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Thank you for this write up! I did this today- not as slick as yours- I did the bends on my work bench- but it came out ok! And sounds a lot better than it did before.
I'd have to take a measurement but I'd say it's less then 5 inches in depth. Not as deep as the bracket itself. Panel fits over it just fine. The mounting points from the speaker to the bracket were a little tricky but able to be worked out. I mounted it upside down to more easily be able to access the controls and keep the electonics out of the water longer if I ever get stuck submerged.Hey @Haspin FJ, I got @I Lean's bracket too but haven't gotten around to installing it.
Does the Cerwin Vega (it's 5" deep, right?) allow the plastic body panel to fit over it???
I've gotten a few questions about how I bent this bracket...here's the method that works for me. Different brakes might be able to do things differently. Mine is a box and pan brake with removable fingers, very similar to this stolen-from-the-internet picture:
![]()
In this case, I needed to remove just one finger section, exact position doesn't matter. I also had to remove the angle iron stiffener on the front. Then follow the bend order in this diagram:
http://s87.photobucket.com/user/cbwhitmore/media/Cruiser%20stuff/Sub%20Bracket%20Bend%20order_zpsygzgphyz.png.html][/URL]
Bends #2 and #5 are around 70 degrees, (to match the gusset that gets welded in) #7 is more like 20-30 degrees. I didn't measure or mark the bend location for #7, I just did that by hand when fitting it into place. The rest are 90 degree bends.
Bends #1, 2, 3 all bend "down" when you're viewing the piece as it's oriented in the drawing. So the piece of metal will be in the brake with the back side facing up. Then #4, 5, and 6 bend "up", so flip the piece over so the front side is up to complete them. Bend #7 is much easier and less critical, so I did it in the vehicle with hand tools.
After bending, the only remaining step is to weld in the gusset--make sure it's all the way out to the edge so it doesn't interfere with the subwoofer box...I only gave it like 1/4" of space. (if using the same Rockford Fosgate box I did) Test-fit and fine tune the bends if needed to make the holes line up, paint and finish as desired.
Final step is to post pictures here of what you did.![]()
I measured the factory bracket, and measured where the additional holes were in the truck, and drew the hole pattern in CAD. Cut out a flat sample piece out of thin 20ga steel on my plasma table to verify the hole locations. I adjusted them appropriately, then added the space to allow for the bends, and recessing the sub-mount part back to where it needs to be. That part was a little harder than it should have been, since the sub is recessed more at the bottom than it is at the top. (3D modeling software would have made things easier, I suspect) Then cut this version from 16ga steel, bent it up, and weld in the gusset you can see up top.
Yes, all in one unit.
I can make you one, especially if you're local to me (SLC, UT area). Shipping one might be more hassle than it's worth, but I can provide the .dxf file if you want to have it cut/bent locally...
Would you mind sending me that dxf file as well. Your inbox is full so let me know how you want to get my email address
Thanks
I’d be interested in and am in the SLC area. Let me know cost.
***updated: sent***I've read through this thread but didn't see mention of a way to buy the bracket, only to get the .dxf file and have a bracket cut bent locally. Is that right or is it possible to order one of these brackets from @I Lean or someone else? If the bracket can be ordered what's the price on it?
Any suggestions on finding a place to do the work using the .dxf file if that's the best route to go?
Thanks