Stumbled upon a '40, questions to ensue. (1 Viewer)

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Joined
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Location
SW MO, NE OK, and NW AR
Gentleman,

Bought my first FJ40 yesterday. Long story short, guy was liquidating his farm so they could move to the city and my farm bought it all. As I was loading/hauling out one of the trailers, I noticed this beautiful 40. The guy kept calling it "Jeep" and sold it without a title for... Well... I feel guilty, that should be enough.

I have always wanted a '40, as my dad restored my uncles for him as I was growing up. This is an awesome deal for me. But... I'm not familiar with the 40 enough to know whether it should be made to run and driven, restored, or is it so far gone parting it is my only option?

Wiring is toast, has SBC350 and downey trans adapter. In the back is a newer 295/75r16 bfg, everything to do a power steering conversion, and a couple pair of overalls.

Without further ado, photos!

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I'm not a big fan of the diamond plate sides, but the backside of those panels doesn't look bad so I may be surprised when I tear them off. The worst spots for rust are the rear seal, under the driver seat (pictured), and the driver rear fender where the roll bar mounts. I've found tons of stuff in it that specifies it was in CA until '92ish.
 
If you got it for under $500 you did ok IMO. Truthfully, I'd consider it a parts truck if it fell into my lap. All that diamond plate is hiding rust, or it has replaced the existing rotted 1/4"s. That's not necessarily a bad thing if you are looking to build a wheeling rig, but if your plan is to do a complete resto I'd consider it a parts truck to help you along the way.

Whatever you decide we are here to help:cheers:.
 
:cheers:

and, the bezel is upside down ;)
 
MN tags?

Location?

Picked it up in AR





If you got it for under $500 you did ok IMO. Truthfully, I'd consider it a parts truck if it fell into my lap. All that diamond plate is hiding rust, or it has replaced the existing rotted 1/4"s. That's not necessarily a bad thing if you are looking to build a wheeling rig, but if your plan is to do a complete resto I'd consider it a parts truck to help you along the way.

Whatever you decide we are here to help:cheers:.

I think pulling the panels will decide its fate. I don't have the time or finances to do anything immediately. I will probably pull the sides , spray it out, coat it in rust converter, and store it in the dry until time and finances free up.
 
From what I can see, that's a lot more than a parts truck... The one unknown is the frame. Most likely the frame is ok, but if it's confetti then part it.

Rear 1/4s are only 150ish a piece. I see a lot more than I started with. I'd say Restomod... you'd be better off with a nicer truck to start a true restoration.
 
I agree, the frame is the key ... assuming the frame's okay, body off resto/mod which means time, but not necessarily a fortune ... looks like its sat for a while, so why not a while longer while its soaking, and you're accumulating parts ...
:cheers:
 
Frame has visible surface rust but nothing see through. Ground has been moist so I haven't crawled around under it.

I finally moved my current resto-mod out of the garage, now to put the interior back in!
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Old runners are so freaking cool!

The 40 doesnt look too bad compared to the rust bucket I started with. As far as $ and parts are concerned I just did what I could while I saved, traded, stole and begged for the crap I needed. If youre not concerned about doing a total back to stock restoration youll be surprised what some out of the box thinking can get you...

Good luck.

D
 
Assuming the motor turns and the frame is solid, why not get it running and bomb around the farm a bit to get your feet wet? Aftermarket wiring harnesses are available under $200 or score a used one for even less. Adapt one from something else (carb, no computer, not that tough). Wouldn't even consider restoring it (returning it to stock) or pulling that diamond plate off (that's probably all that is holding the tub together) but it would make a great beater. Big fun, small bux. Alternatively, looks like it's about 1976, check for a disc brake front end. You have a few nice parts there ... Can't wait to see what you do with it. GL!
 
Lots of good parts there if it's a good power train then keep for the parts and find a body to stick on there. Sheet metal work is a pain but that's how I got good at welding on my 40. Because your not in a hurry and I assume you got the space just keep an eye out for parts and build a kick ass rig in the near future


...via IH8MUD app
 
Assuming the motor turns and the frame is solid, why not get it running and bomb around the farm a bit to get your feet wet? Aftermarket wiring harnesses are available under $200 or score a used one for even less. Adapt one from something else (carb, no computer, not that tough). Wouldn't even consider restoring it (returning it to stock) or pulling that diamond plate off (that's probably all that is holding the tub together) but it would make a great beater. Big fun, small bux. Alternatively, looks like it's about 1976, check for a disc brake front end. You have a few nice parts there ... Can't wait to see what you do with it. GL!

Its a '75, has drums at all four corners. I have a set of mini truck knuckles with disc brakes on them. Should swap fairly easy, eh? Not sure on the motor, I dont think it has much chance. There is a dirtdobber fortress in the passenger valve cover currently.The transmission is REALLY hard to move into gear. Whats up with the downey adapter? Good product?

Lots of good parts there if it's a good power train then keep for the parts and find a body to stick on there. Sheet metal work is a pain but that's how I got good at welding on my 40. Because your not in a hurry and I assume you got the space just keep an eye out for parts and build a kick ass rig in the near future


...via IH8MUD app

I can burn some metal! The metal work doesn't scare me. Not much does anymore when it comes to vehicles.

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Minitruck knuckles make for god front discs. The Downey piece looks like a floor shift conversion on a three speed conversion. There is likely a plate conversion between the transmission and bel housing. The saddle mount conversion for the front motor mount tends to interfere with Saginaw powersteering conversions.

I'd swap in a four speed and a 2F out of a 60, and ditch the three speed. Or keep the V8 and ditch the three speed, and use your transmission of choice.

One option would be to go to a centered rear axle and the Transfercase options open up a lot also.
 

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