Synthetic in a 2H (1 Viewer)

[GregFrench]

I searched and found too much info and am having a time sorting it out. I have a basic question. I would like to start running synthetic oil in my 2H. I have always used Mobil 1, but have never owned a diesel. Is this oil OK to use? What weight is reccommended?

Also, do I need to use a special filter when using synthetic? If so, what is reccommended?

Looking for an easy answer here. Thanks

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

I searched and found too much info and am having a time sorting it out. I have a basic question. I would like to start running synthetic oil in my 2H. I have always used Mobil 1, but have never owned a diesel. Is this oil OK to use? What weight is reccommended?

Also, do I need to use a special filter when using synthetic? If so, what is reccommended?

Looking for an easy answer here. Thanks

I run synthetics in my 2H (Amsoil diesel oil).
No need for a special filter.
The weight is 5-40, I think. But what is really important is that you get oil designed for a diesel engine, since it has more detergent in it. Mobil 1 for diesel is certainly a good oil.

j

 

[sisukid1975]

If you want a synthetic diesel oil, get the AMSOIL diesel or Mobil Delvac 1. Thye both have the requisite diesel packs....

i've run into problems putting synthetic in high mileage engines that have been running regular petroleum oil for a long time. Seems when you switch, they develop leaks that wee not there before....

May not happen to you, but it's happened to me both times I've done it.

 

[bigbrowndog]

Toyota specified Castrol RX Super for the 2H.

Oils ain’t Oils’

Castrol RX SUPER

* Diesel engine oil , low ash ... 15w-40 .... CI-4
* Suits latest American heavy duty diesels....
* Excellent soot handing
* Oil consumption controll
* Engine wear control benefits..


Castrol_rx_super oil
However the local engine builders here advise using a 20w 50 oil after the 2H has done more than 200,000 ks. My opinion on the synthetic is with the large amount of ash/soot that gets into the oil of a 2H it is better changed more frequently than prolonging the change by using synthetic.Maybe if your 2H is the old model with the centrifical seperator on top of the filter this would be help to keep it clean and justify the change to synthetic.

 

[David*BJ70]

i've run into problems putting synthetic in high mileage engines that have been running regular petroleum oil for a long time. Seems when you switch, they develop leaks that wee not there before....

Leaks !! Where ??

This is strange. First time I read that ? Someone know why ? Any opinion ?

I switch to synthetic on my first oil change without problem. But your case interest me... I just want to know more about that possible problem.

 

[bigbrowndog]

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

[Greg_B]

My opinion on the synthetic is with the large amount of ash/soot that gets into the oil of a 2H it is better changed more frequently than prolonging the change by using synthetic.

My thinking too, with the 3B IDI engine as well.

The numbers for the 13BT with synth and 10,000kms are great so far. I would like to have more data from 1HD-T and 12HT owners. I've switched Petras 12HT to synth, and will be getting it tested soon, as the fall change time is upon us.

Another great site with tonnes of info: http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

hth's

gb

 

[vlinker]

My 2H has Delo 400 5-40 synthetic in it and it's getting to be oil change time. I haven't noticed any leaks. I'm planning to stick with the Delo. If i was in South Carolina instead of Alaska, I would probably run the Delo 400 15-40 Multigrade (a non-synthetic).

 

[sisukid1975]

Leaks !! Where ??

This is strange. First time I read that ? Someone know why ? Any opinion ?

I switch to synthetic on my first oil change without problem. But your case interest me... I just want to know more about that possible problem.

Valve cover gasket, and the lifter/cam galley cover. Started leaking like a sieve.

Both engines were very high mileage (like over 300,000 miles), and someone told me that over time, gummed-up oil and soot actually tends to work its way into gaps in between the gaskets and act as something of a seal. Then, when you switch over to synthetic (when I did, the first oil change I had stuff that looked like coffee grounds that they synthetic had cleaned out of the engine) the synthetic cleans that crap up, thus removing that crud from your old, brittle and cracked gaskets, which allows them to leak more readily.

DOn't know if the explantion is true, but it makes sense, and it meshed with my experience.

Now in newer engines I've switched to synthetic, leaking has not been an issue. FOr instance, my 75,000 mile 2UZ-FE switched over without a problem.

 

[Greg_B]

If i was in South Carolina instead of Alaska, I would probably run the Delo 400 15-40 Multigrade (a non-synthetic).

A great dino oil that consistantly places at the top when results of VOA are compared...at least at the bobistheoilguy site.

gb

 

[GregFrench]

Ok. So maybe I shouldn't switch from dino?
The reason I use it in my other vehicles is the way it cleans up the insides of the engine. IMO, a clean engine is a happy engine and will last longer. I keep changing at 3000mi intervals when I use it.
Never had a diesel, though, so was curious.
Guess I'll try the Castrol RX Super.

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

I think the main point is that IF using synthetic creates some leaks somwhere then the engine needed attention anyways!!! Other than cost, and that can be mitigated out by going to longer drain intervals, there is NOTHING negative about moving to an all synthetic oil. I use Amsoil Heavy Duty Synthetic oil. If you also use a bypass oil filter you can safely move to 15000+ mile oil change intervals. This has been born out many many times via oil analysis. use either amsoil or Mobil oils.