Suspension Questions - Icon, OEM (1 Viewer)

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Nov 6, 2014
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Texas
I'm going through my new-to-me 2016 LC200 which came with some Icon suspension parts already installed. The front is obviously lifted but I can't tell on the rear. I think it may still have OEM rear coils. Visually it sits pretty level. I like the stance but it will squat when loaded.
  • The rear coils have color code dots - I'm assuming that's OEM parts...True? The front coils have Icon markings, the rear coils do not
  • What are you using for rake measurement? Just hub to fender lip, or is there some reference line like a window sill that can be used for level reference?
    • My hub to fender lip measurements are 22" Front, 21" Rear, so about 1" negative on the rake (assuming hub to lip is the standard reference)
    • EDIT: Using @daneo suggestion below, mine is 0.625" higher in the front of the running board measured 57" apart between the end caps, for a total of 1.23" negative rake. Oof.
It has a very slight drift in steering so I want to get an alignment done but not until I understand where I am on suspension first, and correct the rake if necessary.
 
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Yeah those sound like toyota rear coils. Not really sure why they would have kept those in the midst of icon parts, other than maybe the rear had too much lift so they went back to stock?

Factory coils are fine for factory use, but quickly get overwhelmed with even moderate loads, and this is beside you having more lift in front than rear. You are right to get a rear coil you'll stick with for a while before the front alignment as rear ride height will impact caster readings.

When I was digging up ride height numbers the most common method was a vertical tape through the center line of the hub from the ground to the wheel well opening lip. I don't remember any numbers to compare yours to though.

Edit: now thinking about it some people did go with hub to fender to control for tire diameter. Maybe get both so you have numbers ready to compare to whatever you find.
 
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Yeah those sound like toyota rear coils. Not really sure why they would have kept those in the midst of icon parts, other than maybe the rear had too much lift so they went back to stock?

Factory coils are fine for factory use, but quickly get overwhelmed with even moderate loads, and this is beside you having more lift in front than rear. You are right to get a rear coil you'll stick with for a while before the front alignment as rear ride height will impact caster readings.

When I was digging up ride height numbers the most common method was a vertical tape through the center line of the hub from the ground to the wheel well opening lip. I don't remember any numbers to compare yours to though.

Edit: now thinking about it some people did go with hub to fender to control for tire diameter. Maybe get both so you have numbers ready to compare to whatever you find.

I guess I'll order up some rear coils then tweak the preload on the fronts to tune the rake.

Sure, if you're going to compare vehicle to vehicle numbers then controlling for tire size matters. I'm really just concerned about the difference between front and rear, and whether the fender lip is the reference point on the body that everyone is using.
 
Center cap to fender. Stock 2021 HE:
Front 20”
Rear 21”

Ground to fender thru center cap. Stock Dunlops @ 33psi, 15k wear, no load.
Front 34 5/8”
Rear 35 5/8”

Measured just now.

However, take note that this measurement does not yield 1” of chassis rake. Measuring the running boards at the front and rear, as a proxy for the chassis, these measurements show just over 1/4” of rake. Might be closer to 1/2” chassis of rake over the longer distance from hub to hub. Point being: the body fenders have some incongruous shaping and don’t represent the chassis.

Anyhow, you should be able to use your relative measurements from my measurements to see how things have changed on your truck.
 
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Just checked, and my 1/4” running board rake measurements were 57” apart. Scaled up just about double for a 112” wheelbase, the chassis rake should be 1/2”.

If you need me, I’ll be over here in the weeds.
 
Point being: the body fenders have some incongruous shaping and don’t represent the chassis.
Thanks...that's what I was trying to get at. I wasn't sure if people were just using those measurements and comparing raw data, or somehow accounting for body shape. The running board makes sense to me, so I'll go check that and update.
 
Icon is over-hyped InstaBro equipment. Run something engineered and made in Australia.
I would love to. Need to get past the holidays and get some breathing room on the credit card before my wife will let me get any toys though. This cruiser just happened to already have Icon so I’m stuck with it for a while.
 
Stock height 200, OEM 10mm spacers up front, 275/70/18's on stock wheels. All measurements are through centerline of the hub from the ground to the bottom lip of the fender.

Front Driver-35 3/4"
Front Passenger-36"
Rear Driver-36 1/8"
Read Passenger-36 3/8"
 
Every measurement I've done or seen is from hub center to fender. I've measured ground to fender, but as @bloc says, different tire diameters make this a less consistent measurement.

I'm not sure what the running board nonsense is about. They're bolted to the body.
 
Every measurement I've done or seen is from hub center to fender. I've measured ground to fender, but as @bloc says, different tire diameters make this a less consistent measurement.

I'm not sure what the running board nonsense is about. They're bolted to the body.

Yes, an accurate general measurement would be hub center to fender but for my own measurements ground to fender via the hub centerline is still a consistent measurement for both pre and post lift. That info isn't as useful for someone not running the exact same setup as myself but it's interesting to see the differences amongst slightly different setups.
 
Yes, an accurate general measurement would be hub center to fender but for my own measurements ground to fender via the hub centerline is still a consistent measurement for both pre and post lift. That info isn't as useful for someone not running the exact same setup as myself but it's interesting to see the differences amongst slightly different setups.
Agreed.

Edit: the hard part is that it can't be used to compare from vehicle to vehicle. It is great for pre-post suspension mod on the same vehicle.
 
Agreed, the hub center to fender is a good method for measuring suspension geometry and changes that geometry if you have a good baseline measurement to start from. The hub-center-to-fender method doesn't provided a precise measurement for true chassis rake, however. The OP could shoot for "rear hub center to fender measurement 1" longer than front hub center to fender measurement." This would yield the 1/2" of chassis rake that stock rigs have. Using the running board method calculates the actual rake. Just different methods of arriving at the same place.

I think we're all on the same page that ground-to-fender introduces more variables that makes it less useful across different setups.
 
Center cap to fender. Stock 2021 HE:
Front 20”
Rear 21”

Ground to fender thru center cap. Stock Dunlops @ 33psi, 15k wear, no load.
Front 34 5/8”
Rear 35 5/8”

Measured just now.

However, take note that this measurement does not yield 1” of chassis rake. Measuring the running boards at the front and rear, as a proxy for the chassis, these measurements show just over 1/4” of rake. Might be closer to 1/2” chassis of rake over the longer distance from hub to hub. Point being: the body fenders have some incongruous shaping and don’t represent the chassis.

Anyhow, you should be able to use your relative measurements from my measurements to see how things have changed on your truck.
@daneo
Can you say if you had any mods done on your truck before your measurements above?
(I know you said “stock” but just want to clarify if you just meant “stock suspension”.)

Reason I ask is that I just measured on my ‘21 Heritage and found the same 20” front and 21” rear you have.
But I had a Slee rear bumper and 24 gallon aux tank installed. And a goose gear drawer.

I swear I lost a couple of inches due to all this weight but our measurements say otherwise.

Do you have the third row?
(Mine does not)

@Tex68w,
Your rig is heavily modded too, right?
 
Thanks guys, i needed this thread. Got lost in the sauce, never measured anything. Or at least never recorded any measurements.

Albeit the LC rides higher than an AHC LX stock, I wouldn’t want to be outdone either way 😉.
 
@daneo
Can you say if you had any mods done on your truck before your measurements above?
(I know you said “stock” but just want to clarify if you just meant “stock suspension”.)

Reason I ask is that I just measured on my ‘21 Heritage and found the same 20” front and 21” rear you have.
But I had a Slee rear bumper and 24 gallon aux tank installed. And a goose gear drawer.

I swear I lost a couple of inches due to all this weight but our measurements say otherwise.

Do you have the third row?
(Mine does not)

@Tex68w,
Your rig is heavily modded too, right?

No drawers, no bumpers, just stock with 275’s. The HE has a small lift compared to the standard 200 so there’s probably something to that. I now have the OME 2” and 285/75/17’s.
 
@daneo
Can you say if you had any mods done on your truck before your measurements above?
(I know you said “stock” but just want to clarify if you just meant “stock suspension”.)

Reason I ask is that I just measured on my ‘21 Heritage and found the same 20” front and 21” rear you have.
But I had a Slee rear bumper and 24 gallon aux tank installed. And a goose gear drawer.

I swear I lost a couple of inches due to all this weight but our measurements say otherwise.

Do you have the third row?
(Mine does not)

@Tex68w,
Your rig is heavily modded too, right?
Stock as a rock.

ProClip phone mount and Belkin wireless charger 😄

There is a third row of seating in this one.
 

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