- Thread starter
- #21
I ended up at Napa did just that. I used traditional style hose clamps to secure things. How crucial is the spiral wrap? Napa didn’t have any, so I went without.
Stuck side of road…transmission won’t engage (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter blan09
- Start date
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As long as its not rubbing on anything you'll be ok. If there's contact somewhere then it wouldn't' hurt to add some protection to the hose.
That's what I get for posting while half asleep! The hell of it is I later remembered repairing a ruptured hose in my '94 that turned out to be the OP's same sliced open hose. I'll go back to staying out of tech again!
I used foam copper pipe insulation zip tied tight in the areas where chaffing is likely, works good.
You can also slit a larger ID piece of hose in a spiral, then slip it over the main hose and it won't fall off, but covers it for chafing.
- Thread starter
- #26
I have some copper pipe insulation in the garage. Good call, that will work well.
i think i just experienced the same thing. could use some feedback.
driving my daughter to school, about a mile out on a 2 lane road going ~30mph, i caught a wisp of smoke in the rear view mirror. engine temp was at 190* and no lights on the dash. watched it for the next couple hundred yards as I came to a T intersection. As I was turning onto another 2 lane road, the transmission slipped up to 2k rpm but caught and accelerated like it should. only had a couple hundred more yards to the school parking lot, which was actually the closest pull off spot too. i did shift into L to help get up the slight hill to the parking lot, and the trans starting slipping really bad. i parked it once i got out of traffic and where a flat bed could get to me, and jumped out leaving the truck running in P, and the whole under carriage was coated. popped the hood and the whole front of the motor was dripping and pooled on the skid plate. i shut the motor off and over the next 10 mins a 2' diameter puddle formed on the ground under the bumper. ATF everywhere down the drivers side all the way back to the rear wheel. AAA towed me the 4mi home where the truck sits dripping onto cardboard. as i was in work clothes, i didn't do any real investigation but nothing was obviously visible other than the greatest source of the leak is the bottom drivers side corner of the radiator.
full disclosure: in the last 30 days I replaced the radiator (TYC), and last Thurs the power steering pump (OE) and all associated lines. i've been driving the truck around town everyday since, and even checked the trans dip stick on Sunday, and everything looked good until this morning. i did not replace any of the transmission cooler hoses when i did the radiator, as nothing looked crusty and old. but i'm thinking i weakened something while wrestling w/ the PS pump and lines.
so first, do you think i could have done any damage to the trans? about as fast as i realized what was happening, i was looking for a safe place to park it. less than 5mins and 2mi travelled. no lights on the instrument cluster (if there are any?). the previous owner replaced it within the last year w/ a known good used trans by a very reputable cruiser shop. the reman that was in there before didn't last but a couple years. i did run it through the gears trying to get off the 2 lane road (D, 2, L) and then R in the parking lot. that seemed to really make it puke the ATF out.
second, i've seen reference to replacing all the factory rubber with 3/8" line from Napa, and hose clamps. hopefully they aren't out, as i was just there last week and there is a national shortage on 1/2" and 5/8" heater hose. once i clean up the ATF disaster that is my engine bay and undercarriage, it SHOULD be VERY obvious what went wrong as the fluid got pumped out at a rapid pace. i haven't checked the dip stick yet but its probably dry?
other than the trans lines which connect to the radiator, is there another cooler and associated lines? i think behind the grille? 1995 if that matters
driving my daughter to school, about a mile out on a 2 lane road going ~30mph, i caught a wisp of smoke in the rear view mirror. engine temp was at 190* and no lights on the dash. watched it for the next couple hundred yards as I came to a T intersection. As I was turning onto another 2 lane road, the transmission slipped up to 2k rpm but caught and accelerated like it should. only had a couple hundred more yards to the school parking lot, which was actually the closest pull off spot too. i did shift into L to help get up the slight hill to the parking lot, and the trans starting slipping really bad. i parked it once i got out of traffic and where a flat bed could get to me, and jumped out leaving the truck running in P, and the whole under carriage was coated. popped the hood and the whole front of the motor was dripping and pooled on the skid plate. i shut the motor off and over the next 10 mins a 2' diameter puddle formed on the ground under the bumper. ATF everywhere down the drivers side all the way back to the rear wheel. AAA towed me the 4mi home where the truck sits dripping onto cardboard. as i was in work clothes, i didn't do any real investigation but nothing was obviously visible other than the greatest source of the leak is the bottom drivers side corner of the radiator.
full disclosure: in the last 30 days I replaced the radiator (TYC), and last Thurs the power steering pump (OE) and all associated lines. i've been driving the truck around town everyday since, and even checked the trans dip stick on Sunday, and everything looked good until this morning. i did not replace any of the transmission cooler hoses when i did the radiator, as nothing looked crusty and old. but i'm thinking i weakened something while wrestling w/ the PS pump and lines.
so first, do you think i could have done any damage to the trans? about as fast as i realized what was happening, i was looking for a safe place to park it. less than 5mins and 2mi travelled. no lights on the instrument cluster (if there are any?). the previous owner replaced it within the last year w/ a known good used trans by a very reputable cruiser shop. the reman that was in there before didn't last but a couple years. i did run it through the gears trying to get off the 2 lane road (D, 2, L) and then R in the parking lot. that seemed to really make it puke the ATF out.
second, i've seen reference to replacing all the factory rubber with 3/8" line from Napa, and hose clamps. hopefully they aren't out, as i was just there last week and there is a national shortage on 1/2" and 5/8" heater hose. once i clean up the ATF disaster that is my engine bay and undercarriage, it SHOULD be VERY obvious what went wrong as the fluid got pumped out at a rapid pace. i haven't checked the dip stick yet but its probably dry?
other than the trans lines which connect to the radiator, is there another cooler and associated lines? i think behind the grille? 1995 if that matters
I did a complete rebuild; finished 3 weeks ago. I replaced all hoses. For the transmission some OEM were available, but did a fair amount using hose from my local NAPA. They didn't mention any shortage of hoses.
Hopefully, you'll be up and running lickety split!
Keep us posted, please.
i'm hoping for something to be in stock other than 1/4" heater hose. and will need a gallon of degreaser and rags! or leave most of it as is and call it winter rust prevention (if ATF actually helps)
did you end up using one of those Unicoils for bending the rubber hose in front of the fan? the one linked earlier is not readily available on Amazon any longer, and figuring out which size correlates to 3/8" ID Continental hose isn't obvious. As I discovered w/ my PS hoses, the factory constant tension clamps are slightly too big for Conti Insta-Grip TC 3/8 hose, as I used it on my PS lines and have most of a box left of regular clamps from Napa I used instead.
Please everybody, for all that is holy, replace these lines when you pull your radiator! Not digging on jht3 because I aslo learned the hard way, but this is often the last straw for these old lines. My experience was similar in that they held on just long enough to get me stranded half way to moab. Bonus, atf covered my hood, roof, and tailgate and ate all the paint. I could've avoided all that for $20 and another half hour of work. Never pull the radiator and leave those lines unless you're VERY confident in them!
Just to remove the variable of the trans cooler hoses I'd plan on replacing them while the fluid is low and spilled everywhere. Then you can fill the transmission back up with fluid and check for leaks while it idles in the driveway. Then you can check and see if there is a leak in the radiator portion.
I have to tell you, that hose is one of the few that I did get as OEM, so the fit was a non-issue
wait, what? ATF is bad for paint? I know I will need to give everything a good scrub down b/c atf is everywhere, but this prioritizes cleaning the painted surfaces.
i'm leaning towards all 3/8" bulk hose, but out of curiosity, which one is it? it seems most are discontinued but i did find a $47 32941-60110 oil cooler inlet hose. the only other one available is a short one connecting to the external cooler.I have to tell you, that hose is one of the few that I did get as OEM, so the fit was a non-issue
you mean the two short ones between the radiator and external cooler behind the grille? trying to avoid pulling the radiator again, but the fan, battery box, and grille are simple enough.
I'd replace all of the transmission cooler hoses. I was able to do mine without removing the radiator, but I had to pull apart the grill, turn signal and remove the battery box.
You can change all of the transmission fluid lines without removing the radiator. As I recall, I had the driver's side headlight out and the plastic grille removed.
for sure all that is coming out. another thread talked about removing the rad, and the starter to access the hoses back there. did you change those as well?
thought i had this in my initial message, but and does anyone have a clean picture of the PS and Trans hose routing at the drivers frame rail? it is very cramped in there, and i don't want to assume i know which hose is on top of or in front of each other. and which one uses the clamp on the shroud. when tightening up the bolt holding the PS pressure line i struggled to get everything to fit nicely without any obvious chaffing, but i may have fallen short 
- Thread starter
- #40
There is a diagram of the hoses and location earlier in the string. I doubt you did any damage to the transmission. Obviously don’t drive it until you find the leak get it fixed.
