Sunroof Stuck (1 Viewer)

[mike d]

I haven't driven my LC much in the last 10 years. It's been stored in an underground garage. I start it and move it around periodically, but it hasn't seen any rain, etc. I parked outside and it rained today, and I've got water on the headliner and the floor. I cleared the rocker drains, which were full of water, but it's still overflowing up top. So need to the clear the drain tubes. I attempted to open the sunroof, which I probably haven't done in forever, and it's stuck. I can hear the motor start and stop instantly. I attempted to use the manual screw behind the switch panel. The screw was hard to turn, then it seemed come loose and start backing out with zero resistance, like it's just going to unscrew from it's post and drop. Any suggestions on how to get this moving without breaking anything? I assume if I can somehow get it moving a little, I can lube up the tracks. The windows, tailgate, etc, were very stiff, but are perfect now after some lube and exercise.


Thanks in advance.

Mike

 

[ppc]

What happens now when you try to use the motor. The manual method is going to take many revolutions to get movement.

 

[mike d]

I hear the motor run for a split second then it stops. I read that it has a protection feature to stop it in the case of an obstruction. Supposedly the protection can by bypassed by holding the switch in the close position for 30 seconds, but that did not seem to work either. Not even sure if that feature is on a 97. Either way, it must be really stuck. I can attempt to keep turning the screw, but it really feels like it's just loosening, and it will come out all the way. I'm afraid it I unscrew it, and it comes out, I won't be able to get it back in. I'd really like to avoid dropping the headliner and the entire sunroof assembly. I never have used it, except to clear the drains a few times over the years.

I had one victory today though. The A/C wasn't working when I took it out of storage. I tried to top it off. When the compressor finally kicked in, it sounded like everything was going to explode under the hood: squealing, banging, grinding, smoke cloud, and burning smells. I replaced the tensioner pulley, tensioner bolt (which instantly snapped upon removal), and new belt. I fired it up today, it was quiet as a mouse, topped off the refrigerant, and it's ice cold!

I should have started a thread on the revival. Items replaced so far: alternator, fuel pump, belts and tensioners. Still to do this week: calipers, pads, rear latch mechanism, and antenna mast. I was anticipating A/C compressor, condenser, and drier. So very happy today.

 

[mike d]

I yanked the drain hoses from the bottom and fished them with stiff wire. I don't know if that's going to do it, because they seemed totally clear up to the top. I rerouted the drain hoses through the drain plugs in the floor and sealed them in the holes with self fusing splicing tape. Fingers crossed this has cleared it, but I really need to get this roof open. I tried turning the manual crank screw more, and it did totally come out. Fortunately, I was able to get it back in. I tried turning it at the same time as holding the button down and the screw still just comes loose. I've pushed as hard as I've felt comfortable both upward and downward while holding down the button, and it will not budge. I'm really stuck now. Maybe I can red loctiite the screw in place and try again?

One other annoying thing I noticed. After I held the button down for a about 20 seconds one time, the battery light came on, and hasn't gone off since. I thought I may have just run the battery low, but I've run the truck since, and fully charged the new battery with a charger. The light is still stuck on.

 

[mike d]

I gave up on making this roof work, and just concentrated on fixing the leaks. The brass flathead screw behind the switch panel seems to attach the motor drive to the rotating assembly. Removing this screw would probably allow you to physically pull the roof open and closed without the resistance of the motor. I'm not sure it's intended to be a manual drive screw. Although, it could work that way in closing the roof. Since closing the roof's rotation is clockwise. It would probably be quicker to remove the screw and push the roof closed manually? Mine is so stuck, I couldn't move it at all. Opening with this screw is an impossibility, it will just loosen and back out completely. With the motor drive disconnected from the rotating assembly, the motor would spin freely in the opening direction.

At this point, I decided to remove the roof to clear the drains. I removed each interior side trim piece. These should be pried at their tabs and pulled directly downwards. Mine were so brittle they cracked by merely touching them. After they are removed, you can remove the six 10mm nuts which secure the glass to the frame, and lift it off the vehicle. There will be shims between the glass and frame. Note the quantity and placement of the shims. I then used a hose, dish soap, and wire to thoroughly clean the drain hoses. Which are now routed out, and sealed to, the drain holes in the floor.

I also decided that I wanted the roof completely sealed to eliminate any leakage or wind noise. I cleaned the roof seal and metal edge of the body with mineral spirits. Then ran Scotch 2228 mastic electrical tape around the body opening. I ran it completely flush with the top edge to avoid having to trim any excess. I then dropped in the roof, placing the shims back in their previous locations, and slowly worked it into the opening. Making sure not to push down the mastic tape. The roof eventually slid all the way in, sealed very tightly on all sides. I then replaced the nuts, and have a completely sealed roof. This is easily reversible If I ever decide to fix the roof. Since I've never used the roof, and I never have to worry about clearing the drains again. It will likely stay this way permanently.

Scotch 2228 is a few mm thick, pliable, and works very well as a gasket/sealer. This is the type of tape you wrap around electrical splices, and can be kneeded into a blob of rubber around the connection. A 10 foot roll is enough to seal the opening, with some left over to touch up any other leaking spots.