Stud bolt rear differential with leak....................how big of job??? (2 Viewers)

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So the same clowns up here in Hillbilly Land that welded washers to the ends of my axles left me with another surprise; installing a bolt where a stud should be on the front of my rear diff where it meets the third member at the 6 o'clock position. Fortunately the studs are still available but not sure what size should be in this position? Toyota specs one that is 37mm long, another that is 50mm long; pn#'s 90116-10103 and 90116-10104. Any one know what length should be where I will install the new stud bolt? Also how involved a job is this? Remove 3rd member and axles I assume? Then if threads are wasted?? I have a leak where the Hillbillies installed the bolt with the blue tape on it. Other side has fresh gasket and no signs of any leak.
Stud1.jpg
Stud2.jpg
 
other than using a standard bolt, it could be used as a drain for the diff if the plug underneath the axle is unusable.

no need to remove axles or diff. I'd remove, check threads maybe run a tap thru the hole, if good then either bolt or stud.
if bad tap to a bigger size? either sae or metric, flush diff and your good, use bolt for drain.
 
Use the 37mm studs. The longer ones go where the housing is stepped. No 3rd member removal required.
If the threads are trashed you should be able to try and clean them from the outside with a tap or thread chaser. Whatever you do, you'll need to drain the diff, so if you're careful you shouldn't get anything significant in the housing.
 
If it's holding, not leaking, why change it? Some run a bolt there, that stud tends to get buggered from rock contact. Remove the tape and shoot another pic, that looks like a standard, domestic thread bolt (grade hash mark)?
 
Yeah, I looked at the picture a little closer and something looks odd. What's the stuff all goobered around the bolt head?

2x on using bolts in the lower positions if you do any serious wheelin'.
 
Tools, yep it is leaking there....will be happy to get another pic when home later.
 
Sounds like you have a good plan there if its leaking. My guess is the threads are buggered up and you will have to decide what thread to go with.
 
One of the good things about using the OE studs is that they come with thread sealing compound already bonded to the stud, so it won't leak until you're done. By the same token, it also makes it more difficult to install. My stud pullers don't have any problem pulling out the old studs, but when I tried to use one to install a new OE stud, it galled the threads badly.

IOW: Double nut for installation.

x3 on concern they've cross-threaded an SAE bolt in there. Some guys have all the luck.
 
Mark I think I have had more than my fair share......here's to hoping I get lucky this time and don't need to pull the third member to fix the leak:(:beer:
 
One of the good things about using the OE studs is that they come with thread sealing compound already bonded to the stud, so it won't leak until you're done. By the same token, it also makes it more difficult to install. My stud pullers don't have any problem pulling out the old studs, but when I tried to use one to install a new OE stud, it galled the threads badly.

IOW: Double nut for installation.

x3 on concern they've cross-threaded an SAE bolt in there. Some guys have all the luck.
Glad you mentioned the OE studs that come pre-doped. I have some I was planning to install this weekend. In your opinion, do they seal well assuming the threads are clear and clean? Any need for additional sealant?
 
Nice to know about the dope on the studs, thanks for your input Mark!
 
Not the third member.................but the Hillbilly's left there mark on it years ago with my current situation!
 

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