Swapping a VW into a 1st gen IFS 4 runner (2 Viewers)

[clx16]

The only dash cover i could get was blue. I may change the color completely of the interior because blue isn't my favorite interior color. Laziness leads to acceptance though so I was looking for a match on some of the other parts.

I've painted plastics in my 80 and the dash of a 100 so not afraid to paint stuff.

Will be interested to see how yours turns out.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

I'll post up some pics of the interior and fiberglass work as i start the process. US epoxies out of Florida can hook you up with some good epoxy resin (the only epoxy ill use) as well as very light flexible fiberglass that will contort to fit the dash like a glove.

 

[KLF]

The only dash cover i could get was blue.

What color are you looking for? I have a really nice matching dash pad and cluster bezel, in gray.

 

[clx16]

@KLF I will keep that in mind, I don't know yet, everything i have is blue and all the new stuff i purchased happens to be blue also. Its a 79 so apparently only blue is left OEM New. I am no where near as far along as @dohcdelsol93 is in the project. Mine still needs the engine yanked, and the cab lifted off the frame (not even bolted down!).

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Im far along in my project? I just hope im done before spring. I cant let yota building time interfere with my sitting on the lake time.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

The dash!

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Fill in the cracks. Got to wait until it dries to sand and or add more filler. Once you think you have it filled in and perfect cover it with silver duct tape. If you see imperfections you'll most likely see them in the fiberglass. Doesn't have to be perfect but needs to be close. Im using a cheap bondo spot filled as it's easily sandable. Once i lay the epoxy and if dried the dash can continue cracking all it wants as the fiberglass shell will have hardened to its form.

Im using epoxy resin. You don't need a face mask to work with epoxy in a ventilated area unelss sanding. Epoxy has a lot time (handle time) much longer than polyester resin. It also bonds stronger and is more flexible than polyester. Depending on the epoxy you're using (im using cold weather) I'll have almost 24 hrs to add a 2nd layer without needing a sanding to bond properly. I will brush the mixed epoxy resin on the pad with a paint brush then lay the fiberglass, I'll then brush on more resin until she is evenly wet. I think one layer is adequate to cover this as it doesn't need much strength. I've done lots of boat fiberglass work but this id the first cosmetic work I've done. I've repaired cracked spots in a hull, cut out and replaced a fuel tank as well as replaced rotten wood core. None of that needed to look good cosmetically.

Sanding needs to be done carefully while getting rid of these cracks. The pad is so brittle she cracks easily and I don't want more areas to fill.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Dash test fit with fiberglass. This is a very thin and flexible mat, even dry she fits nicely over the pad. Corners are usually what gives you a fit.

 

[clx16]

Do you put something on it for uv resistance once it is done?

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Yes, epoxy resin usually isn't uv rated, direct sunlight will damage it. Im not sure if it cracks or discolored or weakens but painting it will take care of that.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Should have a finished product tomorrow

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Not a final coat but one to help see any imperfections i may need to take care of before painting the color i want.

I will leave it a textured finish.

I plan to do the door and rear/passengers panels the same way. I hope to mount couple subs recessed into the cargo area panels if I have enough room to fiberglass in a ported box. I would prefer some 10s but id rather not use shallow subs. Ill have plenty of room for some good 6.5s in the back but being 6ft 2 and most if it in the legs i dont want to mount any in the kick panels at my feet. I will mount some 4 inch tweeters in the stock location. Some 6.5s in pods mounted to the roll bar is an option taken from marine guys and buggys. I have electric window doors swapped into this truck so door space is limited. The PO stole the manual doors and put in electric. Stole the 17 gallon tank and drooped in the 14. It also appears the wiring harness was changed from a factory automatic to a manual. This build would be much further along if not for all the guess work I've done this far. I have a feeling ill run into wiring gremlins before its all said an done. I may be pulling an entire wiring harness from a passat then running it inside this 4runner being that painless doesnt make a full require kit for the body that I've found. I don't trust another near 40 yr old used harness to be good either.

I plan on a seat swap so I'm not set on amp location. The plan is to put 2 amps, one for subs and another for the highs/miss. Under the front seats would be ideal. I'm still new to doing cosmetic fiberglass work so I hope my finished products look better as I do more. If I was better id say screw the soft top swap and put in full zip in canvas sip in side and rear roll up curtains like a boats hard top. Would make the roof rack mounting easier.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

The dash

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Seems the hard top windows have leaked for a while I have some surface rust to get rid of under the back seats. Everything else under the nastyy original carpet looks ok. Fingers crossed I get the new body mount bushings and body lift kit installed by the end of the weekend. I will be laying down sound dampening may like dynamat and moulded vinyl rather than carpet.

I scored a set of blue dash vents from eBay. I got the dash assembled minus the gauge cluster and dash pad. I don't like the dash pad color so I'll do more paint shopping this weekend.

I need my flooring down before bolt in the accelerator pedal. Once flooring is down and lift kit done I start back on the motor and wiring.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Got the 2 inch body lift installed along with new body mount bushings. I think I can comfortably fit 35s. With the light torqey diesel I probably wont have any acceleration issues with 4.30s, I ran 4.10s and 33s on my dd 40 for years. The only time i wished for a lower gear was when i was off road, the rocky trails were not kind to the kidneys on a 4 inch lift suspension on a 40 that rode like a shopping cart. Took it on a 5 hr trip to the beach once. Little lady said if we took the 40 again shed fly and meet us there...so it wasn't kind on the freeway either.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Just for refrence the weight is on the lower ball joint studs. The house jack (cheating I know) and center block are under their mounting points by fractions of an inch to help me calculate the lift I've gained. Id estimate the power train weight will lower me 2 to 4 inches, as she sits now I could clear 37s...and axle shafts any time 4wd is engaged! Just add throttle to see things snap on rocks.


Safety first when crawling under a rig. The hose jack is rated about 20k

 

[bigredmachine]

if you have a problem with the rear brakes locking up to early you can add a manual proportioning valve and ditch the lspv. the write up is for an 80 but you should be able to use most if not all of the parts if needed Write-up: Toss the LSPV and install a manual proportioning valve - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/write-up-toss-the-lspv-and-install-a-manual-proportioning-valve.782430/

 

[dohcdelsol93]

I've looked into deleting but I'm trying to keep the lsvp. I can come up with a way to adjust the lever setting if needed.

I got the dash out of the passat, currently figuring out how im going to attach the vw cluster to the 4 runner. I have a huge sheet of black abs, ill try to get some plexiglass tomorrow. This part of the project will be tricky.

 

[dohcdelsol93]

Done with the pass side dash. Anvil grey matches the blue close enough

 

[dohcdelsol93]

My 4 runner speedo is shot. No idea if any of it works but the passat will only need a proper fuel lever gauge and Speedo converter.

Carefully removed the passat glass. The 4 runner glass fell out upon removal.