T-Case E-Brake (1 Viewer)

[Tapage]

Since My fab skills are limited and don't have a welder at home at the moment .. I putting this on my wish list to come true this year ..

I know few are installed and running .. just wonder to know how they are performing wet / muddy .. dunno if worth putting a cross post with the 40 section ..

http://www.tsmmfg.com/4066mb3.html

all comments are appreciated ..

 

[Elbert]

Seem to be somewhat of mixed results from what I've read...as far as holding ability. I know its better than no brake, but I'm unsure if it will hold a 60 on a steep slope without issue...comparable to stock brake setup.

 

[Tapage]

Need to mention this one it's the " new " model .. I know there is a previous one that didn't worth the hassle ..

 

[KLF]

I have an ancient (~2000) 1st generation All-Pro one on my mini. It looks exactly like the one they advertise, I bet it's the same model:

http://www.tsmmfg.com/4067.html

I've had to remove it and repaint it twice now. It's currently apart, while my truck is under restoration. This time I sand blasted all the parts, so I'm hoping the paint lasts longer. I had to buy a new brake caliper and rotor, the original ones were too rusty to salvage. I will say it's a real PITA to install, the bolts are hard to get to, especially the ones for the driveshaft. Installation requires you pulling off the output flange, popping the dust shield off, slipping the rotor on, then re-installing. Reaching the driveshaft bolts on the back side of the rotor is a royal pain, so this time I'm gonna tack weld the bolts to the rotor before I install it. The brake caliper is supposedly from a golf cart application.

I will say that once it's installed and properly adjusted, it works very well. Takes less "yank" on the e-brake handle to hold the truck still. BUT... if one wheel loses traction or is off the ground and you have an open diff, it is no longer an e-brake.

Check with your local inspection laws, I've had to argue with inspectors that it's legal. One tried to flunk me because it wasn't a factory e-brake.

IMO it's really the best option if you want to install RDB.

 

[Tapage]

thanks KLF believe this one ( for mini ) it's like this one ( previous model )

here is the link ..

http://www.tsmmfg.com/4066.html

 

[Elbert]

I was thinking of going rear disks at some point, but for now that something off in the future. I think this may be your only reasonable alternative (Tsmmfg). Other options would be use a caliper with built in parking brake or hydraulic based line lock, all of which seem to have their own issues in my view.

Call me crazy but would be nice to have a 14 bolt GM pickup axle assembly with the parking brakes built in...of course thats $$ and non toyota for those that care, say something out of a 07 2500 HD.

 

[ntsqd]

If a guy was really into doing his own RDB I'd have a serious look at those used under late model Yukon's and similar. The caliper bracket carries the drum type p-brake, the rotors are already 6 lug, and the parts should be pretty current for a quite awhile. The calipers may be a bit big on piston area for good un-adjusted balance, but a prop valve or delay valve may be enough to get it right without a huge compromise.

 

[KLF]

Other options would be use a caliper with built in parking brake...

I have yet to see an install of those Caddy (or other) calipers with built-in ebrake levers really work well.

hydraulic based line lock

Not an e-brake. Just a temporary parking brake.

If you really want a nice rear axle with RDB and integrated e-brake, swap in an 80-series FF axle. Get one with an e-locker while you're at it.

 

[Elbert]

I agree that a line lock or however they spell it is not an "E" brake...it would be better than nothing is where I would list it.

Also agree an FJ80 axle would be a good alternative too.

I have yet to see an install of those Caddy (or other) calipers with built-in ebrake levers really work well.



Not an e-brake. Just a temporary parking brake.

If you really want a nice rear axle with RDB and integrated e-brake, swap in an 80-series FF axle. Get one with an e-locker while you're at it.

 

[Land Cruiser Rob]

I put this exact ebarke on my 60 about a year ago. I needed something after going to rear disc brakes. The ebarke performs very poorly, it will not hold the truck on anything over a very slight incline. All linkages moving freely and adjusted properly. I would not recommend this kit.

 

[Tapage]

80 Series rear would be ideal . .. perfect not only coz the e-brake system, but also coz that would be a nice excuse to do rear coils and 4 link .. then that would open another door to not use Tencha for rest of this year .. :lmao:

yup .. I'm slow worker ..

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I have yet to see an install of those Caddy (or other) calipers with built-in ebrake levers really work well.



Not an e-brake. Just a temporary parking brake.

If you really want a nice rear axle with RDB and integrated e-brake, swap in an 80-series FF axle. Get one with an e-locker while you're at it.

X3 plus full floating...

 

[KLF]

If you are interested in doing the 80 axle swap, look up "fogblanket" on here, I know he did this on his FJ62 several years ago, I re-geared the locker for him. He did have some issues, but he eventually got it all worked out. The 80 diff is not as offset, for instance. He kept leaf springs, which may be necessary. The FJ62 frame is not built for coils, it would take a LOT of gusseting to go that route.

He used to hang out in the FJ45LV section a lot, until he wrecked Wilma this spring. Not sure if he's still active on MUD.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

If you are interested in doing the 80 axle swap, look up "fogblanket" on here, I know he did this on his FJ62 several years ago, I re-geared the locker for him. He did have some issues, but he eventually got it all worked out. The 80 diff is not as offset, for instance. He kept leaf springs, which may be necessary. The FJ62 frame is not built for coils, it would take a LOT of gusseting to go that route.

He used to hang out in the FJ45LV section a lot, until he wrecked Wilma this spring. Not sure if he's still active on MUD.

mine is leaf sprung under cut 3 1/8" on the right side, cut to length nitro shelf kept locker side axle shaft for a net width of 59 7/8" WMS to WMS. coils were gunna be too much work. the brakes are great. the new width puts the diff back where it should be, altho I have seen reports of people using the full width almost centered diff on xJ6X chassis without any issues, and I will also state that if I were to do it again, I'd prolly keep the extra width and make up for it with some wheels of the right backspacing...the E brake is grrr8!

 

[Tapage]

If doing 80 series rear .. position of 3rd would not worry me. Coil buckets will be under frame and would adjust lowers .. than just link brackets ..

I know I know .. not that easy at it sounds ( writes ) but can be done .. or maybe I would move straight on the Coilover concept ..

Still not there yet .. that's why I'm seen this t-case e-brake option ..

 

[lcwizard]

The 80 rear axle matches up well with a widened 60 front. i used the 2 3/4 spacers I make to widen the front 60 housing and used an 80 rear....in a 40.

 

[Tinker]

Hi guys,
Just jumping back in preparing for the yet undone axle/brake/suspension upgrade on the '84.

I was the guinea pig for TSM's Tcase ebrake a few years ago & tested the hill holding ability on my '84 (5.7+4L60E) vs. my stock '83 (rear brakes in good condition): TSM's Tcase ebrake clearly outperformed stock on a 30-45 deg slope.

Next I tried "emergency" stops on pavement from about 25mph. Definitely rougher than hydraulics but acceptable.

 

[Tapage]

those are good news .. got any pics .. ?

Tire size on both .. ( believe it's a part of the deal )