Sway bar end link relocation (or "how to fit 34s with zero rubbing") (1 Viewer)

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hey fellas.

Any updates here on this?

Im gonna pull the trigger on some adjustable links soon.
Were the bds quiet?
 
I ended up buying Jomax's Tundra's sway bar end links, link below, to eliminate the bushings as a whole. I'll keep my old links in the truck in case I have issues but I feel better not having the bushings fail on a trip. I did not have to relocate the mounting as the links pivot without the bushings.

Couple of weeks in since the install and so far so good.

How’s this turning out for you? Got updated pics??
 
How’s this turning out for you? Got updated pics??
Took it wheeling in
How’s this turning out for you? Got updated pics??
its tighter than I’d like but I took it wheeling this last weekend around the Hot Springs area in Arkansas and other than running on the fender liner in the front (I still need to move it up), it’s perfect.

0976E960-7894-426E-918F-2DDC37CC6892.jpeg
 
Took it wheeling in

its tighter than I’d like but I took it wheeling this last weekend around the Hot Springs area in Arkansas and other than running on the fender liner in the front (I still need to move it up), it’s perfect.

View attachment 3187361

Any noises?
 
Took it wheeling in

its tighter than I’d like but I took it wheeling this last weekend around the Hot Springs area in Arkansas and other than running on the fender liner in the front (I still need to move it up), it’s perfect.

View attachment 3187361
Any pictures of it with that arm at full droop? I think it’ll get significantly worse as the sway bar end moves through its arc of travel.
 
Any pictures of it with that arm at full droop? I think it’ll get significantly worse as the sway bar end moves through its arc of travel.
No but I can easily lift it up and take a pic. I'll try and do it this weekend.
 
Hey all,
Does anyone now make these link ends and ship to australia, also the relocation brackets everyone Sars theyd be better if they were a half inch longer, have longer ones been made!

I'm looking at putting 35s on my 2020 vx australian delivered. Running kings 2.5 suspension, ucas, +18 offset methods.

Very keen on getting 35s under it without too much hassle.
 
Just ordered some bits for moving the links out thanks to @linuxgod 's list..

Trail tailor KDSS relocation brackets

Keyser manufacturing spacers Aluminum Spacers - 1-1/2" O.D. - Keyser Manufacturing - https://keysermanufacturing.com/product/1-1-2-o-d-1-2-i-d-aluminum-spacers/
in 2" Length

i found the M14x1.5 10.9 110mm Cap head screws at fastenal

hopefully that works..

Also doing to do the Dr KDSS BOTCK for the rear panhard

I do have the LCA armor as well which i may use (or may not... idk)

Also these guys have a complete kit in australia with LCA plates to for the relocated end link -
Exploring Oz youtube went over it... looks quality but the above method should be just fine.
 
Just ordered some bits for moving the links out thanks to @linuxgod 's list..

Trail tailor KDSS relocation brackets

Keyser manufacturing spacers Aluminum Spacers - 1-1/2" O.D. - Keyser Manufacturing - https://keysermanufacturing.com/product/1-1-2-o-d-1-2-i-d-aluminum-spacers/
in 2" Length

i found the M14x1.5 10.9 110mm Cap head screws at fastenal

hopefully that works..

Also doing to do the Dr KDSS BOTCK for the rear panhard

I do have the LCA armor as well which i may use (or may not... idk)

Also these guys have a complete kit in australia with LCA plates to for the relocated end link -
Exploring Oz youtube went over it... looks quality but the above method should be just fine.

If you use those bolts, I recommend getting a couple grade 10.9 washers. The factory bolts are flange bolts and the washer ensures the bolt head torque is even across the entire end link mounting point.

Note that flange head bolts are preferred as they more evenly distribute the clamping force across the entire flange, whereas a washer only really distributes the force to the smaller circular area around the hex head, which can cause the washer to deform. Flange bolts in this spec are really hard to come by though. I ended up buying a pair of these (which are for an ARB bull bar for a Land Rover), though with shipping form the UK is was about $35.


That said I ran standard hex bolts with zinc washers (not grade 10.9) for a couple years and they were fine (except for bending the lip of a washer on a rock which pushed it into the sway bar end link rubber) so either way you'll probably be fine.

 
Very good point re: Flange Bolts...
I looked up the ARB ones (not stocked in the USA by ARB btw.. for some reason).. via my LRDirect account.. then found this while having a beer.
So saved the DHL..


I'll still pick up some hardened washers when i go to fastenal as well.

thank you for the help :)
 
Just ordered some bits for moving the links out thanks to @linuxgod 's list..

Trail tailor KDSS relocation brackets

Keyser manufacturing spacers Aluminum Spacers - 1-1/2" O.D. - Keyser Manufacturing - https://keysermanufacturing.com/product/1-1-2-o-d-1-2-i-d-aluminum-spacers/
in 2" Length

i found the M14x1.5 10.9 110mm Cap head screws at fastenal

hopefully that works..

Also doing to do the Dr KDSS BOTCK for the rear panhard

I do have the LCA armor as well which i may use (or may not... idk)

Also these guys have a complete kit in australia with LCA plates to for the relocated end link -
Exploring Oz youtube went over it... looks quality but the above method should be just fine.

The Nitroneauto kit looks pretty great. I’ve messaged them to get more details and pricing.
 
Very good point re: Flange Bolts...
I looked up the ARB ones (not stocked in the USA by ARB btw.. for some reason).. via my LRDirect account.. then found this while having a beer.
So saved the DHL..


I'll still pick up some hardened washers when i go to fastenal as well.

thank you for the help :)
Nice. Wish I’d seen those when I bought mine. Yeah the ARB ones are only available from a few shops in the UK… I contacted a few US distributors for ARB stuff and none could source them in the US. One upshot of the ARB IIRC is that they’ve got a heavy zinc rust resistant coating, though I still used anti-seize on the threads
 
The Nitroneauto kit looks pretty great. I’ve messaged them to get more details and pricing.
I sent them an email as well, I have the SLEE kit installed but obviously still a bit concerned about the extreme angle of the sway bar end links. Have you heard anything back @kcjaz ?
 
I sent them an email as well, I have the SLEE kit installed but obviously still a bit concerned about the extreme angle of the sway bar end links. Have you heard anything back @kcjaz ?
the guy emailed right back and gave me a quote and I asked some followup questions and he never replied and I didn't follow up either.
 
the guy emailed right back and gave me a quote and I asked some followup questions and he never replied and I didn't follow up either.
Appreciate the input. I'm waiting to hear back, but very intrigued with this potential solution.
 
That kit seems really pricey. As best I can tell the only advantage vs buying the KDSS bracket and following what I did is that it gives you a double shear config for your sway bar end link. However for the extra $700 or whatever you could just find a local shop that would fab something for you.
 
That kit seems really pricey. As best I can tell the only advantage vs buying the KDSS bracket and following what I did is that it gives you a double shear config for your sway bar end link. However for the extra $700 or whatever you could just find a local shop that would fab something for you.
Definitely not cheap, often the case with LCs... I actually started accumulating most of the parts to follow your method before I got sidetracked with some other projects, but I hadn't seen much about this alternative so I figured I'd see if anyone else had actually followed through on getting one.
 

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