t-case slop how much is too much?

ken_79-fj40

 
 
 
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So I found the source of my geal oil leak on my cruiser. It was indeed spraying out the rear t-case output seal. And coating the entire underside of the truck with gear oil. When I was pulling the rear driveshaft and taking apart the e brake I noticed the rear output has about 1/16-1/8 inch of play in it. I got a speedi sleeve for the e-brake today, but i'm concerned about the play in the rear output flange. Am I rebuilding/ having my transfercase rebuilt this winter, or is this normal? Seems like every vendor sells t-case rebuild kits, but it seems most of the bearings are pressed in, and according to Jeff Zepp's site, the job looks like a pita without the special sst's.
 

CruisinGA

 
 
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I rebuild mine in a few nights after work at home without any special tools... just a fish scale (actually couldn't find my fish scale and had to do it by feel). By far the biggest PITA and time consuming part was cleaning/blasting the case.

Almost every cruiser tcase that has not been rebuilt, needs it.
 

cruiser_guy

 
 
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It's really not that hard. The only thing that may give you a tough time is pressed on bearings and in that case your local machine shop will likely do the press work for very little $$.
 
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The play you feel is a little much. It comes from worn bearings . The t-case output uses 2 tapered bearings just like a front hub they are just farther apart . One in front nosecone and other under rear housing. The preload is set by the shims or lack there of under the speedo housing. It sets just like setting the wheel bearing tension. The only other bearings on the output are the needles where the front and rear halves join. You just put in shims under rear housing until the rotational tension of the rear output ( with case in N ) is like 12 in. lbs.
 

ken_79-fj40

 
 
 
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So it sounds like i'm rebuilding the t-case this winter as well as the motor. I have friend with a bead blaster big enough to fit the case in, so that's not a problem. He's got a press too, so hopefully if I finally buy the chassis fsm I can do this myself. The haynes manual shows nothing. But it does have like 40 steps with no photos. It looks like the rear bearing is pressed into the case, and the shaft is pressed into the bearing. That alone is a bit intimidating. But hopefully the fsm will make some sense out of it.
 

honk

 
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ken_79-fj40 said:
So it sounds like i'm rebuilding the t-case this winter as well as the motor. I have friend with a bead blaster big enough to fit the case in, so that's not a problem. He's got a press too, so hopefully if I finally buy the chassis fsm I can do this myself. The haynes manual shows nothing. But it does have like 40 steps with no photos. It looks like the rear bearing is pressed into the case, and the shaft is pressed into the bearing. That alone is a bit intimidating. But hopefully the fsm will make some sense out of it.
Haynes has pretty much the same pictures as the FSM does, but not as clear. The T/C is a simple rebuild, really it is! I thought the worst of it was getting the two side thrust bushings to stick in place while I slid the idler gearset into the case. You can pound out the bearings if you're careful - they provide a notch for a slim driver to push out the races. A press is better, of course.
 

Trollhole

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I second the idler gear thrust washers. I have found that taking out the plug and fitting a socket in there will hold the thrust washer in place. When you do the rebuild make sure you buy all gaskets and seals as well as all bearings and idler shaft.

Also make sure you replace the bushings for the high and low output gears. You need a press for this otherwise you will screw the brass bushings up and make sure the oil passages are lined up.
 

65swb45

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I cringed when I read your post. You've got that much play and you're gonna wait to rebuild it til WHEN? The gears don't take kindly to being run eccentrically, and you are changing the wear pattern on the teeth EVERY DAY YOU DRIVE IT LIKE THAT! :eek: Wait long enough and you will be buying another set of gears for it as well!

Like CruisinGA said, the biggest PITA is just the cleaning. The guys on this board are SO WELL VERSED in this job, they'll make it seem like a 1 :banana: job. Don't put it off. :frown:
 

ken_79-fj40

 
 
 
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Mark, when I say I am putting it off until this winter it's because I don't have the money, but i'm not driving the truck anyway. I was planning on pulling the motor in January to rebuild it, so the case will be out anyway. Maybe if the guy who's interested in my tbi 350 comes up with some cash i'll get to it sooner. I am going to put it back together this weekend, but more just so I can move it around. It's parked on the wrong side of the shop, and I have to work on my plow truck this weekend. I was only planning on maybe another hundred miles before putting it up for the winter. But perhaps i'll cancel the insurance on it early this year, I usually put it away for the winter at the end of november when they start salting the roads here in NH. I will take your advice though, it's simply not worth having to buy any gears if I don't have to. At least I didn't have any chunks come out when I drained it!
 
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