SUA + SR + OME = 35s and a smooth ride?

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So, I have been struggling for some time with my ride. Is it a wheeling truck, a long haul truck? Can I make it both?

In trying to make it both I got 34" TrXus M/Ts and a 1" body lift. It already had OME heavy/medium suspension. It rides well with the combo but after about 5 or 7 thousand miles and some decent wheeling the tires are terribly out of balance and long trips have become a bear as the wheel just shakes and shakes and shakes no matter what I do.

So, I have a MAF shackle reversal in the basement. I am thinking of putting that on, getting some nice 35x12.5 BFG A/Ts and using those as my DD tires thinking that they will hold true better than any Intercos. Then, get some 34x10.5 Super Swamper LTBs for the trail. In reality, I only wheel about 4x a year when I would need tires like that so swiching is not that big of a deal.

I already have SS extended brake lines.

My question is, Will I need to lengthen my D shafts or anything with the OMEs and the shackle reversal?

Here are some pics of how the truck sits now:

front.jpg

dside.jpg

pass_side.jpg
 
Swapping to trail tires is a good idea IMO, especially since the TRX's wear so quickly.

Before getting into all that, the SR is going to lift the front end about 1.5".
What are your plans for lifting the rear?

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jwest said:
What are your plans for lifting the rear?

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MAF 4+ shackles, is that not enough? that is what the recommend...
 
In their full SR spring package, they use 4" lifted springs in the rear and 2" lifted springs + the SR in front.

To get the addtional 1.5" in the back just through shackles you need to add 3" in shackle length.

How much lift are your springs all ready giving you? Looks a little higher than 2 1/2" plus the 1" body lift?

.
 
Forget the SR. An SR takes more than it gives. Just put the new tires on it (or rebalance you current ones).

OMEs don't normally flex a real lot so you probably will be okay for slip joint even with the SR. Only way to be sure would be to do the mod and then get the rig crossed up and flexed real well to see how much engagement you have.



Mark...
 
Well, without advocating either way, if you do an SR, you'll need to either lower the front or raise the rear.

There also... might, be an issue with the ARB bumper mounting, though I'm not positive.

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regardless of what you do with the lift, tires, etc., throw 6 oz. of BBs in the tires and you'll be good to go as far as balancing. I've been doing that for a few years now and it works amazingly well. That way, even if you get chunks out of the tires, they'll stay balanced.

If you want, search here and on pirate for more info about it.
 
i think the old man emu susp is a 2.5" lift. the MAF 4+ shackles are huge. have you ever seen those things? they are over 6" long. insane.

regarding the ARB, i posted here in another thread and lots of people said it would not be a problem. i thought it would but i guess not.

my next question is, what does the SR take?
 
I have hear multiple different reasons on SR or not to SR. You have ot jusge for yourself on that one.
I decided not to go SR b/c I heard that SR was better on a SOA rig. And that it was not best for a SUA rig??

I hope to run 35's myself. I am running 4" Alcans. (should be done this week!) I am going to see if they will fit and if not I am going to get a small BL, but hope I dont have to.

Let us know what you decide. And Why.
 
Shackle Reversals originated as a means of improving the sometimes scary handling caused by ill-maintenance or simply worn out steering components, in addition to the choppy ride that's natural to leaf-sprung SWB rigs.

I'm sure we can debate the pros and cons, an argument that has raged for YEARS in the Land Cruiser community (at least since I first made contact with the TLCA 13 years ago and from reading old copies of TT, many years before that), but we're not going to get to an objective solution to it.

IMNSHO, I don't think a SR is a great advantage in a 60 series wagon. But the available SR kits, whether they offer a ride improvement or not, do have a secondary "benefit", they add a bit of lift in the front, from 1" to 1.5" in most cases.

If you combine that effect with longer rear shackles (meaning, longer than stock, longer than OMEs or HFS or Dakars) and one of the available lift kits, you'll end up with additional lift, enough to allow you to run 35's.

The ride will vary depending on the kit you used, the weight of the truck, and a bunch of other factors.

Some people have expressed concerns about the length of the d-shaft, but I don't have any direct experience. I would definitely watch the potential loss of approach angle from having the front spring mounts hang lower than stock with a SR kit, and potential faster wear of the rear springs with the taller shackles exerting more force on the back end of the springs.

I debated this possibility for a LONG time, then decided that I wanted not just the ability to stuff 35's under the truck, but better articulation and a better ride as well.
 
really? ive never heard that, are you talking BB's like a BB gun? cool trick. . . _Dylan

TMAN_FJ60 said:
regardless of what you do with the lift, tires, etc., throw 6 oz. of BBs in the tires and you'll be good to go as far as balancing. I've been doing that for a few years now and it works amazingly well. That way, even if you get chunks out of the tires, they'll stay balanced.

If you want, search here and on pirate for more info about it.
 
CaliCruiser said:
really? ive never heard that, are you talking BB's like a BB gun? cool trick. . . _Dylan
Yup, BBs as in a BB gun. I would use copper or zinc-plated ones, to avoid any rust issues you might have with plain steel ones.

It's the same concept as the "Equal" balancing powder that some company makes. For whatever reason, the BBs move towards the light spots on the tire, and are held there by centrifugal force.
 
How bout pulling one of the leaves out of the leaf pack in the rear to bring it back down to stock ride height. The spring over the rear and french the shackle through the frame gaining that 4" in the rear and the ride/ flex of SOA.

Chris
 
Exiled said:
I would definitely watch the potential loss of approach angle from having the front spring mounts hang lower than stock with a SR kit, and potential faster wear of the rear springs with the taller shackles exerting more force on the back end of the springs.

You will not loose approach angle from a SR kit. Your front spring hanger is in the same position in relation to the ground as it would be on a stock hanger.

I would also argue that a SR is better with a lift spring than a stock spring regardless of SUA or SOA.

SR is the next major mod that will be done on my 60. I am very happy with the ride improvement it provided for my 40.
 
My 2 cents if its worth anything.


the 34" intercos will measure out to be about the same as a 35" A/t. I personally dont really see the need for a SR on a 60, that and it is much easier to swap tires than re-work your current setup. Good luck brotha.

a 35 " A/t's lil more than likely to be a 33" tire in reality.
 
Last edited:
lowtideride said:
My 2 cents if its worth anything.


the 34" intercos will measure out to be about the same as a 35" A/t. I personally dont really see the need for a SR on a 60, that and it is much easier to swap tires than re-work your current setup. Good luck brotha.

a 35 " A/t's ill more than likely be a 33" in reality.
thanks man ... the reason i want to go back to the BFG ATs is because i want a smooooooooooother ride on long trips then hook up the LTBs for wheeling...
 
There you go Al. Way to not over-analize. I agree though, a 35" all-terrain will probably measure the same as those LTBs.

Chris
 
peepers said:
thanks man ... the reason i want to go back to the BFG ATs is because i want a smooooooooooother ride on long trips then hook up the LTBs for wheeling...
I dont blame ya. I drive Velveeta Wag 400 miles a shes not really that small of a rig. I like that I can take it anywhere. It still is loud on the highway but im sure its a hell of a lot smoother & not as loud as any Interco.
 

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