:

Closed Loop Thermostat Operation (T-stat generates Heat Load)
Engine Temp < 203F means Engine Heat Load < Total Cooling Capacity
AND Thermostat < 10mm open

Closed Loop Ideal Thermostat Operation (ideal)
Engine Temp = 203F means Engine Heat Load = Total Cooling Capacity
AND Thermostat = 10mm open

Open Loop Radiator Fan Operation (fan generates increase Cooling Capacity)
Engine Temp > 203F < 226 means Engine Heat Load > Total Cooling Capacity + Fan (overcapacity)
AND Thermostat = 10mm open

*Overheat* Open Loop Radiator Fan Operation (A/C shutdown to reduce Heat Load)
Engine Temp > 226F means Engine Heat Load > Total Cooling Capacity + Fan (overcapacity)
AND Thermostat = 10mm open

*Overheat* Open Loop Radiator Fan Operation (Radiator cap pressure relief)
Engine Temp > 230F means Engine Heat Load - A/C load > Total Cooling Capacity + Fan (overcapacity)
AND Thermostat = 10mm open

This seems to point to 226F as the spot that should cause you to worry, AC shuts off instead of you doing it. The ruck is hot and needs to cool down.

 

[peacesells63]

in 8 years of abuse, my a/c has only shut off once. That was on on 122f day a few years ago, towing a 3000lb travel trailer in stop and go traffic at 3pm. That was with an extremely sludged up cooling system, original eaton fan that was so/so. if I kept the truck at 1200rpm, the ac would stay on and the gauge would drop, so I put it in 4 low and crept along to keep the dogs and wife cool.

I went through my cooling system a few years ago and replaced everything, flushed, went to a black hub fan clutch with thicker silicone, foam sealing all of the gaps, hood vents etc. The truck behaves about the same now except the fan clutch kicks in on steep grades and slows me down. Been thinking about building a front bumper that doesn't block as much air as the ARB, its pretty bad.

 

[LongDuck]

I have installed foam at the top edge of the TYC1918 Radiator as it doesn't come with foam like the OEM does. This prevents hot underhood airflow from being sucked into that gap in the shroud and then pulled through the radiator. My fan blades are flexible and intact, as I'm in the habit of opening the hood in the garage whenever I get home to let out the engine heat, anyway.

Talking to @Saddletramp just today, quote: "I don't worry about engine temp until it hits 220F (*...but get an UltraGauge Bluetooth so you'll know when you're there!)"

I'm also going to devise a way to clean out the AC Condensor by blasting hose water through it from back to front to be sure it's flowing air so the Radiator can breathe. Maybe that'll help a but, too.

 

[Funner]

I have installed foam at the top edge of the TYC1918 Radiator as it doesn't come with foam like the OEM does. This prevents hot underhood airflow from being sucked into that gap in the shroud and then pulled through the radiator. My fan blades are flexible and intact, as I'm in the habit of opening the hood in the garage whenever I get home to let out the engine heat, anyway.

Talking to @Saddletramp just today, quote: "I don't worry about engine temp until it hits 220F (*...but get an UltraGauge Bluetooth so you'll know when you're there!)"

View attachment 2714541

I'm also going to devise a way to clean out the AC Condensor by blasting hose water through it from back to front to be sure it's flowing air so the Radiator can breathe. Maybe that'll help a but, too.

To be clear this is the part that I think you could improve on-

2. Blue fan clutch, unmodified

 

[Saddletramp]

@LongDuck the original fan clutch that was in the truck was modded by Kevin. If you still have it install it or mod your blue clutch. @medtro modded a black clutch for me that worked perfectly.

 

[DSRTRDR]

Ive been thinking about a new radiator, it runs fine on flat ground but while climbing hills temps get up to 220* is the Koyo A1918 still the go to rad?
Im asking since the AZ boys would know best about the heat.

we've had good experience with the TYC radiator from Amazon or Rockauto in our 80

the OEM radiator cap, however, will not make a good seal (don't ask me how I know ), so you'd need an aftermarket cap

 

[DSRTRDR]

our 80 runs about 5-10 degrees cooler than the LX - when the LX is at 193 on the highway, the 80 is at 186

differences:

80: 220K on the motor - LX: 2K

80: blue hub fan clutch, with 25K viscosity fluid - LX: black hub fan clutch with 10K fluid

80: TYC radiator - LX: Koyo

80: older S/C - LX: newer S/C

both have 175 degrees thermostats, foam at the radiator and OEM fans - both have a short bus bumper

the 80 has a Harbor Freight winch, the LX has a Warn 8500

 

[DSRTRDR]

on the trail at 110 degrees or more, they both hold temperature just ~203-206 with the A/C off - if the A/C is on, it depends on air flow, speed, and uphill vs. downhill

in city traffic, we don't really have any issues

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I have installed foam at the top edge of the TYC1918 Radiator as it doesn't come with foam like the OEM does. This prevents hot underhood airflow from being sucked into that gap in the shroud and then pulled through the radiator. My fan blades are flexible and intact, as I'm in the habit of opening the hood in the garage whenever I get home to let out the engine heat, anyway.

Talking to @Saddletramp just today, quote: "I don't worry about engine temp until it hits 220F (*...but get an UltraGauge Bluetooth so you'll know when you're there!)"

View attachment 2714541

I'm also going to devise a way to clean out the AC Condensor by blasting hose water through it from back to front to be sure it's flowing air so the Radiator can breathe. Maybe that'll help a but, too.

please report back. My 80 is parked for the summer as the AC just can't keep up and my temps slowly creep up.... even after the 30k cst blue hub, new rad, foam, new tstat, new water pump.... i ran out of ideas. and now my 100 is running around 213F....

 

[peacesells63]

please report back. My 80 is parked for the summer as the AC just can't keep up and my temps slowly creep up.... even after the 30k cst blue hub, new rad, foam, new tstat, new water pump.... i ran out of ideas. and now my 100 is running around 213F....

Check base timing, if it is turned way up the motor will run hotter. I have my 95 somewhere between 6 and 8 degrees and have to run premium, particularly when it’s above 90 out. The 93 I had didn’t like anything above 4 degrees. I believe factory is 3 degrees.

To me it seems like timing is the biggest thing overlooked when people have “not quite overheating” problems

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Check base timing, if it is turned way up the motor will run hotter. I have my 95 somewhere between 6 and 8 degrees and have to run premium, particularly when it’s above 90 out. The 93 I had didn’t like anything above 4 degrees. I believe factory is 3 degrees.

To me it seems like timing is the biggest thing overlooked when people have “not quite overheating” problems

Oddly enough, this was my pre-det issue. I was at like 18 degrees advanced (it was above the timing marks), got that corrected and it helped. I'm wondering if I have some sort of blockage in the block?

 

[peacesells63]

Oddly enough, this was my pre-det issue. I was at like 18 degrees advanced (it was above the timing marks), got that corrected and it helped. I'm wondering if I have some sort of blockage in the block?

ouch! I have never turned one up past 10, that was instant knock on my 95. What did you leave it at?

When I got my 95 it had green coolant in it. I did a change out when I got it and ran it that way for many years. About 2 years ago when I went through the system completely I decided to flush it. I used Prestone flush and was amazed at the crap that came out. Then I decided to try half distilled white vinegar and half distilled water, the first round there was about a half gallon of sludge that came out. I flushed it 5 more times, running it for about 20 mins with the system sealed up, each time getting less and less out. Then I ran a mixture of distilled water and baking soda to neutralize the acid. After that, a flush with distilled water and coolant fill. Been great ever since, but surprisingly I didn’t see any sort of improvement in system performance. My guess was someone switched it over to green without flushing first and sludged it up.

Some people will freak out at the thought of running 2.5% acid through your cooling system, but it worked great and no ill effects 2 years/10k miles later. I have done this on a few trucks now, never an issue and all original head gaskets. Might be worth a shot. You do have to pull the thermostat before flushing this way, and have to drain it immediately after shutting the truck off. The last few rounds I was pouring hot distilled water in the upper intake hose with the lower disconnected.

 

[medtro]

please report back. My 80 is parked for the summer as the AC just can't keep up and my temps slowly creep up.... even after the 30k cst blue hub, new rad, foam, new tstat, new water pump.... i ran out of ideas. and now my 100 is running around 213F....

You are hot!

 

[Somebodyelse5]

You are hot!

thanks In all seriousness, I am so frustrated chasing temperature issues while it's 120F out.... I'm just going to drive the diesel for the rest of the summer

 

[medtro]

thanks In all seriousness, I am so frustrated chasing temperature issues while it's 120F out.... I'm just going to drive the diesel for the rest of the summer

The other way to look at it is if you don't chase the problem now, then you may not be able to get to the bottom of it when it is not 120F out there.

 

[jkl72-40]

Ok so which hub it better the blue or the black? Or OEM? Then where to get the colored one? Whit's end??

 

[peacesells63]

Ok so which hub it better the blue or the black? Or OEM? Then where to get the colored one? Whit's end??

That gets complicated. Black hub has more shearing ridges than a new blue, but I had a NOS OEM toyota blue hub that had identical shearing ridges as the black hub. Wits end is a land tank fan clutch, which is a modern blue hub with something like 20k silicone in it and the thermostat adjusted.

I spent way too many hours screwing with fan clutches and never really found a combo I was happy with. Plus I lost my notes when I moved, so I have no idea what I have tried or whats in any of mine currently. If I were to do it again, i'd buy a blue hub from rock auto and put whatever silicone @richardlillard1 recommends.

 

[DSRTRDR]

or FCT-004 (blue hub) from Amazon and put in 25K - which is what is in our 80, and combined with a TYC radiator (also from Amazon), it hasn't reached anywhere close to 220 ever since living in Arizona (after February 2018)