T-Boned and not a steak! Any recommendations? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 10, 2023
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Location
Lowcountry, SC
Had the unfortunate experience last night of getting T-boned going through an intersections. Other driver was hauling as they ran the red light so all in all, just grateful the LC was a beast and absorbed the brunt. That said, she looks bad. Anyone dealt with this? The other driver is at fault, so I'll be working with their insurance. My concern is really getting my value out of it. It's a 2020 and had just at 20k miles on it, so the value for it is high right now. Unless anyone has a great replacement.....

Sad day.

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Side airbags Did not go off?
 
Having worked at Toyota in sales the value of your 200 has gone up especially with only 20K on it. If they give you comps to compare to make sure they are local rigs not something that is across the country and the exact same condition yours was prior to their client hitting you.

Use some of the 200s that are listed here on the classified section as comps to your benefit.

A co-worked was hit and the at faults insurance company gave him comps of vehicles not in the same condition, he countered and the insurance company upped their offer by 10K.
 
Call the local Porsche dealer and ask who does their body work. If you are feeling spicy do the same for Ferrari. Don’t be surprised if that shop won’t do business with s***ty companies like State Farm, at which point the battle starts.

The body repair business is a race to the bottom but there are still places out there doing great work. Put in the effort to find one of those. It’ll be worth it.
 
Had the unfortunate experience last night of getting T-boned going through an intersections. Other driver was hauling as they ran the red light so all in all, just grateful the LC was a beast and absorbed the brunt. That said, she looks bad. Anyone dealt with this? The other driver is at fault, so I'll be working with their insurance. My concern is really getting my value out of it. It's a 2020 and had just at 20k miles on it, so the value for it is high right now. Unless anyone has a great replacement.....

Sad day.

View attachment 3335748
This sucks man. I'm glad you're ok. After dealing with insurance for months for another late model car, I can say you are likely in for quite a long time of waiting in the weeks/months ahead. Godspeed.
 
Get the cash and run away from that truck!
I disagree. In a perfect world it wouldn’t have been hit at all but that looks totally repairable. The knuckle or ball joint are broken for sure, but that would absorb some of the energy before being transmitted to the frame. And as for the frame.. one of the strongest out there.

To be able to keep a low-mile 200 that I know the history of with only this damage would outweigh the impulse to bail, personally.

Edit: assuming diminished value is paid out. But if the plan is to keep the vehicle forever even that might not break a deal for me.
 
My mom had a the big Cadillac Eldorado (1500 miles) she was hit right on the front tire by a pick-up going about 45, had the car fixed it was nothing but problems until they sold it two years later, if you remember those cars were front wheel drive.
 
Tough situation. Personally I’d fight for the best value you can get and walk, but that’s just me.
 
It all depends on the damage. You need a good shop to take a look first. Otherwise, we just speculate here.
It *looks* like the hit was on the wheel. If that is actually the case and there is no damage to the passenger cabine structure then this is a keeper. Door, quarter panel and bumper are going to be replaced with new parts. You can make a stink about the rear door to be replaced to on such a low miles truck. Hood is not clear if it has any damage.
Wheel, suspension, drive axle will need to be replaced even if they look Ok. Same for the headlight and fog light, otherwise you risk condensation later.
Radiator will need careful inspection or just replacement to be sure. It is plastic and may leak later on.

The big question is the damage to the passenger cabin structure and the front frame if any.
 
Norton and Richardson in summerville does good work. I got whacked in a garage downtown 6 months ago and going in next month for minor door body work and paint. They were scheduling at least 6 months out though back then. Good luck and hope you have a much quicker turnaround if decide to fix.
 
Man, that sucks. I just got T-boned a month ago…similar 2020 HE with 22k on it, babied it so far.
I looked up Lexus certified collision places & luckily they are also Toyota certified. Went thru my own insurance to go after the other company. I got hit in the rear drivers side door. They’ve done some things like just ordering complete doors, front and rear/ even the inside door card and everything, completely new. The original insurance co. estimator had door shells and just metalwork on the front door. It’s not my daily/ so I encouraged them to do it right even if it takes time. With the other insurance covering - my own insurance folks have been good about okaying all the work. I think that makes it harder for the other drivers insurance to try and deny things. And it’ll be absolutely OEM.

Above $20k already.

Is your state a right to choose your shop state?
 
My 200 once had almost exactly the same damage when it still belonged to my buddy. His little brother was hit on the left side like that, and additionally hit in the rear like that.
You will definitely have to redo the suspension with everything that belongs to it, the fender must bulge (and that in the rough way, crease-free is no longer but eg with me you see nothing more), on the door you will always see something but even that only little if it is done well.
The bumper is junk but this is now the opportunity to get you a steel or aluminum with a winch.
Maybe I’ll find the pictures
 
When you get smacked like that and bend in the LCA and other pretty stout pieces, you might have some frame damage. That is where you really need a good repair guy that you trust. Definitely hold tough for fair market value and/or diminished value going forward if you fix.

My buddy's son just got hit like that in his Tundra and it had frame damage. Need a good adjuster too.
 
Norton and Richardson in summerville does good work. I got whacked in a garage downtown 6 months ago and going in next month for minor door body work and paint. They were scheduling at least 6 months out though back then. Good luck and hope you have a much quicker turnaround if decide to fix.
Oh man, thanks for the feedback, good to have a lowcountry fellow on here.. Giving them a call.
 
Appreciate all the input and advice, will be interesting.. Geico is the insurance co of the guy at fault, I've not been able to find a shop that will 1. Take Geico or 2. Doesn't have a 3 month wait, or 3. Won't take a car at all that isn't drivable.

I guess we will see what Geico says as they are supposed to inspect this week. The other interesting thing, which is good I suppose for us all, LC200's aren't dropping in price! I can't find one for what I bought this one for!
 
You probably have a lot better insurance than that guy. You should also investigate the option of using your insurance. You may have to pay the deductible upfront before they recover the costs from the other guy's insurance.
I did this in the past when the at fault party insurance was trying to play games.
 
Having worked at Toyota in sales the value of your 200 has gone up especially with only 20K on it. If they give you comps to compare to make sure they are local rigs not something that is across the country and the exact same condition yours was prior to their client hitting you.

Use some of the 200s that are listed here on the classified section as comps to your benefit.

A co-worked was hit and the at faults insurance company gave him comps of vehicles not in the same condition, he countered and the insurance company upped their offer by 10K.
I’ll add to this by saying make sure the comps are done from the get go as recommended by Scott. Do not allow them to do the comps and then work from there; this sets an artificially low base from which they will try to work.
 

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