Stumped on a noise from LR wheel area on LX450 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 11, 2019
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Location
Cincinnati
Hey all,

So last Saturday I spent some good time with my 80, continuing on through sorting various items out. Finally got to the end of my [rather lengthy] list and a noise has now cropped up which has me, at least, temporarily scratching my head. Only in forward driving, not in reverse whatsoever, I get sort of a metallic “clonk” from the left rear wheel about once every rotation.

Certain that a brake shoe retaining spring had perhaps failed, I stripped down the LR brake and nothing at all was amiss behind the disc. I should mention that on the day this noise popped up, I had performed a brake fluid flush and greasing of the UJs and topping off the knuckles with moly grease, so I didn’t, in effect, “touch” the rear brakes or hub otherwise. The rig was up on a two post lift for all the work so everything was unladen during the brake flush (if that matters due to the LSPV—I was unsure if that needed to have some load on the rear axle or not, regardless, the brakes feel fine, much better than they did prior to the fluid replacement). Anyhow, all I can think is maybe just by coincidence a bearing locknut came loose or a U-J yoke cracked (haven’t gotten round to inspecting any of that lot yet).

One last idea is that the PO had the master cyl replaced (AISIN brand) and I wonder if they didn’t get the rear brakes bled well and now that I’ve done a proper flush and [re] bleed with some good DOT 4 and have the rear brakes operating well now, maybe the caliper is causing the rotor to come ever so slightly out of kilter (the noise seems to get more pronounced when the brakes are applied) and causing a contact issue.

Anyhow, figured I’d bounce this off the consortium. See if anyone else has experienced something similar.

Thanks in advance!!

Aaron
 
Did you have your parking brake set when you installed the rear wheels?

If so, remove the LR wheel, release the parking brake, make sure the rotor is seated at the PB is not dragging, then install the wheel and make sure you tighten in 3 steps, torquing across in a star pattern.

Also check to make sure there's not a wheel weight dragging the caliper.
 
Did you have your parking brake set when you installed the rear wheels?

If so, remove the LR wheel, release the parking brake, make sure the rotor is seated at the PB is not dragging, then install the wheel and make sure you tighten in 3 steps, torquing across in a star pattern.

Also check to make sure there's not a wheel weight dragging the caliper.
Thanks. Parking brake was not set. I did verify plenty of clearance between the wheel weight and the caliper.
 
Thanks. Parking brake was not set. I did verify plenty of clearance between the wheel weight and the caliper.
You don't have the s***ty chrome wheels do you?

I do and the chrome peels and drags on the caliper until it comes off.
 
Hey all,

So last Saturday I spent some good time with my 80, continuing on through sorting various items out. Finally got to the end of my [rather lengthy] list and a noise has now cropped up which has me, at least, temporarily scratching my head. Only in forward driving, not in reverse whatsoever, I get sort of a metallic “clonk” from the left rear wheel about once every rotation.

Certain that a brake shoe retaining spring had perhaps failed, I stripped down the LR brake and nothing at all was amiss behind the disc. I should mention that on the day this noise popped up, I had performed a brake fluid flush and greasing of the UJs and topping off the knuckles with moly grease, so I didn’t, in effect, “touch” the rear brakes or hub otherwise. The rig was up on a two post lift for all the work so everything was unladen during the brake flush (if that matters due to the LSPV—I was unsure if that needed to have some load on the rear axle or not, regardless, the brakes feel fine, much better than they did prior to the fluid replacement). Anyhow, all I can think is maybe just by coincidence a bearing locknut came loose or a U-J yoke cracked (haven’t gotten round to inspecting any of that lot yet).

One last idea is that the PO had the master cyl replaced (AISIN brand) and I wonder if they didn’t get the rear brakes bled well and now that I’ve done a proper flush and [re] bleed with some good DOT 4 and have the rear brakes operating well now, maybe the caliper is causing the rotor to come ever so slightly out of kilter (the noise seems to get more pronounced when the brakes are applied) and causing a contact issue.

Anyhow, figured I’d bounce this off the consortium. See if anyone else has experienced something similar.

Thanks in advance!!

Aaron
Check the emergency brake cable connection in the middle of the two wheels. There is a short emergency cable that goes to the rear passenger side wheel. Where that cable connects might be stuck . It needs to be able to move
left and right freely. If it doesn't move freely the return springs on the outside of the wheel won't pull back evenly. And it leaves the emergency brake cable as if the emergency brake was still on. A quick way to check is to see if the emergency brake cable stop adjustment screw that are on the outside of the wheel or at the same distance away from the metal shield. If the center Linking moves freely then the return springs that are on the outside of the wheel are two week and don't allow the emergency brake pads to close and get out of the way of the drum. also the bar that is going into the emergency brake brake system that is covered with the rubber piece on the outside might be stuck move it with your hand to make sure it moves freely back and forth. I need to replace my return springs that are on the outside because even now that my center connection is somewhat movable it still doesn't pull the cable so that it takes tension off of the pads. If I put on my emergency brake ,before I start to drive I have to crawl under the truck and Hammer the adjustment screw towards the metal plate so that it's even with the other side or I hear the clicking sound. My center emergency cable connection that's in the middle of both wheels is rusted really bad and I had to take a hammer penetrating oil and Hammer it back and forth a hundred times before it would even move a little bitso I think I'm going to take that apart and put nylon washers above and below it to see if they'll help it move freely.if what I typed doesn't make any sense let me know and I'll take some pictures what I'm talkin about. Now that I know what's causing the clicking it's a easy fix to hammer it over but I need to fix it right,this has been going on for over a year it's time to fix it.
 
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Well, to add an update to the thread, I removed both rear wheels and noticed that if I grab the caliper on the LR wheel and try to “rock” it, it has some movement as opposed to the RR caliper so maybe the bracket or pins are worn/ovaled and causing play. Will report back more with what I find once I strip it down further.
 

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