Temp gauge adjustment??? (1 Viewer)

[midknightc3]

A few months ago my temperature gauge quite working (needle is completely bottomed out). Upon initial inspection I found the classic sending wire to be melted from getting too close to the exhaust manifold. Simple cut and splice later, no change. I have a Sniper, so was not too worried since I can look at the sniper screen. Replaced the temp sender (with a Napa, I know, but I was on the road and didn't have much choice) and again no change. Got home and did a much more substantial replacement of the sending wire all the way back to where it goes into the main harness along with a new plug at the end. Again no change. Took the dash apart today and hooked up the ohm meter and between the blade terminal at the sending unit and the back of the gauge and I have 0.3ohms, so the sending wire is good. All grounds on the plug (back of gauge) have 0.2ohms to known good ground under the dash. Took the gauge apart and it finally dawned on me that in others pictures of their gauges, even when stone cold, the temp needle isn't buried almost out of site.

Could a short when the sending wire melted have bent the (I don't know the proper names) elements inside the gauge? Can I bend them back, or do I just need to purchase a new gauge?

The needle as it sits now. It will rise ever so slightly at normal operating temperatures

Some photos of the internals incase someone knows what they are looking at...

And resistance across the gauge, if this means anything?

Thank you as always for any advice!
Clark

 

[OSS]

Your gauge may be fried but the napa replacement sender is more the suspect.
If you place a 60 to 70 ohm resistor between the gauge sender wire and body ground, the needle should move up a bit into the dial.

These temperature gauges for the 60 and 62 have been discontinued for over a decade, so no new ones are available anymore. A used one would be highly suspect.
If your gauge is fried, move on to an aftermarket temp gauge and senser or just use your Sniper.

 

[OSS]

On a gauge that’s working properly, if the sender wire is touched to body ground, the needle on the gauge should spike into the overheating range.

 

[midknightc3]

Resistor inline is definitely a possibility to try and save the factory gauge. It's nice having it there as a quick reference while driving, Sniper as a backup if I need a more accurate reading. I'm wondering if melting the wire caused a short to ground with enough current, which in turn bent the (I assume bimetal?) tabs that heat up and cause the needle to move? I do remember right before the needle dropped out of sight it did peg well past the overheat (I checked the Sniper and had normal readings and wasn't concerned). Probably too delicate to try bending back into place.

Thanks for the reply OSS, I had read the article with that picture in it, I'll have to go back and re-read it now with some possible intention of wiring the resistor in.

Clark

 

[OSS]

Connecting a resistor inline to ground is only a test to see if the gauge works. It’s not a fix.
High resistance = needle in the cold zone.
Low resistance = needle in the hot zone.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Your gauge may be fried but the napa replacement sender is more the suspect.
If you place a 60 to 70 ohm resistor between the gauge sender wire and body ground, the needle should move up a bit into the dial.

These temperature gauges for the 60 and 62 have been discontinued for over a decade, so no new ones are available anymore. A used one would be highly suspect.
If your gauge is fried, move on to an aftermarket temp gauge and senser or just use your Sniper.
View attachment 3313828

What is this witchcraft? A multimeter on your phone??? Are there leads that just plug into the phone's port??

 

[OSS]

What is this witchcraft?

Redfish iDVM.
The best DVM ever. It is truly awesome.
Wireless data display to your smartphone via Bluetooth.

Redfish Instruments

Next Generation, Award-winning iDVM Wireless Multimeter

redfishinstruments.com

 

[CruiserTrash]

This is amazing. Thanks for sharing.