To the 200 series guys who put a lift on after their odometer hit 6 figures. Did it make the on road performance better or worse. I have 156k on my stock suspension with the largest ko3s that can be fitted on there at the moment. After the tread wears im gonna lift the truck the typical 3ish inches most people do. I don't want it to turn to a mule on road and on the highway. Let me know about your experience. Also for the guys who changed your suspension early. You can't really chime in on the changes vs your old suspension because it never got old, but if you'd like to throw your $0.02 in on what you think about your particular suspensions on road mannerisms. Id be happy to take in as much info as possible. Thanks in advance
Suspension question
- Thread starter TXMoose
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elcie200
SILVER Star
I just upgraded at 135k miles. Note that it was suspension and tires. Would absolutely do it again.
Got my 200 in 2018 w/ 74k. It’s a 2013. Came with Tough Dog everything. I’m not sure when the TD was installed. Rode fine. Little stiff in the rear when empty and “firmish” all the way around. Iirc I was running it on a softer setting initially. Then had been cranking it up toward 9 (firmest setting) over the years.
Rear shocks started leaking around 100k, replaced with OME Nitrocharger. Those felt too soft. Fronts got cranked to 9.
Fast forward, swapped to OME MT64 at 135k. Kept the TD 931 rear springs. Added coilrite airbags. DrKDSS panhard kit. LOVE IT.
Did 1k miles on new suspension, old ko2. KO2 had 60k miles on them iirc. Solid upgrade. Much smoother ride. Well balanced. Even with the old tires.
Then new tires (falken at4w) and 2200 miles thru CA, Utah and Nevada. Including some light off roading in Moab.
Upgrades were worth every penny. Highway: butter smooth. Mountains/twisty: better cornering and reduced body roll. Shafer road to Potash: great ride over the gravel road and small rock bumps. Braking: no nose dive.
This combo is the smoothest driving truck I’ve ever owned. I wanna say Cadillac smooth. But I never been in a caddy.
Now I’m getting the itch to swap out some other parts cuz the bushings are showing heavy wear — LCAs etc.
Got my 200 in 2018 w/ 74k. It’s a 2013. Came with Tough Dog everything. I’m not sure when the TD was installed. Rode fine. Little stiff in the rear when empty and “firmish” all the way around. Iirc I was running it on a softer setting initially. Then had been cranking it up toward 9 (firmest setting) over the years.
Rear shocks started leaking around 100k, replaced with OME Nitrocharger. Those felt too soft. Fronts got cranked to 9.
Fast forward, swapped to OME MT64 at 135k. Kept the TD 931 rear springs. Added coilrite airbags. DrKDSS panhard kit. LOVE IT.
Did 1k miles on new suspension, old ko2. KO2 had 60k miles on them iirc. Solid upgrade. Much smoother ride. Well balanced. Even with the old tires.
Then new tires (falken at4w) and 2200 miles thru CA, Utah and Nevada. Including some light off roading in Moab.
Upgrades were worth every penny. Highway: butter smooth. Mountains/twisty: better cornering and reduced body roll. Shafer road to Potash: great ride over the gravel road and small rock bumps. Braking: no nose dive.
This combo is the smoothest driving truck I’ve ever owned. I wanna say Cadillac smooth. But I never been in a caddy.
Now I’m getting the itch to swap out some other parts cuz the bushings are showing heavy wear — LCAs etc.
I think it depends on what you are looking for. We replaced the suspension on our 200 at nearly 95k with OME MT64. The factory suspension was definitely tired, and would sag substantially with a weekend camping trip load. We also prior had a 300k 200 with Bilstein 6112 Setup.
Compared to the stock 2016 suspension with 95k miles, both the new MT64 and the well used 6112 setup carried load better, and rode firmer.
The Stock 200 suspension was slightly more comfortable (soft), but other than that the upgraded suspension on both were better IMO. When we put the MT64 on the 2016, my wife's response was "Now it drives like a Cruiser should"
So, IMO you'll probably prefer a good lift over tired stock suspension unless you want a soft floaty ride. One word of advice, I'd keep the overall lift closer to 2" or less to keep the front suspension geometry in the sweet spot. 3" won't clear any bigger tire, and will compromise the front suspension geometry more than less lift.
Compared to the stock 2016 suspension with 95k miles, both the new MT64 and the well used 6112 setup carried load better, and rode firmer.
The Stock 200 suspension was slightly more comfortable (soft), but other than that the upgraded suspension on both were better IMO. When we put the MT64 on the 2016, my wife's response was "Now it drives like a Cruiser should"
So, IMO you'll probably prefer a good lift over tired stock suspension unless you want a soft floaty ride. One word of advice, I'd keep the overall lift closer to 2" or less to keep the front suspension geometry in the sweet spot. 3" won't clear any bigger tire, and will compromise the front suspension geometry more than less lift.
Yes it'll make a big difference. Changed at 170k and went from a super soft ride to a slightly firmer ride. It will depend on which suspension setup and what weight rated springs you do on making it better or worse. The 2" lifts will net better than pushing them to 3"
- Thread starter
- #6
Please explain why the 2 is better than the 3 if you would please
Geometry differences in suspension will play a factor as well as that extra inch increasing ground clearance. But there will be other people in here that spent more money on their suspension and have no problems running that 3" level.
You'll run out of alignment adjustment room to get caster in range using stock upper control arms (UCAs) above about 2" of lift. Aftermarket UCAs move the upper ball joint back to get the adjusters back into range, but this eventually leads to other challenges like CV angle.
Also, your suspension's ability to travel down into holes and dips is critical to maintain stability on-trail. Clearing the body with large tires and obstacles aren't the only things to consider. As you increase the static ride height you increase your potential for up travel (provided the springs aren't too stiff), but you do so at the expense of down travel.
Said simply, too much lift places form over function.
2" is a great number for the front of a 200.. especially if the new front suspension adds a little down travel, which some systems do.
In addition to above, the factory suspension was designed with the links/control arms close to level to the ground. In this state, most all road forces/impacts translate straight up into the struts/springs. As you lift, the links/arms move away from horizontal, and some (small) additional portion of the road impacts travel up the arms into the frame vs upwards into the springs/shocks. On top of that, every inch of lift moves the center of gravity higher, further amplifying body roll.
1.5-2" seems to be the sweet spot, and except for extreme cases (clearing really big tires with a lot of body chopping also) the additional 1" of lift brings mostly compromises, with few benefits.
Well said.
Agreed with @TimCFJ40
To the OP, have your cake and eat it too by using a staggered lift strategy to meet your goals, while keeping the suspension in its sweet spot. I always recommend more tire (lift) as that's the only one that actually lifts the pumpkin. Body lift is also a great strategy to keeping center of gravity low while potentially lifting the front and rear bumpers where it really helps with the 200s long overhangs.
To the OP, have your cake and eat it too by using a staggered lift strategy to meet your goals, while keeping the suspension in its sweet spot. I always recommend more tire (lift) as that's the only one that actually lifts the pumpkin. Body lift is also a great strategy to keeping center of gravity low while potentially lifting the front and rear bumpers where it really helps with the 200s long overhangs.
Bumpers aren't attached to the frame? Oh you mean stock plastic bumpers, gotcha!
- Thread starter
- #13
I do have a question about the 1 inch body lift. From everything I was taught is body lift BAD suspension lift GOOD. what's changed that we have body lift recommendations in here. Sorry just trying to wrap my head around it. Also I know everything will work off road... But as far as on road friendly lifts. Are y'all doing OME? Dobinsons? I do get off road but I don't do heavy wheeling that I'll ever need kings or whatever super fancy set up.
As with every generalization, there's more nuance to the details.
Next to tires, suspension lift has always been a core mod to enable more clearance and compression travel. However, there is a point where too much suspension lift creates serious compromises and that's usually around 1.75" to 2.25" in most vehicles. Things like bad geometry, toe steer, lost roll resistance, traction, stability and the inability to get alignments back to spec and also affects fitting larger tires.
And that's where body lifts come into play. Often, lifts are done just for aesthetics and this is where mild body lifts can add a lot of visual lift for practically no compromise. While keeping center of gravity low with major components of the frame, engine, and suspension all at normal heights. On the 200-series, a body lift has functional benefits to help lift front and rear bumpers, which tends to be some of the first points of contact as the overhangs are large.
Stagger the lift with tires, suspension, and body lift done in moderation, and the results can be more than just doing 1 thing to an extreme.
Another way to look at it is they are complementary with more extreme mods. Less suspension lift enables fitment and alignment of larger 35/37s tires. Body lift helps fit said tires under the fender.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
A body lift allows bigger tires which is the best type of lift in my opinion. Granted I’m in the no lift, big fat tire camp, but the 200 with a 1” body lift and some mild trimming can swallow a pretty meaty tire without the ride compromises of a suspension lift.
The reason you have heard in the past that suspension lifts are better that body lifts is because suspension lifts increase clearance under the belly of the truck while body lifts do not. However, larger tires increase ground clearance everywhere and body lifts can be an important factor in fitting the largest tires.
Body lift is pretty much required to fit 37"+ tires on the 200 series unless you're really into hacking your rig up and restricting suspension up travel. If you're not interested in going past 35", you can get by without a body lift (or really any lift at all). As @TeCKis300 said, if you want to achieve a higher lift aesthetic without compromised suspension geometry, the two types of lift can be paired together (more modest suspension lift + body lift) to get the 3+ lifted look. If you have no desire for 37" tires, body lift is really just for looks or to slightly improve approach/departure (does not affect breakover).
As for suspension, popular options are Dobinson, OME, Bilstein, Ironman and probably more that still fit into the "not overkill" category. Though my recommendation if going with Dobinson or OME, is don't get the cheapest shock option (the basic twin tube yellow shocks), but go with something mid-range like Dobinson IMS or OME MT64 or Bilstein 6112/5160. Also talk to a knowledgeable vendor like @crikeymike or @cruiseroutfit about your needs before you just pull out your credit card and start buying stuff online.
Body lift is pretty much required to fit 37"+ tires on the 200 series unless you're really into hacking your rig up and restricting suspension up travel. If you're not interested in going past 35", you can get by without a body lift (or really any lift at all). As @TeCKis300 said, if you want to achieve a higher lift aesthetic without compromised suspension geometry, the two types of lift can be paired together (more modest suspension lift + body lift) to get the 3+ lifted look. If you have no desire for 37" tires, body lift is really just for looks or to slightly improve approach/departure (does not affect breakover).
As for suspension, popular options are Dobinson, OME, Bilstein, Ironman and probably more that still fit into the "not overkill" category. Though my recommendation if going with Dobinson or OME, is don't get the cheapest shock option (the basic twin tube yellow shocks), but go with something mid-range like Dobinson IMS or OME MT64 or Bilstein 6112/5160. Also talk to a knowledgeable vendor like @crikeymike or @cruiseroutfit about your needs before you just pull out your credit card and start buying stuff online.
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