Suspension info clearing house-- what the hell suspension should I do? (1 Viewer)

Dec 7, 2004
The Lou
OK. This is where I'm at:

I bought the 60 a year ago. I have a new Diesel on order from G&S. I have a new frame. Body work will be done soon.

So, I have a now good body, a new frame, a new drivetrain (12HT/H55F combo) someday, and I'm about to put the rebuilt body on the new frame, and of course, now is the time for suspension.

I've searched, read all the older posts, contacted some of you by PM to get advice, and I'm still not sure what to do.

Now, what I want is an expedition rig, so it has to handle weight well, and be able to handle paved roads well. Face it, if you're driving to Costa Rica, not every mile will be off road. Lots will be pavement and gravel grade.

So On road handling has to be fairly good, but I am willing to sacrifice it somewhat for improved off road ability. If it means I don't drive on road more than 50 or 55 MPH, that's fine by me. Ability to carry weight is important. I 'll have a diesel and a winch up front, I'd like to have on board air and welding and a few other toys as well. IN back will be loaded with stuff... Plus the rear bumper, spare tire, stuff on the rack, etc.

I would like 35 inch tires. BFG MT KOs are what I had in mind.

This is what I have so far:

1) SOA: 5-7" of lift with flat stock springs. Probably the cheapest of all the mods? Good flex. weight characteristic unaffected, so I'd have to add add-a-leafs.

5-7" of lift may be too much for me-- might look goofy with 35" tires. Do add-a-leafs cut down on articulation? Will that much lift change steering geometry requiring mods? How is axle wrap dealt with?

2) Parabolics: 2-3" of lift. Cheaper than OME. Good articulation.

However one person reports problems with on road handling and driving while the vehicle is NOT loaded with weight. This is a bit of a problem. While I am after a vehicle that can handle weight, it would not be weighted down all the time.

3) OME: Expensive. 2" of lift, can be upped with shackles, etc. Good flex, but is it as good as a SOA or parabolic? Need add-a-leafs here, too.

4) ALCAN, et al: Cheaper than OME, same types of limitations and benefits though.

I suppose if you asked me my preferences in order, they would be

1) Articulation (off road ability)
2) Weight handling (Expedition ability)
3) price and on-road ability (Tie. I don't want to spend more than a couple grand, and I am willing to sacrifice some on-road ability for a like amount of off road ability)
4) ability to handle 35" tires, but not be too tall

I don't want to start an argument, but I would like one unified place to discuss option side-by-side and get things figured out. Compare side-by-side and whatnot.

I could be wrong in my assesments above. If so, let me know. I want to know people's experiences. The frame, axles and suspension are going to be my indoor winter project, so I would like to get this figured out soon.

What would you do in my shoes?

thanks in Advance,


Jan 22, 2003
Rockyview County AB
As far as spring unders go. I'd go with one of the so-called Australian kits and do a 2" body lift if you don't have quite enough clearance. One of our club members has been running BFG MT 35s on his 60 with a Belton kit for a long time. It had no body lift but needed a small amount of trimming at the front of the front fenders. I'd sooner run a small body lift and a 2.5" suspension lift than to go more than 4"springs. It gets too hard to manage steering etc and soon you have done all the work it would take to do a springover. One of my friends had to get some custom high steer arms to run a set of prototype 5" springs.

I'm not convinced that SO is the right thing for an expedition rig. I'm sure temped to try though. I'll be incorporating some major sway bars with disconnects if I do.

Disclaimer... my company distributes Belton Suspensions and G&S is a dealer. This post may be slanted a bit toward you buying a kit from them.


not an addict
Jan 30, 2003
windy wyoming
i'm on the opposite end for body lifts...i had one and was in an accident...becuase the bolts are soo long, it is easy to over stress them and the cab broke free.

i run the 4" alcan's and am very happy...i'm running 33x10.5's with no rub issues. i'll try my 35x12.5s one of these day to see if they rub in hard articulation, but right now, the 33's are great for my gearing.

here's what the alcan looks like...this is with the springs spec'd one inch over stock length and 1" shackles. i also included two pics of what my old worn alcan's with 36's looked like

as for needing add a leafs, i'm sure they can do that as they build the spring for your useage. i had to weigh my vehicle front and rear, and account for the amount of weight i'd be carrying when i ordered them. talk to tom peeso at alcan. he can help you decide if that's the way to go

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