Suspending Mojave style

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Joined
Dec 11, 2010
Threads
27
Messages
131
Location
Philipsburg, MT
I'm about 95% done with my Mojave suspension on a 62 and so far it has been an incredibly enjoyable upgrade. I actually gained about 6 inches of lift due to the fact that my original springs were flat as a pancake. All told the install took me about 25-30 hours total (by myself, lots of Red bull). The ride is outstandingly better, and is only improving as everything works itself in. It sits within an inch or so left and right of level, and the back sits about 2 inches higher than the front which is fine with me. I didn't have to do any mods to the tranny crossmember, not sure why, but my front driveline is way in front of it. Possibly due to adapter kit for the v8 but it doesn't look like the member was ever moved or modified. PO did the conversion. I have a little bit of rumble in my rear driveline that needs to be addressed as well as possible lengthening of the front drive line. Not sure yet. Have to do a little more measuring next time I'm home. Also I'm using the front sway bar extensions, but ditched the rear sway bar altogether. Feels 20 times better on the highway than it ever did before...

I really have to say thanks to Burt888, lcwizard and redmuttonchops for their input and Q&A, as well as Bandicoot for his Mojave System Build thread which helped me pre-plan to a tee.

As for the kit itself, it was nicely packaged and pretty organized. MAF was pretty good to deal with but sent me the wrong U-bolts for the front flip kit so I'm just rocking the stock stuff for now. The correct ones showed up today but I'm outta town for a few weeks.

The only other beef I had was that the front spring hangers were not ideally built for the greasable pins that came with the kit. Hard to explain without a pic, but the greasable pin would not go into the larger diameter hanger hole all the way and sit flush against the hanger face, because the diameter of the pin on the nut end was not reduced back far enough. This could have been fixed with a lathe, which I do not have, so instead I just chased the smaller hole with a drill bit (1/2 inch I think) the same size as the pin, in order to get the lobe part to sit flush. A small design fix is needed here with the hangers if no modifying is necessary.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=649831&stc=1&d=1341093918


Now, for all the experts I had a few questions.

My passengers side front spring seems to favor right hand side of the hanger for some reason no matter what rig orientation and I'm not sure why as the drivers side looks great and sits pretty close to center. I squared my hangers with the front cross-member. I was wondering what I should do to fix this or if its even necessary. Space the hanger away from the frame slightly? or bend the hanger to the left a little before welding? Doesn't look like it in the picture but it does sit flush with the bottom of the frame. If you guys think its ok, then I'll weld in the gussets, but don't want to get to crazy til I get another opinion.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=649837&stc=1&d=1341094111


Also here is a picture of my shackle angles in front. I'm satisfied with them as the suspension should settle a little and the angles will improve, hopefully improving the ride even more!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=649838&stc=1&d=1341094309


Let me know if you guys have any suggestions or tips!
2012-06-26_21-09-42_239.jpg
2012-06-28_09-26-39_103.jpg
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My passengers side front spring seems to favor right hand side of the hanger for some reason no matter what rig orientation and I'm not sure why as the drivers side looks great and sits pretty close to center. I squared my hangers with the front cross-member. I was wondering what I should do to fix this or if its even necessary. Space the hanger away from the frame slightly? or bend the hanger to the left a little before welding? Doesn't look like it in the picture but it does sit flush with the bottom of the frame. If you guys think its ok, then I'll weld in the gussets, but don't want to get to crazy til I get another opinion.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=649837&stc=1&d=1341094111


Also here is a picture of my shackle angles in front. I'm satisfied with them as the suspension should settle a little and the angles will improve, hopefully improving the ride even more!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=649838&stc=1&d=1341094309

without the pics I'm going to make a guess. Unlike the 40, the 60 frame isn't very consistent when it comes to square or parallelism. Sometimes the rails are perpendicular , sometimes the tilt right, sometimes left. Also the legs of the channels aren't always 90 degrees. I always install the hangars with the bottom parallel to the ground. As a result, sometimes there's a slight gap at the top or bottom between the hanger and frame. It's not as much an issue as getting the hangers straight so the bushings aren't always sideloaded

You'll have to weld them on to make corrections. The bolts are only good for holding them tight to the frame
 
Thanks lc, haven't welded them yet so when I get home I can put it back in the shop and see what the hangers are doing in relation to the floor. Wouldn't I want to make the corrections before I weld though? Not sure why you say weld them first.
 
I'm seeing pics
 
Thanks lc, haven't welded them yet so when I get home I can put it back in the shop and see what the hangers are doing in relation to the floor. Wouldn't I want to make the corrections before I weld though? Not sure why you say weld them first.

make your corrections and weld them. the bolts are more for getting the truck to a welder in the event you don't weld. It's more about the obvious and common sense.
Despite the fact you can, you'd never put a spring in upside down. Do every step as perfect as you can otherwise you're just stacking errors
 
Thanks again. Will square them up better like you said and run some bead! The only other question I had is about the ubolt flip kit. The mounting pins for the shocks seem to have a smaller diameter than the stock ones. The bushings that come withe the kit for the shocks are loose on these pins for the flp kit. Should I find something to bush the shock pins out a little? I just kind of squeezed the rubber bushings a little bit on the pins for now. Seems ot be tight but for how long...
 
The early 60 series has 16mm pins and the later have 18mm pins. OME deals with this by making one shock but two bushing sizes. The Flip kit all have 16mm pins so check to see which bushings you were sent.
If the parts pullers sent bushings based on the year of your truck and you have a later model, they may have sent the wrong ones. Or, if you have an early model they still might have screwed up and sent the wrong ones.
 
Aha, I'm guessing I got sent all 18mm bushings. Will get ahold of MAF and get 4 16mms coming for the flip kit.
 

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