Suspension for 2010 Tundra? (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

Hey all,

I picked up a too good to pass up deal on a local 56k mile 2010 Tundra trd rock warrior. I just sold my land cruiser with a King 2.5 suspension and my dealer just boned me on a deal we had agreed to on a 21 HE. I know, the tundra is a completely different beast, but I'd love to make this one handle even better. Any recommendations for a suspension upgrade from the oem setup with Bilsteins? Not sure if this is a long term keeper or just a fling. My true love is the land cruiser. My soon to be driving teenage son may inherit this one.

Thanks!

 

[CharlieS]

This sure is a quiet forum. I'm used to the land cruiser forums that are pretty active.

 

[wagonteeth]

I cant say for the Tundra but my wife had a toytec Boss aluma series package installed on her 4runner. We just completed a 5,000 mile roadtrip with it. It feels great both on and offroad. Very solid kit. We went with spc upper control arms to avoid caster issues.
Toytec offers a similar kit for the tundra and I've been considering it for my '15 model.

 

[CharlieS]

Thanks! I would love to do a nice suspension, but I am going to try to not build this one like I have with others. I'd like something to keep stock height, take out some rake, and keep an offroad friendly ride. (edit, Bilsteins are shot), maybe it is as simple as removing the add-a-leaf and restoring the stock TRD leafs?

 

[kos221]

I have had the OME kit on the front and it rode smoother than stock with no additional weight before the shocks started to leak after 40k miles. That happened twice. Now I have the additional weight of a steel bumper and TRD supercharger. I decided to try Dobinson 50mm coil and shock combo. The springs are about the same stiffness but the shock valving seems not as firm. I would probably go with the Bilstein 6112 with a truck with no extra weight because the coils are about 600lbs/in and that is pretty close to stock spring rate. The back end on these trucks sways a bit and owners have reported good results with the TRD rear sway bar. 20 inch wheels with 275/65r20 all terrains handle corners way better than 286/75/r18 mud tires and I bet those 17s make it handle even worse. I will trade you some factory 20s for those TRD rock warrior wheels! Better yet, TRD made a forged 22x9 wheel for this truck. I bet it handles like on rails with those 22s

 

[CharlieS]

Thank you.

I appreciate the offer, but the 17" rims with all terrain tires work well for my location (about half dirt roads).

I'm not looking for high performance handling - although I'd like something a little bit closer to the Kings that I had on my cruiser. I think the add-a-leaf adds too much stiffness, so compliance suffers. The bed has more bounciness than I'd like on dirt washboard and potholed roads.

I noticed yesterday that I have one front shock that is leaking oil (and has been for a long time), so I need to do something.

It looks like the Bilstein 5100 are only about $100 more than the factory Bilsteins, same labor for me, so I think I'm going to go with the 5100s. Sounds like the second snap ring will bring the front up to take out some rake.

I just need to figure out the rear springs - the stock TRD are probably fine, but mine are badly rusted. Taking off the add-a-leaf isn't a great option because of the rust. I'd like to find a good set of takeoff factory leafs, but haven't had any luck yet.

I don't want to spend a ton on the leaf springs. The Toyota price is $1300 for the pair - way too much. Good aftermarket custom built (like the Alcan) are slightly less cost, but have long lead times. Icon, OME Dakar and others all increase lift (which I don't want).

I need to do something sooner rather than later, since the state safety inspection is due by end of month (that shock won't pass inspection).

Once I have that done, I'll look into the TRD anti-sway bar. Looks like they're only a couple of hundred bucks on ebay.

Thanks for the info and advice.

 

[kos221]

Well thanks for considering it. Those 17 inch TRD wheels are almost as valuable as gold around here. I have a set of factory 20's with General Grabber AT's and a set of the older style machined factory / TRD 18 with Toyo Open Country M/T's. My main point is that I was surprised how sloppy my truck felt around the city and on the highway when I switched from the 20's to the 18's. It feels like a different truck. I can turn the steering wheel a 1/4 turn and wait.... first the front end wallows over and it starts to turn, then the back wallows over and follows the front. The 20's made it feel like a much smaller truck in terms of on street manners.

 

[CharlieS]

@kos221 Maybe look at your tire pressures? I don't get any behaviors like that on the 17s with beefy all terrain tires. Using the right RCTIP can make a huge difference.

 

[Pitch]

The Tundra is a great truck, but it is certainly no Land Cruiser. If you are looking to keep it at near stock height, then pull the add a leaf, and pick up some new/nearly new OEM TRD Bilsteins, either the red or yellow ones that someone else has pulled off. They are significantly better than the stock black shocks, significantly cheaper than anything aftermarket, and can be had for $200 for a whole set on Craigslist of FB near you. Throw a 2" spacer on the front if you want to level it out and be done.

I have an 80 and a 2010 Tundra. The Tundra will never be the vehicle an 80 is, but it does not need to be. Save the dough and put it into the next Cruiser, where it belongs.

 

[CharlieS]

Thanks. You are absolutely right, it will never be a land cruiser! I had the add a leaf pulled off today and have a set of shocks inbound. It already is more level and rides much more like I want it to.

 

[GreatWhtCrewmax]

My first love is tundras so I only come in here when I have questions about my 80. If you want a great ride at stock height the factory trd bilsteins are the best. (I have a set of factory take off you can have if your in the central California area). If you want you can fit a 33” tire with no lift. My current tundras (which is my 4th) setup is my favorite. It’s a 2.5 lift using a bilstein 5100 shock with a 1/4 shim, an add a leaf in the back (I have a decked system full of parts and tools) and 285/75 r18 basically a 35x11.

 

[CharlieS]

Nice truck!

Thanks for the generous offer of suspension parts. Unfortunately, I am about as far from CA as I could get.

I put in an order for 5100s and new strut top mounts front and rear. Should bring it back to factory new ride, or better (and leaves the option open for a mild lift later).

The only thing I wish was different was to have a crewmax like yours, the rear legroom in the doublecab is a little tight for my 6'+ son when we travel as a family.

 

[nuclearlemon]

nice score on the low mile tundra. i absolutely love mine. i drive it more than the 80 now (mainly because the 80 is constantly needing something - currently rear u joints, but i also love the power). you will notice bed bounce (mine gets pretty bad on concrete). i have the cheap black shocks and will upgrade to bilsteins as i've heard they make a big difference. i also picked up coachbuilder spring bushings for the rear. the stock setup is a pressed in steel bushing and i don't feel they can flex as well as a standard bushing (somewhat proved when i didn't relax the suspension enough and the shackle pin absolutely would not come out, but i jacked the rig up one pump and the pin pushed out by hand).

 

[Bias Rutus]

I also have a 2010 Rock Warrior. I bought it with 165k miles on it a couple of years ago. I immediately got an alignment, put on TRD sways, and then bilsteins 6112/5160s. It was an amazing improvement. At the time the bilsteins were a great price.