Super firm shift after transmission rebuild

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Hey i8hmud forum,
I‘ve been ready here for a while about transmission problems / shifting issues, but now it’s the time for me to share my problem.

So i bought my 93‘ modell at the beginning of this year. My gf and i are planing on doing a long Panamerica trip.

Every time after driving for an hour in warm
To hot weather in really slow LA traffic, we experienced a very firm/ harsh shift from gear 1/2 and back. It just happened, when i would slowly accelerate from 0-15mph and then let go off the paddle. The car would still have the momentum and kept rolling. Then the hard shift would occur. It is a really significant, loud noise that is noticeable in the hole car.

3 month ago, we took it to a Transmission Shop ( Leons Transmission Reseda). They told us, the transmission is worn out (214k).
After having the transmission completely rebuild / new vaulve body/ new transfercase, we drove it on the highway… the noise was still there.
We instantly took it back , they changed the vaulve body and it was fine for 2/3 weeks, till it came back. I keept driving it with the second vaulve body, but after 1.5 month it became worth.
I took it back to Leons Transmission and they change it to a 3rd vaulve body. We picked it back up, and after 1 hour in the traffic, the problem/ noise was even worse before it dropped it off.
The shop test drove it again and the problem did come up.
After 3 attempts and having the truck 6 weeks in the shop, we still experience the same intermitted problem and payed 4.5k for a new rebuild.
Tomorrow we going back to the shop and pick the truck up.
I was luckily able to take a Video while the truck was acting up. I going to attach it here.
I hope someone know anything or can help us any further. Thanks.

 
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The A442F is quite reliable and rarely needs a rebuild. When there are shifting issues I would do this in order:
  1. Make sure there is the correct amount of tranny fluid as measured on the dipstick when hot and idling.
  2. Adjust the "kickdown" cable, see 80-series Throttle Adjustment - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com - https://www.ih8mud.com/tech/80throttle.php.
  3. Replace the shift solenoids in the valve body, see Transmission solenoids 1993 TLC - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transmission-solenoids-1993-tlc.1182887/. Can use Isuzu solenoids which are the exact same OEM part but much cheaper than Toyota.
Are you sure it is the transmission? One time my drive shaft needed greasing and would clunk/lurch in certain situations.
 
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Hey i8hmud forum,
I‘ve been ready here for a while about transmission problems / shifting issues, but now it’s the time for me to share my problem.

So i bought my 93‘ modell at the beginning of this year. My gf and i are planing on doing a long Panamerica trip.

Every time after driving for an hour in warm
To hot weather in really slow LA traffic, we experienced a very firm/ harsh shift from gear 1/2 and back. It just happened, when i would slowly accelerate from 0-15mph and then let go off the paddle. The car would still have the momentum and kept rolling. Then the hard shift would occur. It is a really significant, loud noise that is noticeable in the hole car.

3 month ago, we took it to a Transmission Shop ( Leons Transmission Reseda). They told us, the transmission is worn out (214k).
After having the transmission completely rebuild / new vaulve body/ new transfercase, we drove it on the highway… the noise was still there.
We instantly took it back , they changed the vaulve body and it was fine for 2/3 weeks, till it came back. I keept driving it with the second vaulve body, but after 1.5 month it became worth.
I took it back to Leons Transmission and they change it to a 3rd vaulve body. We picked it back up, and after 1 hour in the traffic, the problem/ noise was even worse before it dropped it off.
The shop test drove it again and the problem did come up.
After 3 attempts and having the truck 6 weeks in the shop, we still experience the same intermitted problem and payed 4.5k for a new rebuild.
Tomorrow we going back to the shop and pick the truck up.
I was luckily able to take a Video while the truck was acting up. I going to attach it here.
I hope someone know anything or can help us any further. Thanks.

Post your video here for instant diagnosis.
 
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The A442F is quite reliable and rarely needs a rebuild. When there are shifting issues I would do this in order:
  1. Make sure there is the correct amount of tranny fluid as measured on the dipstick when hot and idling.
  2. Adjust the "kickdown" cable, see 80-series Throttle Adjustment - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com - https://www.ih8mud.com/tech/80throttle.php.
  3. Replace the shift solenoids in the valve body, see Transmission solenoids 1993 TLC - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transmission-solenoids-1993-tlc.1182887/.
Are you sure it is the transmission? One time my drive shaft needed greasing and would clunk/lurch in certain situations.
Post your video here for instant diagnosis.
 
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I checked all the options. The shop also replaced the old throttle cable , the one from the pedal and the one to the transmission/ vaulve body.
It seems to me like the power/ moment of the engine doesn’t get correctly transfert to the transmission.

Here is the link again for the Video:



The A442F is quite reliable and rarely needs a rebuild. When there are shifting issues I would do this in order:
  1. Make sure there is the correct amount of tranny fluid as measured on the dipstick when hot and idling.
  2. Adjust the "kickdown" cable, see 80-series Throttle Adjustment - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com - https://www.ih8mud.com/tech/80throttle.php.
  3. Replace the shift solenoids in the valve body, see Transmission solenoids 1993 TLC - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/transmission-solenoids-1993-tlc.1182887/. Can use Isuzu solenoids which are the exact same OEM part but much cheaper than Toyota.
Are you sure it is the transmission? One time my drive shaft needed greasing and would clunk/lurch in certain situations.
 
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I'm betting cable adjustment and locking torque converter issues.

Check your wiring harness for poor connections on the TC lock up. Use the FSM found above in the "Resources" tab to the proper one for your year.

Same with cable adjustment. These are known to be sensitive to that.
 
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I'm betting cable adjustment and locking torque converter issues.

Check your wiring harness for poor connections on the TC lock up. Use the FSM found above in the "Resources" tab to the proper one for your year.

Same with cable adjustment. These are known to be sensitive to that.

That’s what i thought, but it all got rebuild and double check 3 times… i am clueless 😔
 
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That’s what i thought, but it all got rebuild and double check 3 times… i am clueless 😔

Did they replace all of the solenoids ?? that is 99% of shifting problems with that transmission, also did the replace your trans with Reman one or did they really rebuild it ? and again solenoids are 99% of the issues with the 442
 
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Did they replace all of the solenoids ?? that is 99% of shifting problems with that transmission, also did the replace your trans with Reman one or did they really rebuild it ? and again solenoids are 99% of the issues with the 442
Yes, 3 completely new/refurbished valve bodies!!! The company seems to have a good reputation. The guys from K+H Imports recommended them…
 
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I'm betting cable adjustment and locking torque converter issues.

Check your wiring harness for poor connections on the TC lock up. Use the FSM found above in the "Resources" tab to the proper one for your year.

Same with cable adjustment. These are known to be sensitive to that.
Can you help me more with the wiring harness: TC lock up?
 
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It is a really significant, loud noise that is noticeable in the hole car.
Could take it to a shop that has chassis ears (something like this) and make sure the noise is coming from the transmission. It is hard to believe that 3 valve bodies and a rebuilt tranny wouldn't fix the issue if it really was the tranny.
 
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Ok, so i have news:

I picked the truck up this morning from Leon‘s Transmission. I first looked under the hood and saw a brand new cable going from the throttle to the valve body. Second, the gas pedal is now nice and firm, and won’t flipp back. I drove the truck back home for 2h and it felt super nice. No harsh shifts and good back-pressure while letting of the gas.

I am super happy that my Cruiser is finally shifting how it suppose to do.

The bad side is how we got treated by the shop and how insanely bad their diagnosis was, especially because we just wanted a fix for the initial problem, not a hole new rebuild. To adjust the cable correctly and to also replace it, was in my opinion the KEY FACTOR for solving the initial problem. After 4 attempts, 3 new valve bodies and dozens of test drives, the shop also had an expensive learning curve . Same on us with paying 4,5k

I also remember, when i picked it up the Cruise after they installed the second valve body, the cable has been adjusted. Everything felt firmer on the pedal. I drove fine for a while but after a couple weeks the problem came back. It wasn’t as intense, but still occasionally.

What i can tell now is: By adjusting the cable that leads to the valve body not correctly, might also damage a lot. It can be just a thread off and your transmission starts acting up. It is super important to have it exactly where it suppose to be. Tiny adjustments are the key factor, but even more a good shop that understands your problem from the start.

A4F9E36C-3A38-451D-9E62-37F86512BCF3.jpeg
 
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Yes, 3 completely new/refurbished valve bodies!!! The company seems to have a good reputation. The guys from K+H Imports recommended them…
So I would get some Deoxit and spray the plugs and I mean spray them from the ECU to all of the plugs on the Trans, this stuff works great also plug and unplug it a couple of times to clean, both and again Deoxit is the stuff is the best , and now I just noticed you have success :flipoff2: I am happy for you
 
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Bad news: the noise is back. Just drove it around town and an hour on the highway. After going slow speed around the block to find a parking spot: the clunk noise was back.

I really don’t know what going on. It almost seems the noise is more frequent…

Anyone knows how exactly the throttle cable needs to be put in place? Can’t find any mm or inch descriptions. Even not sure if that’s the solution. 🤨
 

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