super charged with aux temp gauge (1 Viewer)

[Taz]

Those who are running the TRD charger and have an aux temp gauge...what are your engine coolant temps while driving on the flat at 50-60mph, with 90ish degree air temp? I just installed an auto meter temp gauge and holly crap my engine is running hot! I think my new gauge has to be off. I am running @ 220-230 (according to gauge) at the above mentioned conditions. While sitting in traffic with AC on and low RPM's (less than 1800) temps will creep up to 240 and my AC shuts off? I thought the AC shut off at around 226?

 

[cruiserdan]

Where is your sender located?

 

[RavenTai]

I would not drive it until you get that figured out, your HG is on its way to failure.

Where is the sender placed on the engine? Could it be in a place that is hotter than the left foreword side of the head?


And out of curiosity what is you factory gauge doing through all of this? And also would you be interested in beta testing the coolant gauge mod? I would like to see where AC cutoff happens on it.

 

[cruiserdan]

My Isspro sender is installed in the upper coolant neck, in the factory cast boss. My Isspro usually reads from 190 to 197 or so at full operating temp, when the vehicle is rolling. When idling stationary at high ambient temps with the A/C on the gauge will creep up to around 205 to 210. When I kick my aux fan on the temp will drop about 5-8 degrees from max, again at idle. Under extreme load at high ambient temps (Pulling the steep hills going into Lake Powell In July/August with a CGVW of 11,000 lbs +) it has hit 220-224. I back out of it at that point. I have not pushed it far enough to get the A/C to cut out to see what the Isspro says.

The stock gauge hits the "center" at about 140 degrees on the Isspro and will not move up from center until the Isspro hits around 217 or so. The stocker is at 3/4 (halfway between the center and the bottom of the red) when the Isspro is about 221-2.

D-

 

[e9999]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=53209&highlight=engine+temperature
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=53208&highlight=engine+measurement
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=53381&highlight=engine+temperature

 

[MTNRAT]

If your AC is cutting out I will bet dollars to donuts you need to go through your cooling system. Fan Fluid Clutch?. Thermostat? RADIATOR???? How many miles and is it the original radiator?
Cheers,
Sean

 

[Taz]

OK, a little more history...

-Pre Super Charger no aparnet problems (AC not shutting off)
-installed SC subsequent trip to Colorado...No AC (115degree) two years ago
-ron davis radiator/coolant flush/headqasket checked
-no problems for 1 year (didn't drive in really hot weather though)
-April 05 trip to Colorado...No AC (95 degrees)
-Radiator Flush again/new thermo coupler/ new 180 degree t stat/ sealed air leaks around shroud/checked head gasket again!....MUCH better as far as AC although would still shut off under a lfull oad for extended periods of time and at idle when temps are above 95ish
-stock gauge never moves from just below center (except first trip to colorado...pre ron davis, went about 1/16th above center)
-installed new auto meter gauge and holly crap! there is no way I have been runnning that hot for over two years?

I don't know what to do next...I love my cruiser but this is rediculous...every time I try going on a trip with the air temp above 90 I have to turn around because no AC (don't want to kill the dogs) and fear of boiling out.

I am almost to the point of sneaking the Duramax out of the GMC into the 80

 

[Taz]

sender is taped into the top left coolant neck

 

[MTNRAT]

Call Cdan and get a 1994 3-core brass radiator. Your story sounds somewhat like mine. I can now pull a 3500lb boat up steep mtn passes with the AC on full. At the same time do a full flush with the heater wide open and refill with toyota red only. This has been the solution for many of us. If you do a search you will find alot of info on this. It seems the radiators are prone to sludge that is not readily apparent. I think these beasts need to be fully flushed on a regular basis. It is especially important to have your cooling system operating in top condition when you are supercarged. A new rad may seem alot, but it is way cheaper than the possible alternative.
Cheers,
Sean

 

[Taz]

I already have a new (two years old) Ron Davis Masive dual 1"core radiator in it, just flushed it about two weeks ago...and put in 50/50 red anti-freeze and water...I thought this was better for cooling than 100% red?

 

[clownmidget]

Mark, you didn't mention installing a new fan clutch. Also, running a 75% water/25% mix would be better.

Also, do you get pinging under acceleration or when it reads really hot? You running anything along with the s/c - h20/meth injection, premium gas, etc. I suppose having a persistent lean condition could also have it running hot. Do you have a boost gauge and egt gauge?

 

[Taz]

parts I've changed over the last two years
I will try to do this a little clearer this time

-Collant Flush/compresion check
-TRD SC ..... Started getting hot (no AC)
-Ron Davis Radiatior ..... much better for a while although still would get hot
-Fan Clutch ...... helped alot with cooling (AC rarely cuts out with RPMs aboove 1800)
-Sealed around shroud ...... I don't know if this helped but it was a good effort
-Thermostat 180 (NAPA) ...... didn't seem to change anything
-Temp Gauge ...... This I shouldn't have done! I would rather of not known my TRUE temps.

I am wondering if there is a problem with my new gauge...doesn't it seem really hot for the AC to be cutting out at 240?? And why isn't my stock gauge moving until 230 (barely at that)?

 

[Taz]

No, I get no pinging...it just has a lot less power when warm/hot above 220. I always run 91 octane. No meth or water for me either.

 

[clownmidget]

If you're convinced your coolant system is all in order and that the gauge is accurately telling you the motor is running too hot then I'd look to other causes like fuel delivery or transmission fluid/problems.

The fuel stuff I mentioned above, but it's not a bad idea to make sure your fuel filter is good, your fuel pump is running to spec, and your injectors are clean and fxning properly. An EGT will help in this regard (as would an A/F gauge).

The other thought is that (at least in the stock radiator) the tranny oil circulates through a reservoir at the bottom of the radiator. It is possible to critically overheat your engine coolant by overheating your tranny oil. The "A/T" light indicating a overheated transmission fluid may or may not come on.

Again, just some thoughts. Hope you figure it out.

 

[smokethedog]

parts I've changed over the last two years
I will try to do this a little clearer this time

-Collant Flush/compresion check
-TRD SC ..... Started getting hot (no AC)
-Ron Davis Radiatior ..... much better for a while although still would get hot
-Fan Clutch ...... helped alot with cooling (AC rarely cuts out with RPMs aboove 1800)
-Sealed around shroud ...... I don't know if this helped but it was a good effort
-Thermostat 180 (NAPA) ...... didn't seem to change anything
-Temp Gauge ...... This I shouldn't have done! I would rather of not known my TRUE temps.

I am wondering if there is a problem with my new gauge...doesn't it seem really hot for the AC to be cutting out at 240?? And why isn't my stock gauge moving until 230 (barely at that)?

I just bought some obdII software/obdII connection for my pda (available for laptops as well). If you need an obdII reader, you might want to look at this. It allows you to monitor alot of things via the obdII connection, actual vehicle temp (digital display) being one of them, along with rpm's, o2 sensors, intake air temp, mph, display CEL codes and clear them, etc. This is the product I got:

http://www.autoenginuity.com/index.html

Kind of a spendy option for checking to see if your new temp gauge is accurate, but if your are in need of an obdII reader you might want to check this out.

I was suprised to see that my intake air temp his higher than I would have expected (high 90's when it's 60* outside).

One last thing, you may want to check out this thread if you determine that your new gauge is accurate and you are running hotter than expected. I have gotten the parts from CDan to do this, but havent had time to get them installed yet.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=55521&highlight=supercharger+fan

hth,
randall

 

[Beowulf]

Mark,
As Randall suggested, double check your new temp gauge with what your OBD-II is telling you. If both say you are running those temps then start improving the cooling system. If they disagree then, using the OEM temp gauge as the tie-breaker, return the new temp gauge and get another. FYI, the place you mounted the new temp sender is OK.

-B-

 

[cruiserdan]

This is not adding up correctly.

If your A/C is really cutting out AND the stock gauge is still in the middle either the cut-out switch is goofy or the gauge is goofy. In addition if the Autometer is indicating 230 AND the A/C is still functioning then the Autometer is goofy.

 

[Taz]

Thanks for all the help guys

I am thinking my temp gauge is bogus

-where does the OBDII sensor pick up coolant temp?
-what temp is the AC supposed to turn off at?

Just a side note: the air temp was around 70 here today and I was running at 198-210 (according to my auto meter) at 55-65 mph on the flat pulling a 1000 pound trailer. Note that is 20 degrees cooler air temp and engine temp compared to the other day when it was 90 outside. It seems my engine temp is directly effected by the ambient air temp.

 

[cruiserdan]

The A/C cuts out at 226 degrees F. and comes back on line at 217 degrees F.


D-

 

[MTNRAT]

Keep us posted with what you find.
Sean