Studs Vs. Bolts

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C

cmilliron

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I have a LC that has disc brakes F/R with ASCO "Deep" hub locks F/R.

On the rear hub, the Hub Lock is mounted to the hub with (6) standard metric bolts (the cone washers are used with these bolts). The cone washers come right off with the bolts.

On the front hub, the Hub Lock is mounted with studs that remain in the hub and nuts secure the Hub Lock.

Now, having taken apart both, the front took 10x times as long to dissasemble as the rear..!!! Getting those little cone washer off the studs is a pain....

If the front has to be removed more frequently (broken birfields), why would I not convert the front hub to match the rear...??? Is there something else I'm missing..??

Cliff
Lodi, CA
 
woody

woody

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studs are stronger....normally, the threads in the hub are coarse spline, and the outer-portion of the stud is fine spline. The torque loading on the fine threads is higher, and front bolts tend to loosen up (studs normally don't).

Someone will know more technical stuff on that, but IMO keep the studs.
 
C

cmilliron

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OK, I see your point about thread pitch and connector stregth... following that logic, should I convert the rear hubs to studs..??? and then is there a better way to get those cone washers out...??? on mine, on half of the washers, the split was oriented toward the axle, which made getting a tool lined up with the split challenging. Then I had to grind down a little chisel about three times to get 12 cones out... good thing I wasn't on the trail the first time, I probably would have left the d*mn thing sit there...

Why could I not machine one piece nuts with the cone built in..??? Imagine a long nut (similar to a rod connector nut) with the one end turned on the lathe to match the shape of the "funnel" in the hub... replace the existing studs with a short shoulder between coarse and fine thread..


Think of the advantages,

1. removal effortless
2. strength, it would nearly double the total amount of fine thread contact area
 
woody

woody

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I would convert the rear to studs. I've done a few things with studs already, including my AA t-case mount and (soon) the spindle.

The tapered split washer must remain separate....part of it's strength is in it's ability to expand and keep the lockout in place. Plus, you'd have to figure out a lockwasher setup if the nut/cone were one piece.

A brass hammer is critical for split-cone-washer removal. A good thwack usually pops them free, especially once they've been out once in the past 2 years...lol

You wouldn't hammer on the split anyways, that only expands it more. You want to strike it with the chisel 90* off from the split, to momentarily compress it and pop it loose.
 
bjowett

bjowett

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Woody has some good advice for you. I'd follow it, studs are far stronger and better at giving and keeping proper torque.... I once read that a bolt is a penny pinchers decision, a stud is an engineers. Go buy some nice new studs, even if they come from the dealer, you won't spend too much for that peace of mind.
 

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