Talk to me about your OME 80 series lift kit (1 Viewer)

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Feb 4, 2005
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Please lets keep this to OME kits only.

So you may have noticed I have been collecting FZJ80's. Well the plan is to build one for a DD and to look cool at the malls! I just sold one with a smallish lift and 305's on it. 850 heavy fronts, I think medium rears as it sits pretty level with a slight rake which I like. My plan is to add a ARB Bull Bar to the front and a Warn 12k winch. Stock wheels with 305's because I do not want to re-gear but I may go to a 315 on the stock wheels

I bought a used "j" spring lift, shocks and springs, thinking that with the added front end weight I would need it. Then I bought OME caster bushings, new drops for sway bars and bump stops. THEN a 80 came in the shop with "j" springs all around, spacers in the front and 305's. Thing looks like a roller skate! No bumpers to add weight to it. The front spacers looks to be about an inch and the rear still sits up higher than the front with no spacer.

I have read almost every thread about the OME lifts in general discussion and most post are old and most want you to run 37's. I even watched a video of a guy going 65 mph uphill in 2nd gear. I would rather not do that. I really do not want to worry about driveline vibrations, new driveshafts, caster plates, new track bars etc. If I do I may just sell this kit and buy a new one?????

Please give me your opinions based off what you have on your 80 now or have had in the past.

thanks in advance,
Rob
 

iptman

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My first 80 (black) had the 850/860 (heavy front/medium rear) springs with 255/85/16 KM2s which measured out to a little over 33 inches tall and 11 inches wide. I also ran with 1 1/4 inch wheel spacer to push the skinny tires out in line with the outside edge of the fender flares. With only sliders and rear bumper I thought the stance was just right with only a slight rake forward. My current 80 has the 850 heavy springs up front with a inch spacer and extra heavy 864 springs in the back running 315/75/16 KM3s. However, it has sliders, skid plate, front ARB, 12k, dual batteries, rear bumper and OEM aux tank. Full of fuel (38 gallons) and driver it weighs in right at 6300 lbs. Measurement from center of the hub to bottom edge of fender flare is 23 inches up front and 23.5 in the rear. Stock measurement is right at 20 inches. Both trucks had caster bushings installed trough the new hotness is the Delta VS radius arms to fix caster I don't have any drive line vibrations but did have plans to install the Delta VS panhard bracket to get the rear suspension geometry back in spec. There's a guy on Mud who makes a weld in kit for much less you might want to check out. I can't say whether I'd be able to tell a difference with the panhard bracket since my truck is at Ryan's getting it along with Dobinson IMS shocks and new springs installed. Most people who have the panhard bracket installed say it helps a lot.



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BlueCruiser84

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Nov 1, 2004
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My favorite OME was J front springs and medium rear springs or stock rear springs with a 1” spacer. Personally I like 80s to look “flat” front to rear. The way the fenders swallow tires you don’t need much, if any, lift for up to 35s. I pack and build very light compared to most 80 owners so your rear spring choice could vary.

80s are weird when it comes to a DC shaft and caster correction. I’ve had two 80s. One had vibrations no matter which lift springs it had in front - mediums, heavies, Js, and some random ass “homemade” springs that gave about 5.5” of lift. The other 80 had zero vibrations running all those same springs. 🤷‍♂️

Pick the height you like and sort out your angles/caster/vibration. Anything over 2ish inches makes 35s look small.
 
Joined
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Thanks Brian,

I ended up with J springs up front and Mediums in the rear. I did order a ARB front bumper and a Warn 12k winch. So I will see how it levels out. I also do not have an engine in it yet. I am struggling with putting a good running stock (169k) engine that recently had the head gasket replaced, in it. or going down the rabbit hole and sticking my GM 6.0L 4L80 combo in it...... it all comes down to gears or horsepower! Will it be worth more with the stock engine or the LS swap?? I am leaning towards the stock engine. It would be quicker to just put it back together.

This will be a DD and do not plan to wheel it, just Mall Crawl with it and look cool. That is why you have a triple locked FZJ80, lifted and outfitter right? It will also be a "shop" truck to display what we can do at work for those local.

My new garage is almost done so once I get my "shop" set back up I can really get moving on my projects, yes the stretched40 project still needs to get done!
 

bkfj40

Wishin i was in Wydaho
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After seeing @Cruiserhead05 's engine swap and how it performed, it's hard to turn down the thoughts of an engine swap. However, a running truck @matzell says a lot more for your company than one that has big plans and is sitting out back awaiting time for you to get to it. Button it up and swap the 6.0 into another cruiser
 
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Rixeyville, VA
You said to keep this on topic (OME springs) but then opened the engine swap can of worms....so I'll take the bait.

I personally think a clean, functioning 6.0 swap in this truck will be worth more than swapping in a used 1fz from another truck. That's just my opinion if you're talking resale value, as either scenario is without the original motor. Not trying to get off topic, but a lot of folks talk about swapping in a rebuilt or good used 1fz when theirs dies, as if it's completely plug-n-play and without any issues. I feel like I read about lots of bugs folks are working out when they do 1fz swaps.

To me, which one you choose would come down to timing and long-term plans:
  1. How quickly do you think you can realistically execute the swap?
  2. How quickly do you need the truck on the road?
  3. How long do you plan to own this truck?
With your mechanical know-how, I'd pursue the swap without question, especially if you could complete it by the time it gets warm outside(less than ~ 3 months). You could certainly have the truck on the road after a long weekend of swapping in a good 1fz, but 6 months from now when you're struggling to maintain 55mph going over I-64 you might be feeling differently.

If you plan to own the truck for several years and drive it semi-regularly, do the 6.0. Lastly, if the truck is going to be a display of your work for prospective customers, the 6.0 seems like it'd be more effective at doing that.
 
Joined
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Yeah yeah yeah...There is a reason there is not engine in it. I brought up the swap options because it may sit at different heights with different engines in it. I will get it home once the garage is ready to go and see what happens!
 

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