T boned '00 LX470, looking for repair shops in Denver. (1 Viewer)

[HStacks]

As the title says, I got t-boned in my (new to me) 2000 LX470 while driving home this evening. No injuries -thankfully- but now I'm looking for a Denver area repair shop that will do the right work, not just the fast work.

I'll save you the gory photos until the insurance investigation wraps up, but I'll just say this: in a fight between a Jetta and a 100 Series, there is no contest.

Passenger doors took the most of the hit and are likely toast, with damage extending to the quarter panels as well. It's on 33's with a 2" OME lift so the frame took a beating too. It still starts, drives, and stops and rode fine on the way home, but it will definitely need some work.

Any insights are massively appreciated!

 

[Njck22]

Insurance is going to total it out. Start looking for a rust free one. Market is a little softer these days.

 

[3_puppies]

X2 most likely the insurance company will try to pay you out.
now the hard part will be getting a fair price from them.

but without pics, it's just a guess.

 

[HStacks]

Here's hoping it doesn't get totalled out, I spent a year looking for this vehicle and finally found it a month ago.

Here's the sadness.

 

[3_puppies]

is there new damage by the taillight?
it doesn't look great for getting it repaired.
both doors, rocker panel, rear quarter panel repair

was it their fault?
do they have insurance?
do you have full coverage?

 

[HStacks]

Tail light dent was existing
100% their fault - speeding in a turn only lane.
I'm fully covered
Other party is on parents insurance...

Got an estimate booked for later today.

Any idea how they factor aftermarket parts into that? bumper, winch, lights. All undamaged.

 

[3_puppies]

Tail light dent was existing
100% their fault - speeding in a turn only lane.
I'm fully covered
Other party is on parents insurance...

Got an estimate booked for later today.

Any idea how they factor aftermarket parts into that? bumper, winch, lights. All undamaged.

there has been other threads similar to this in the last 1-2 years

I won't speculate on what to do, but I will say what I did years ago. Just put new tires on our 4Runner. wife smacked a deer at highway speed. full coverage. I went thru line by line what our rig was specked at from Toyota to what my company said I had. There were 3 or 4 mistakes that added to a higher amount for me. I asked about the brand new tires, I was told there is no money added for them. I asked about swapping them out and was told as long as the tires held air I was good. I had friends at a tire shop who removed my new tires and installed some old take offs, mostly bald and they held air, didn't need to have them balanced. I ended up selling the tires to an aquaintance for a little less than I bought them for.

I've got a few rigs so not having 1 didn't bother me and I could stretch out the time and not be in a rush to settle things.

Main thing is don't get rushed, they will want to settle quickly. You having full coverage will help. You should be able to get a rental car covered if needed.

 

[HStacks]

I'll dive through the older threads that cover it.

Thanks for the input!

 

[Njck22]

If the quarter panel needs replacement, or the pillars, it's a done deal. Maybe when these trucks were new at $55k it would be viable to drill that many spot welds. otherwise, no way. Sorry.

 

[3_puppies]

any update?

 

[HStacks]

As predicted, insurance totaled the vehicle. Not surprising as the b-pillar was damaged, the frame took a beating, and the long body support below the doors (whatever its called) blew apart.

In CO, fair market value is what they would get for a similar, undamaged vehicle from a dealer, but they need to come out and do an appraisal first. The adjuster said they would consider the value of aftermarket parts IF I had receipts, -which I don't - so I will likely swap them for used stock, unless the cost to buy it back in its entirety is less than that of the stock parts. We will see how it all shakes out.

Luckily I'm on the road for the next two weeks so its all on pause until I'm home. Plenty of time to do more research and charge the impact driver.

Thanks for all your input!

 

[2001LC]

Whereas when dealing with your insurance company, you must list parts/build values in advance and pay an extra premium. You do not have to in a claim in advance, against another. The proof you have the parts/build, is in the vehicle!

If wanting to cash out or build a case (high value) to not total: I'd get pictures of every aftermarket part. Also build a list of the parts using manufacture listed prices. Slee and other 4x4 build shops can be a source for install labor cost. Use NADA excellent Dealership Denver value and comparable listing asking prices. Add all $$ together and pound on the table, if they're offer lower.

If wanting to buy back after being total. You want the lowest value, with highest repair estimate. Insurance adjusters have an app to give "market" based on auction sales for totaled. They credit value, deduct repair est and the difference is the buy back. To this end; Bradford auto body shop and "I think" Vintage Autoworks & Collision both in littleton, come in with high estimates. There's is also a lot around Santa Fe & Bellevue, that tend to give lower estimates. Then you can part out ( I've cash buyers for engine, FL fender and more parts today) or have it repaired.

 

[HStacks]

Thats a huge help, thanks!