Sway bar upgrade - any ideas? (1 Viewer)

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YotaJosh

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I've learned (as some of you probably have) that the factory sway bar on the front of the FJ60 is useless when you've got quite a bit of extra weight bolted on like I do - Trail Tailor roof rack, ARB front bumper with Warn 8274, 4x4Labs rear bumper, etc.

I know that some people source a factory FJ62 bar for the rear. I'm not sure how much that helps as I've never tried it. Is it worth it?

What about doing something custom, like using the Currie Antirock universal kits?

Any cool retrofits using junkyard parts from something else? Any other ideas?
 
SWAY bar is almost always the first thing underneath to go into the scrap metal bin, IMO. Sorry I don't have better replacement information.
 
List or maintenance items for fresh feel on a turn:
1. spring shackle bushings (old sloppy ones let springs shift)
2. Quality shocks with proper valving (both up and down travel)
3. Springs; Are your clamps tight around the pack? Are your friction sliding plates at the end of the springs still there?
4. Knuckle Trunnion bearings (have you rebuilt the front axle and did you use koyo bearings) What about proper pre-load?
5. Tie rod ends = old ones give sloppy steering response.

I run no steering stabilizer or sway bars and I can do 90 mph on the flat freeway with 1 finger on the wheel. But all my parts are upgraded or fresh. I run a heavy 4x4 labs rear bumper fully loaded and an arb front with a M12000 winch.
 
In the (ahem) old days, there was an American company that sold sway bars for virtually everything, including FJ40s and FJ60s - ADDCO. They still show an FJ60 rear bar: http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/catalog/toyota/

and JEGS shows it: ADDCO 383: 7/8" Rear Sway Bar 1981-86 Land Cruiser FJ60 | JEGS - as well as Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ADDCO-383-Rear-Sway-Bar/dp/B000ED7JIE

I once rode in a spring-over FJ55 with no sway bars, and when the owner peeled around a corner, I though I was going to die - so I can appreciate the top-heavy sensation you're trying to fix.
 
List or maintenance items for fresh feel on a turn:
1. spring shackle bushings (old sloppy ones let springs shift)
2. Quality shocks with proper valving (both up and down travel)
3. Springs; Are your clamps tight around the pack? Are your friction sliding plates at the end of the springs still there?
4. Knuckle Trunnion bearings (have you rebuilt the front axle and did you use koyo bearings) What about proper pre-load?
5. Tie rod ends = old ones give sloppy steering response.

I run no steering stabilizer or sway bars and I can do 90 mph on the flat freeway with 1 finger on the wheel. But all my parts are upgraded or fresh. I run a heavy 4x4 labs rear bumper fully loaded and an arb front with a M12000 winch.

1. Is happening soon. My bushings are toast.
2. I've got 5125 Bilsteins on there now. I think they are a little soft for this truck. I like the ride otherwise though.
3. Springs are in good shape. I'm going to tear them down and repaint and lube the sliding plates when I do the bushings.
4. Knuckles are in good shape. Recently did a rebuild
5. TRE's are new.

Truck drives great straight. It's the body roll while turning I don't like.


In the (ahem) old days, there was an American company that sold sway bars for virtually everything, including FJ40s and FJ60s - ADDCO. They still show an FJ60 rear bar: http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/catalog/toyota/

and JEGS shows it: ADDCO 383: 7/8" Rear Sway Bar 1981-86 Land Cruiser FJ60 | JEGS - as well as Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/ADDCO-383-Rear-Sway-Bar/dp/B000ED7JIE

I once rode in a spring-over FJ55 with no sway bars, and when the owner peeled around a corner, I though I was going to die - so I can appreciate the top-heavy sensation you're trying to fix.

Interesting. Thanks for the links! I wonder it it's beefier than a stock FJ62 sway bar.
 
Tire pressure is also a factor. Sounds like the rest is in order.
 
I think the rear sway-bar reduces body roll and helps the truck feel more stable when going around corners at higher speed. It also reduces axle flex, so if that matters you'll want to rig up an easy method to disconnect. Interestingly, the 62 from bar is larger diameter than the 60 front bar.
 

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