Swaping knuckles on a 73 AXLE (1 Viewer)

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I have read the threads on this but I don't have a definant answer. I have a 73 front axle on my 40 that I am going to do a LC knuckle swap on. I have a 76 axle on my parts cruiser. I am going to re-built the 73 axle and add longfields but what would be a better choice knuckles from a 62 axle or the 76 knuckles. I want the most strength and good stopping power. I am looking at spline count, strength, calipers, and brake disc size. No, I am not going to do the full axle swap just the knuckles. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
The 62 would be the best(if it the same as a 60knuckle) larger bolt pattern steering arm and fine spline birf(76 maybe fine also?) Someone else with more knowledge will chime in.
Nathan
 
only real difference is the length of the birfield stubs (longer on the 76, shorter = mini size on the 62) and the wider spacing of the knuckle studs on the 62 as was said.

If you go with the 76 knuckles, you will be able to use the steering arms you currently have. If not, you will have to do different TRE's
 
Bump Any more ideas?
 
I stand corrected on the small pattern knuckles. If you are going to invest in longs, then I wouldn't waste my time with this small pattern axle.

If you have money to burn and want a nice setup you could buy:

a set of 6 shooter knuckles $250
a set of 6 shooter 4x4 labs arms w/ 1 ton ends $?
longfields $760
vented FJ60 rotors $100
IFS 4 piston calipers $250

and use the lockouts, hubs, spindles, and hardware from the 76' axle.

PS: Tivo the Extreme 4x4 episode this saturday at 12:30. I believe they are building up the front axle of their buggy with a Land Cruiser housing.


Jeremy
 
In the long run, what are you planning on doing with your truck?

SOA?

If you are staying spring under and not wheeling huge tires, the small pattern is easier and will work just fine.

Finding the proper steering arms (79 - 84 FJ40) to work with your stock Tie rod ends is not the easiest thing in the world.
 
In the long run, what are you planning on doing with your truck?

SOA?

If you are staying spring under and not wheeling huge tires, the small pattern is easier and will work just fine.

Finding the proper steering arms (79 - 84 FJ40) to work with your stock Tie rod ends is not the easiest thing in the world.

In follow-up to Mace . . .

Steering arms: There are shims that let you run your FJ40 tie rod with the 60/62 steering arms.

Longfields: Search for some other threads on this. If you don't intend to do some serious, birfield-breaking big-tire wheeling, then you may not need or want Longs. Apparently they resist carnage by being softer than regular birfs. The side effect is premature wear. (Or simply don't engage your front hubs or axle until it gets messy)
 
First I have heard of this softer material on the Longs. Good thing I am not planning on running these in an AWD rig. When the hubs are disengaged the birf doesn't move. I think this would be a problem for the guys running these in FJ80's, not us 40 owners.

JEremy
 
I am currently running 36" radial irocks. I do trail rides but not hard core wheeling. I really want the best and strongest setup that I can get so that it is done right the first time. I will also be running a locker. I guess I will use the 76 unless somebody gives my some good advantages for the 62. The axle will stay SUA as i already have a 4" lift.
Greg
 
Forget the 76' setup and go for the heavier knuckles, or you will be in there doing it again later. Find a mini truck, get your locker and longfields and go ahead and the ARP studs for the knuckle and lockouts and do it right th efirst time. With 36" tires and a front locker and I assume power steering you will be breaking studs eventually.

Jeremy
 
You ever see a SU with stock arms break?
 
Ok I have made my mind up and going with my origional plan of the 62 knuckles for more strength and hd parts. Thanks all for the input. Greg
 
How would whether the axle is over or under the springs change the amount of horizontal force placed on the steering arm studs?

To answer your question, yes. https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/259695-looking-arp-knuckle-stud-bolt-pt-size-studs.html

Also Steve has seen it happen. Post 24 https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/85027-knuckle-studs.html

Jeremy

Because of the orientation and design of a High Steer arm. They put more stress on the studs

So an overtorqued knuckle and someone else in a completly unknown situation, cool..

Ok I have made my mind up and going with my origional plan of the 62 knuckles for more strength and hd parts. Thanks all for the input. Greg

Good choice, don't run the shims in your TRE's. It really is a poor choice. have a new tie rod made up.

:beer:
 
Toyota upgraded the studs when they started putting power steering on these rigs, so I don't think it is strictly a high steer arm problem.

Jeremy
 

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