Swapping a VW into a 1st gen IFS 4 runner (1 Viewer)

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Greenville, SC
Despite a fuel shortage there was no problem getting diesel these past few weeks. I've been glad I went diesel in my DD, tow rig and even my boat. It's been very warm here so I'm on the water instead of playing with the 4 runner like i want to. I've been sitting on the adapter for a few weeks so I decided to install it. I had to grind some material off the adapter, 3 slits, that hit the oil pan supports. Other than that if fit like it was made for it.

I will be ordering a 3.4 flywheel, good oem replacment clutch and 3.0 throw out bearing so maybe in a week or two I can get her installed into the 4 runner. I still have a ton of wiring to sort but I need the motor in place as she's getting new wiring from brake lights to head lights to dome light.

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Joined
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I've got a pretty serious fishing boat. I reeled this guy in last weekend. The worm almost swallowed the fish whole but I was able to get it reeled in. You know it's a fighter when you have to put down your coffee and grab a glove to get the hook out.

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So i needed 4.10s so I don't die on Hwy 85. The 4.3s. Will put me a a little high on the rpms at 75mph. Now I think I can hit 85-90 with 33s I'll be running. I also needed a countless list of other small items so i bought a nice runner with working AC. 22re with 5 speed. So now i have more parts to sell to fund this project. Sadly I've not had time to do any work but.. The fishing has been good this year.

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I got the suspension rebuilt, brakes rebuilt, steering rebuilt and master cyl/brake booster upgraded.

Now I just lack the body lift and diff drop spacers.

I'm anxious to toss in the tdi/r150 combo but waiting on a buyer for my 22re/w56 set up.

If anyone in the south east wants a good runner with what looks like a new head come take her off my hands. No tags or insurance...front end not aligned but you can spin it around the neighborhood.

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Joined
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Lake season is over so time to get back on the 4runner.

I'm having to run power to my garage. Real power in order to run a welder and plasma cutter to repair some frame rot.

I decided on a centerforce dual friction clutch. I modified the pressure plate, cutting off the weights.

The engine is mounted to the trans.

I hope to get the wiring finished up this weekend so I can start pulling the body off the frame.

I'd be further along but the little lady daily drives her discovery 2, this means I get to do tons of stupid repairs on a regular basis that take away my 4 runner play time.

I need a cheap 4l60e/dana 18 set up for her rover so I can ditch that unreliable lump. Getting her a diesel swap would give me time to finish my restomod.
 
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Engine is sitting on blocks, trans is resting on cross beam.

The trans is shifted maybe 3 inches forward due to fire wall clearance. Not only do I have a tandem pump on the back of the motor but I also have a coolant T.

I was hoping the 2 inch thick diesel conversion specialist adapter would push it forward further.

If you're looking at a tdi adapter and want a shorter drive train doomsday diesel makes one that is thinner, I'm just not sure how much. I'll be using him for the little ladies mercedes om602 disco 2 conversion.

Couple notes for anyone wanting to to this, you'll need a solid axle conversion or minimum 2 inch body lift.

The ifs drop lift kit that has both the front drop hanger under the front the diff and the rear puck spacers may help


As of now the stock passat air conditioner compressor doesn't fit. The alternator and stater have plenty of clearance. The turbo is tight on the passenger inner fender and the power steering pump is tight on the steering shaft at the steering box.

I had to lower my steering stabilizer arm maybe 1.25 to 1.5 inches.

The stock passat oil pan would have never fit. The alh hybrid metal/aluminum pan that costs less than 100 bucks with matching pickup barely fits.

I'll need to shorten the front drive shsft and make the rear longer.

I had to cut my tunnel to fit the shifters on my r150, this 4.36 gear rig started life as an automatic so that had to he cut anyway.

Drilling holes to fit clutch master cylinder was easy. Wish I could have kept an automatic.
 
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This is my 4th engine conversion in a yota. You'd think by now I'd be a better welder.

Maybe I'll get lucky this year and Santa will bring me a 220 gas mig. Im not sure I'll ever improve on this 120v flux core. I did spend a weekend running dual 60 amp 220 out to my carport and 30 amp 120. I dug 20 ft by hand to bury the lines until i quit thinking like a peasant and brought home an mt85 with a trencher attachment.

For now this will have to do. I weld a good deal at the shop but it's with a 220 and much thinner metals.


I have shifted the transmission forward enough where I will clear the ac compressor, possibly with the oem mount brackets as well as plenty of room for the power steering pump.

the steering damper still needs to be moved to a better spot to clear the oil pan.

Lucky for me this diff doesn't move. I will need to extend the rear drive shaft. I think the front shaft will be ok. I have shifted the trans maybe 3 inches forward, possibly 2.5.

I could possibly get away with a pinion flange spacer but I lifted the trans up about 1.5 inches after the body lift plus the 2.5-3 inch power train forward shift plus the 2.25 lift springs and 5 inch long shackles. I don't want 4 inches of pinion spacers (100 each) when 250 will get me a balanced and properly extended drive shaft.





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Joined
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I'm still waiting on engine mounts to arrive, I'll be using 22re mounts. Once done I'll then jump into the drive shafts. I have approx 8 degrees angle that is no Bueno for a stock single cardan drive shaft. That will likely change a bit once the engine is fully set in place.

I have a pretty steep angle as well so a DC drive shaft might be needed as this is being built as a daily driver/highway runner more than a trail rig

The angle to obtain for the DC is 1-2 degrees out at rest in parallel from axle pinion flange in relation to the drive shaft tube. The slight angle will allow for proper grease distribution at cruise speeds for the u joint bearings. Under acceleration she'll lift up to 0 degrees, in perfect theory.

For the stock 1st gen single cardan joint 3 degrees is best for a highway rig to keep vibrations down and the measurement is taken from tc pinion flange to axle pinion flange. If this was a trail rig my 8.5 degrees could be made very bearable at low speed use with a simple 3 degree shim.

At least that's how I think it works. It's been years since I built a rig, if my memory is off please correct me!
 
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Motor mounts finished. I had to add a few shims under 22re motor mounts. Got the slave fitted and plumbed.

My motor mounts look more like old school steel bridge construction but on the upside I can easily reach all mounting bolts, most of them from outside the fender well.

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