Taking tub to bare metal

[rsnellie]

I am starting to take my tub and all body parts down to bare metal. What steps should I take to prevent it from flash rusting? Is there something that I can spray on it as I go before I prime it? I plan on having a proffessional paint job done and want something that isn't going to affect the finish when I take it to them, but to save money I plan on doing most of the body work. Any input would be great. Btw anyone know of a cheap sandblaster in the central texas area?

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

When I did the rear 2/3 body tub swap on my FJ40 the donor tub had at least three layers of (different color) paint on it. I took it to a commercial boatyard and had them sand blast it for me - well worth the money for the hours of labor saved.

I was told not to worry about minor surface rust before painting; just wire brush well any obvious spots. "Spotcruiser" turned me on to the products sold by the Eastwood Co. I used a rust neutralizing primer called "Rust Encapsulator."

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...CT&iMainCat=1208&iSubCat=1208&iProductID=1130

But, it sounds like what you are looking for would be the Eastwood "Metal Wash":

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?...ODUCT&path=1,2,458,467,473&KickerID=39&KICKER

HTH.

Regards,

Alan
Seattle

 

[bandy rooster]

as long as your not doing this out in the elements i wouldn't be to worried about it... the only thing inside that occurs is minor surface rust... stuff a scratch pad could take off. unless your working in like florida were its less wet under water i would prob try to get the job done in a short time then get a can of self etching primer and spray alittle over everything as long as it doesn't conflict with your prof.'s choice of paint - (ie - some paints don't mix)

 

[Degnol]

I am starting to take my tub and all body parts down to bare metal. What steps should I take to prevent it from flash rusting? Is there something that I can spray on it as I go before I prime it? I plan on having a proffessional paint job done and want something that isn't going to affect the finish when I take it to them, but to save money I plan on doing most of the body work. Any input would be great. Btw anyone know of a cheap sandblaster in the central texas area?

I would use rattle cans of self etching primer to do what you want to do. As far as paint removal, I do whatever I can fit in my blast cabinet. For bigger stuff, I use a guy who uses "Starblast" a volcanic abrasive that is so sharp it can be used with as little as 50# air pressure therefore reducing the warping of sheetmetal.
He also owns a bodyshop and I asked him about the rattlecan self etch primer and he gave me the green light.

FWIW

Ed

 

[llih]

With a varible speed 7" grinder and 80 grit pads you can completely strip most cars in a day. The secret is to keep it moving and not use high speed. Be sure and use a dust mask. After stripping use some of zero rust's prep step on the bare metal or else self etching primer. The prep step mixes with water and you can spray it on with a hudson type bug sprayer. Do not rinse off, just let it dry. It will prep the surface for paint and prevent rust for several days. After drying you could then either use zero rust as a primer/surface finish if you wanted.

 

[lavarunner]

I paint for a living first off....

Strip it.. fine how ever yhou want.. (watch heat if your sanding..)

as for the flash rust.. DONT worry about it till you are ready to paint. I mean.. POR/ Rust built what ever are great UNDERCARRIDGE stuff.. I HATE owners who use that @&@&@&@& on tomething I gotta paint. That stuf sands like iron and creates more work..

steps for bare metal..

Rule one .. stick with one brand frome start to finish.. EVEN more important if you use rattle can stuff. NO DUPLICOLOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PPG..
Metal Prep solvent
Etch
Sealler (Dp 45- 90 depends on color....)
K-36 surfacer..