suspension fluid (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter eric888
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Use original fluid. I haven't seen a thread here where anyone has found an equivalent...other than supposing the fluid is somewhat equivalent to 10-weight oil.
I would flush it once it's filled to at least the "minimum" line on the tank. You'll need 2 cans, and have some left over.
Steve
I would flush it once it's filled to at least the "minimum" line on the tank. You'll need 2 cans, and have some left over.
Steve
Where is the suspension fluid tank located? Didn't know there was one. But then again, I am new to the UZJ100 world.
uHu
Bridgeburner
Only Toyota/Lexus fluid.
Empty ??? Where did the fluid go?
Empty ??? Where did the fluid go?
You realize the fluid level goes up and down as a function of the vehicle height? When in LOW the level will be high, when in HIGH the level will be low and at N it should be between max and min. I set it to the max level at N, don't worry if it's a bit higher because there is more then enough volume in the reservoir to handle these level fluctuations. There is only one approved fluid for this system, Toyota AHC suspension fluid. Sure, it looks similar in viscosity to 10 weight but despite searching the 'net for alternate equivalents I can't find a definitive Toyota document that specs the fluid, and conflicting info on if it's full synthetic or mineral. Play it safe and only use OE fluid. There are many, many searchable threads here on the AHC system, the FAQ section has a good write up on how to fill and bleed the system. Also, the difference between the fluid level at H and at L is the indicator to how much charge remains in your globe accumulators, you want to see more than 7 graduations difference.
As globes loose their nitrogen charge and their gaseous volume decreases fluid will now occupy that space to equalize pressure/volume. So, if your fluid level is decreasing and it's not on the ground you'll find it replacing space that previously held nitrogen. Failing or completely busted diaphragms in one or more globes.
Seems right, kind of figured that. It rides good (better than mine), I need to put it on tech stream and see what the pressures are. This one I'm referencing is my mom's, so it will probably be getting new coils and new globes if there are signs of a failure.
TechStream gives you the pump output pressure generated to lift the vehicle from L to N, unfortunately it doesn't give you any reading associated with the charge(s) in the globes. Best you can do to try and isolate a busted globe without opening up the system is the 16 point step thru manual damping test while pushing down on each corner or ease each corner off a curb or similar and feel the damping response. Rock hard, no damping equals busted diagram on that corner.
Good info. I remember tech stream only gives last reading when pump shuts off, I suppose it's simply an indication to set torsion bars & replace rear springs.... Not diagnose bad accumulators. I've driven other LX's with presumably 4 bad accumulators and that will shake your teeth over speed bumps. Do you have a link to 16 step manual damping test?
Here's the procedure, Step 4 in particular. I have never really felt 16 individual steps; more like soft, bit harder, pretty hard, yep that's the hardest.
- Thread starter
- #16
Thanks for the information. Now the level is at N, but the level of fluid is below min. Should I re-fill? I did tried to change to HIGH level, it do not have any problem. I do not observe the level of fluid.
You can find the repair manual on Toyota TIS info website, 2-day subscript is $15. Or search the forum and ask questions here about what you are trying to repair.
Add some fluid if it's below MIN in Neutral. The pump is right under the reservoir and it will start sucking air if you put in High with no fluid in the reservoir.
