T-Case filler bolt rounded off, now what? (1 Viewer)

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Woody P
Trying to change the transfer case fluid today and the fill bolt was rounded off a little by PO, and I made it worse. Son of a:censor: !

Went to sears to try to get the specialty tool for rounded bolt removal, but they dont carry it in 15/16, either does Lowes or Advance auto or Auto Zone.

I checked out the kit where you can drill out a hole at tap in a bit, how did this work out for any of you who have tried this? I don't want to make things worse. I know that these rounded off bolt sockets are out there some where, but where?

With out bringing it into a shop what are my other options?
I am glad I didn't empty the oil first then figure this out.
 
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i believe there is some information here on welding something to the bolt to remove it....try to search the topic

osagecruiser
 

2mbb

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You're at the point where you need to get a new one anyway, so:

(1) six point socket (if it's not too rounded)
(2) vice grips
(3) hammer & chisel
 
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osagecruiser said:
i believe there is some information here on welding something to the bolt to remove it....try to search the topic

osagecruiser

I have actually had that done for tire locks that I didn't have the key for, works pretty well. That is definately an option, but I would rather get r dun in the driveway if possible.

Dusty 66Pipe Wrench and git a new plug !


I will try that, but it seems like the bolt head is so damn thin that there is not going to be much to bite into. Thanks
 
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slot it with a grinder and use the biggest strait-slot you can find. if you have a hand impact driver use that to start it (the kind you hit with a hammer)
good luck, carl
 
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I have always had good luck with a chisel and hammer, just bite into the outer edge of the plug so you get the most leverage to spin it. Be careful if you use a impact driver the case can be brittle.
 

gladly

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ditto on the hammer and chisel if it's really fawked, but usually if you clamp on your second best pair of visegrips in the big teeth in the rounded part of the jaw, then pull, it'll move, if not give it a tap with the BFH, I suppose the advice to get a new plug afterwards is good, but after drilling and tapping my plug for the xfer-tranny return line once, I didn't want to go through it again, so I continue to use vise grips, really after you break the 20 year seal, it turn pretty easy later on
note: when tapping the plug to 1/2 inch, if it won't turn with a ratchet, just work it back and forth until it does, do not chuck the tap into a 1/2 hp, 1/2in drill and give'er, it will hurt you! learn from my mistakes!
 
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there is a huge thread on this in the tech section here if you need more ideas, might search for it...

save yourself some cost and hassel and special tool needs on this one as I had the same issue and this worked perfect... take a file or dremmel and square/rectangle off (make 2 nice long flat sides at least) the head of the bolt and then you have a square/rectanlge head to get superb even pressure purchase on. then off she came with an adjustable wrench and I did use a 1' breaker bar just to be safe to get good even torque. seems like other ideas are way more difficult than this simple one.

then get some of those hex plugs (SOR sells them)
 
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you know, I tried the pipe wrench thing with a good size pipe wrench from a plumber neighbor..... no dice. that head is just too small to grip with a pipe wrench in my case..... but my idea above worked like a champ first time.
 
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wantatlc said:
you know, I tried the pipe wrench thing with a good size pipe wrench from a plumber neighbor..... no dice. that head is just too small to grip with a pipe wrench in my case..... but my idea above worked like a champ first time.

2mbb, -" Vice grips" .

Get a med sized one, clamp on tight and tap the vice grip handles with a hammer-in the direction you want it to turn.
 
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I tried vice grips also..a huge pair actually and pounding with hammer just is such a quick movement, vice grips will further tear up bolt head or pop off. this is why the long breaker bar is a nice, smooth, even torque with extra leverage. finesse.
 
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wantatlc said:
I tried vice grips also..a huge pair actually and pounding with hammer just is such a quick movement, vice grips will further tear up bolt head or pop off. this is why the long breaker bar is a nice, smooth, even torque with extra leverage. finesse.

Yes, I have found that to be so, what worked best for myself . Was to use sharp raps, not so much like you use a hammer to put a dent in something, but just to give something a little nudge. Light taps up to but not exceding the point where the aluminum material on the drain plug just scrapes off.

Also the vice grips are going to damage the nut further- you have to bite down into the soft aluminum material with the teeth of vice grip. Or it will slip too easy.

Anyway thats pretty much all I have, everthing else is going to be more extreme.
 

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What Land Cruiser case uses an Aluminum fill plug?
 
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Poser said:
What Land Cruiser case uses an Aluminum fill plug?


Oh I may have the material composition wrong, but the fix is the same.
And the last time I dealt with this the plug did get buggered up from the teeth on the jaws of the vice grips.

But if you think this more than a miniscule detail, post up .
 
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update:

I finally got it off, using a pipe wrench with an extender, got a dislocated pinkie in the process but I OWN THAT B!T@H now.

What a pain in the A$$, turns out the fluid was pretty clean as well as the mag plug. Better safe than sorry though.

Once again IH8MUD has saved the day, thanks guys. You all have been a great help since owning this magnificint machine.
 
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1phrogguy said:
Once again IH8MUD has saved the day, thanks guys. You all have been a great help since owning this magnificint machine.

+1.....ain't that the truth, this place has helped me more than any 1 person, book, website, manual, car store dude, guess.

now get some of those hex head plugs for all your fluid holes...

AllenHead.jpg


(oh, and be sure to get the hex wrench as well :) )
 

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