Switched back to OEM Wheels and this happened.... (1 Viewer)

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Yes. The later wheels (post 94) ONLY use the washer style lug nuts. Anything else is UNSAFE.
 
Just to be real clear, you shouldn't use the acorn style nuts with the OEM wheels that you have installed. You need to find the straight shanked lug nuts as shown in the right side of the post mmajsw posted.
Just so you don't worry about me, my wheels have the taper in them like the ones on the left which take the acorns. Thanks for checking on me though.
 
Yes. The later wheels (post 94) ONLY use the washer style lug nuts. Anything else is UNSAFE.
Safety is my number one concern. My wheels have the little taper in them like those shown on the left in the drawing at the beginning of this of thread.
I have even tried the straight lug nuts with the washers and they don't bottom out, so I feel absolutely certain that I have the right lug nuts for those Wheels. I'm not trying to discourage you from keeping me safe however so please follow up if you feel the need to!
 
Good work folks...

:cheers:
 
Safety is my number one concern. My wheels have the little taper in them like those shown on the left in the drawing at the beginning of this of thread.
I have even tried the straight lug nuts with the washers and they don't bottom out, so I feel absolutely certain that I have the right lug nuts for those Wheels. I'm not trying to discourage you from keeping me safe however so please follow up if you feel the need to!

Well, if you are really using '96 wheels, as you claim, you need the flat style lug nuts with the washer. The tapered ones only match up with the earlier wheels or tapered steel wheels. Maybe someone swapped early wheels on to the 96, but if not, you're running the wrong style lug nuts.
 
Just FYI.....

I have a 96 that was built in 8/95. It came with tapered hole wheels for the acorn style nuts.

The PO hit a guardrail and jacked up one or two rims.

When i bought it had three chrome wheels and two plain aluminum.

75k miles later, I just discovered that ONE of the plain aluminum wheels is a shank hole wheel. I've been running it with acorn nuts on it the entire time.

I just bought a couple more acorn nuts wheels to swap out the peeling Chrome's and discovered this.

Now I have 3 acorn plain aluminum, one shank hole plain aluminum and one acorn peeling chrome......

I have a set of 4 Lexus wheels sandblasted and ready to paint sitting in the garage.

Eventually, I will have a matching set of 5.
 
Before bolting it back together clean up the surfaces with a wire brush and throw some anti seize on there. It doesn't take a ton, just apply some dabs and smooth around with a paper towel. You'll be glad when you have to remove the wheel next time .
 
I'm not sure I agree with the OP about the setup being safe. I believe there is a very small taper in my 97's wheels which helps the washer style lugnut enter the hole but nothing more. Using acorn type lugnuts would definitely be unsafe on my truck. He couldn't identify spacers so others reading this should not take the advice as acceptable for safety.
 
Either way, you need to paint the “D” windows in your wheels gray to be correct for a 40th!
 
Thanks everybody for double checking on the Lugnuts. I do have a spare set of Lugs with washers and will one last time go out and remove an acorn and see if the washer Lugnuts will tighten down. If not then I'll know that it is a set of wheels off an older 80 Series.
 
Let us know what you have. If you have one with tapered seats and need one with straight shank holes, maybe we could trade one.
 
I remember that rig for sale in the southeast Missouri Craigslist. I spoke with the owner several times but he never wanted to budge on price or give to much maintenance info so I walked. I hope you had better luck thank did. Good looking rig though. Congrats
 
I remember that rig for sale in the southeast Missouri Craigslist. I spoke with the owner several times but he never wanted to budge on price or give to much maintenance info so I walked. I hope you had better luck thank did. Good looking rig though. Congrats
That is the one, I went over to Cape Girardeau to pick it up. I did real well on the price but I had to put a new head gasket on as it turns out. He had just replaced the head gasket only thing is it still had a miss in it. And whoever changed the head gasket dropped an intake manifold alignment dowel down into cylinder number four. That is what was causing the mess and I had to take the head off to find it! I have an extensive right up on the repair of this vehicle in a different thread under my ReCruiser name in this forum. Take a look at it if you want a good want laugh!
 
That is the one, I went over to Cape Girardeau to pick it up. I did real well on the price but I had to put a new head gasket on as it turns out. He had just replaced the head gasket only thing is it still had a miss in it. And whoever changed the head gasket dropped an intake manifold alignment dowel down into cylinder number four. That is what was causing the mess and I had to take the head off to find it! I have an extensive right up on the repair of this vehicle in a different thread under my ReCruiser name in this forum. Take a look at it if you want a good want laugh!


I think I'll take a look. Can never huave to many laughs.
 
Okay I did pop an acorn lug nut off and try a lug nut with washer on it and it would not seat so I am convinced that the acorn lug nuts are the correct nuts for these wheels. Thanks for everybody looking out for me on this.
 
Okay I did pop an acorn lug nut off and try a lug nut with washer on it and it would not seat so I am convinced that the acorn lug nuts are the correct nuts for these wheels. Thanks for everybody looking out for me on this.

So, the bottom line is that your 96 parts rig PROBABLY did NOT have the ORIGINAL wheels on it?
 
The 80 is now old enough that stud breakages whilst not common (yet), incidents are starting to show up.

You often find the spacers were fitted to stop fouling on lock, check the steering stops have not been messed with.

Regards

Dave
 

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