Suspension Advice (1 Viewer)

[75Denver]

I've gone through many members builds, researched several suppliers and the brands they carry, but would like to gain real world input. I'm currently running a stock '04 Land Cruiser on 275/70/18's with just over 100k miles and plan to keep it for a very long time. I tend to lean towards trusting the countless hours Toyota has spent in R&D and global proof of stock LC's as my best option. However, that being said, I'm at the point where I could either do a simple swap of shocks and be content as the rig takes me nearly anywhere I want to go OR, go all in and do a complete suspension upgrade.

My last truck was a '00 4Runner and I added OME and hated it. Probably due to the fact that the vehicle itself didn't have enough weight to warrant the aftermarket setup...but it rode like crap unless loaded to the max. My LC is my primary rig and is used both as a daily driver and adventure/camping platform. I'll probably just keep the stock bumpers until someone decides to run into them but for now, no big plans to build it into an overlanding/4-Wheeling rig.

If you have ANY insight and experience with the kits below or a combination of parts, I'd love to hear more. Please include your overall vehicle use and setup, ride characteristics on/off-road, as well as any complaints to failure/issues (equipment/customer service). Of the manufacturers/vendors out there, here are my options.

Slee 2.5" Reservoir Adjustable ($$$)
ICON Stage 3
OME 2.5"
Dobinson 2.5"
Tough Dog Adjustable 2.5"
Iron Man Foam Cell 2"

 

[Cgall100]

Just went through this same research.

I havent seen a good comment about Icons on a 100 yet, everything I've seen makes it seem like they're not worth the price unless you're doing high speed. Everyone seems to be running OME or IM FCP or a combination. I was leaning toward dobinsons but haven't seen a kit on a 100 that IFS. Tough Dog are hard to come by as they dont ship outside of Australia.

I went with IM FCP with the heavy coils in the back but havent put enough miles on yet to give. adecent review. The ride is stiffer than the OEM and has less body roll.

 

[Mike NXP]

Tell us more about how you plan to use your vehicle and how much weight , constant load, you will be using.

Toyota shocks all around and possibly heavier coils if you load your rig down is a great place to start. Personally I have been through FOX shocks, OEM, and dobinsons on my rig. OEM has performed the best for me

 

[75Denver]

My LC is my primary rig and is used both as a daily driver and adventure/camping platform. Currently stock setup without any big plans to build it into an overlanding/4wheeling rig. I use it to explore, get to mtn bike trails and only have it loaded up 2 weekends/mo. Constant load is rider weight and mtn bike/gear

 

[Texsun84]

Dobinsons have some progressive rate coils with low lift. I love mine.

My buddy runs Ironman and is jealous, just sayin.

 

[Mike NXP]

My LC is my primary rig and is used both as a daily driver and adventure/camping platform. Currently stock setup without any big plans to build it into an overlanding/4wheeling rig. I use it to explore, get to mtn bike trails and only have it loaded up 2 weekends/mo. Constant load is rider weight and mtn bike/gear

Does your vehicle have a smooth ride currently? I believe you are a prime candidate for sticking with toyota shocks, don't let the price fool you they are good quality. Consider replacing all the rubber bits and bobs that stack on the front shock and hardware on the rear shocks as well ( new bolt and washer )

Start with that and then with all your gear in the rig then you can take some measurement to get an idea if your rear springs need to be any heavier or if they are sagging.

If you want to add a little height to the front and rear at some point the OEM shocks can handle it as well.


Put your money towards good tires, maintenance , and other items that will benefit your driving style.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

New OEM Toyota Tokico shocks. All the other brands you mentioned are for heavier *constant* loads, which sounds like you don’t plan to have.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

If you want to add a little height to the front and rear at some point the OEM shocks can handle it as well.

The OEM Tokico shocks actually have slightly more travel than some of the aftermarket “lift” shocks.

 

[75Denver]

Thank you. I should add, I had the TB's cranked up for a more level stance and to fit the larger tires. I almost think I need to increase the shock length or add coils +shocks in the back for a more even load height when packed to the roof.

All in all, it's smooth. It's had a great life but what I've notices is a very loud compression in the front when going over large bumps. Not sure if its a sway bar bushing, shocks, or front diff bushing (?) but it's annoying.

 

[Mike NXP]

The OEM Tokico shocks actually have slightly more travel than some of the aftermarket “lift” shocks.

Good to know, I added a bit of height to my rear with some heavier dobinsons coils and I was worried the OEM couldn't handle it so I ended up swapping out my rear to dobinson as well. Good to know the OEM could have handled it.

 

[Mike NXP]

Thank you. I should add, I had the TB's cranked up for a more level stance and to fit the larger tires. I almost think I need to increase the shock length or add coils +shocks in the back for a more even load height when packed to the roof.

All in all, it's smooth. It's had a great life but what I've notices is a very loud compression in the front when going over large bumps. Not sure if its a sway bar bushing, shocks, or front diff bushing (?) but it's annoying.

So if you measure from the center of your wheel hub to the fender you should see between 19-21" MAX up front and an inch or so higher in the rear. Once you start pushing the front end up more than that you have to think about drive angles and dropping the front diff.

Compression noise? Like a shock compressing , sort of a hydraulic air like noise? I think that's pretty normal when the shocks are doing their thing.

 

[hickuptruck]

Slee and Icon stage 3. What are you gonna do when your shocks need rebuilding and service every 30-60k miles? Takes several weeks once you send them in.

 

[Mike NXP]

Slee and Icon stage 3. What are you gonna do when your shocks need rebuilding and service every 30-60k miles? Takes several weeks once you send them in.

What are you saying, Icon shocks need to be rebuilt every 30-60k?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Good to know, I added a bit of height to my rear with some heavier dobinsons coils and I was worried the OEM couldn't handle it so I ended up swapping out my rear to dobinson as well. Good to know the OEM could have handled it.

View attachment 2899169

FWIW, I have OME 860 coils, which have 50 lbs higher spring rate than factory coils and give 2-2.5” of “lift”. I’ve been running them with OEM Tokico shocks for 3 years and haven’t had any issues. But I do agree with you that the Dobinsons yellows are a superior shock and will better handle heavier loads. I put the Dobi yellows on my 80 and they’re niiice.

 

[OwnerCS]

I believe that any project that has the intent to go "above and beyond" standard OEM replacements, is all about money and the amount that you feel comfortable spending.

Here are some things to consider:

1) Search is your friend. There are threads and conversations about each product in the consideration list.
2) Fit for Purpose. I can say with all certainty that off-roading requirements vary by region. Do you live where most trails are rated more in the 1 - 3 range or in a place where trails that are rated at 1 but turn into 5 without warning?
3) Differences between a given maker's product. For example, there are different grades of Dobinsons (1 - Nitro Gas yellow), 2 - IMS Black, 3- IMS for extended travel, 4- MRR Black for adjustable remove reservoir. The shocks come at different price points and are meant to appeal to different buying segments.
4) Bushings and all the other stuff. When I refresh a suspension, I like to start at the bottom and work up, Based on need, I usually replace ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, anti-sway bar end links, control arms (depends on bushings and ball joint condition). Lift and on or off-road use determines other enhancement choices.
5) Will you be doing the job yourself or will you be supplying a mechanic with parts? This figured into cost number and limit. Noting there are some products that may be easier for a DIYer to install than others. This comes into play with some enhanced torsion bars.

 

[Mike NXP]

FWIW, I have OME 860 coils, which have 50 lbs higher spring rate than factory coils and give 2-2.5” of “lift”. I’ve been running them with OEM Tokico shocks for 3 years and haven’t had any issues. But I do agree with you that the Dobinsons yellows are a superior shock and will better handle heavier loads. I put the Dobi yellows on my 80 and they’re niiice.

Good info..... I had the OME 2865 light/medium coil in the rear at first but I had too much weight for that setup. From there I sprung to the dobinson coils which turns out are too beefy for my current setup because my back end is sitting pretty high. Suppose I need something right in the middle but I'm done throwing money at suspension.... for now.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

What are you saying, Icon shocks need to be rebuilt every 30-60k?

Yes, per Icon, at minimum every 40k miles if primarily street driving. If off-road, the recommended rebuild interval is 15k miles.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I would get Toyota (Tokico) shocks, some OME medium rate rear springs (1.5" or 2.5" variety) and adjust your front torsion bars.

I'd put the money saved into redoing suspension bushings, sway bar bushings, and steering/differential bushings. It will feel like a new vehicle and handle the people and weight of bikes and gear out the back perfectly.

I have been through many suspension variations on my 100 and I can say that my absolute favorite is the one I described above; except with 1.5" OME springs and a few turns on the stock torsion bars.

My stock coils were pretty fatigued at 170k so I didn't do this; but if you really want to keep things cushy you can get a new set of them and put some 30mm spacers on top of them instead of getting OME coils.

 

[75Denver]

All great stuff guys! Is there a particular Tokico shock number that is longer than OE to account for a taller coil in the rear and TB crank? I was planning on replacing all the rubber parts even though they seem to be in decent shape. They all have hairline cracks in them but are not missing big chunks/pieces. @hickuptruck , you brought up a very good point. I do have a classic Bronco I could drive but it's not as plush as my 100

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Is there a particular Tokico shock number that is longer than OE to account for a taller coil in the rear and TB crank?

No, just the factory 100 series Tokico shock. None of the aftermarket “lift” coil springs (other than maybe Slinky and OME 863J) are longer than the OEM coil springs, they just have higher spring rates to allow carrying heavier loads without sagging to the bumpstops. In fact, some of the “lift” coils are actually a full inch or so *shorter* than the factory coils (e.g. OME 865). And you can’t crank the TBs beyond the factory range of suspension travel without doing some other stuff and spending a lot more money.