Stuck Retaining Bolts (Rear Differential Pinion Seal Replacement) (1 Viewer)

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How can you tell if it’s the crush sleeve leaking vs the seal? I feel like I got the replacement seal in there flush. But I can’t tell exactly where it’s leaking with everything back on the truck. I just see the drip coming from here:

View attachment 3338117



one thing i NEVER mentioned in the FULL floating AXLE thread is that rear DIFF should fit snug as a BUG in a SHAG CARPET rug ino a home depot 5 gallon bucket

i KNOW USPS WILL ship a 5 gallon bucket


the mission critical topic here is MAKE Dam sure , u remove ALL gear oil , like PURPLE POWER , power wash , the FAN dry right away at high speed


the whole idea of any gear oil leaking out of that 5 gallon bucket into a post office deliverey NON-TOYOTA vehicial is a bad idea


also , get the HUSKEY black traqsh bags home depot , wrap that puppy at least 3 times / 3 stand alone bags !


IF YOU CHEAT HERE AND CUT-corners here , THIS IMPORTANT Vapor Barrier step by step procedure , ??


i will sence it right away , via my inner TEq and know .....just know i know ,,,,:idea:

and this is 3 layers of the cheapest insurance policy you will ever buy ....



- NOTE here , and as important one too : i am absoluty 100 % both impressed and also humbled very much also right now after reviewing all your install procedure step by steps you documented , :popcorn: Excellent job ... A+


- i summerize based on all your posts that the freeplay your experiencing , was there prior to dissambly correct ?

- if this is the case , then YOU DID NOT over tighten the the hex nut and further CHRUSH the crush sleeve , ?

- am i correct on this key point here ?

- i would consider 2 options here evenly , BOTH involve your proximity to the world renound Georg at vally Hybrids

- price on a rebuild ,

- and also same moment @orangefj45 , about a VERIFIED Good condition Diff out of a
FRONT AXLE ONLY , not A REAR AXLE .../


-
A FRONT DIFF. IS BASICLY A NEAR nos bARN FIND , IN COMPARISON TO any REAR diff ...

-
why ???


- how many miles are on a front diff, under power and load hub dials turned compaired tgo a rear diff on average ?


- ohhhhhhhhhh , ill take a very well edcuated guess here .... 1000k miles to 1k at the very least .... more is more likley depending of the owner opereator past history of course ....

- this 1 sigle topiicx alone makes a pre-owned one via Georg with his vouching for it of course , i will conclude here and now a better use of you hard earned resources ...


- but mr. Georg has the final say and word here of course ......


- oh ????

- i did observe ONLY 1 single DEMERIT above worth noting : :confused:

- the use of ANY conventional Rear AXLE
simple-simon gear oil here , is a black-spot topic ,,,,,, bottom line ..

- the hard core science does NOT lie , INCANDESENT filiment bulbs in vehicals or our homes , are simply extinct now just like the flip type cell phones , with modern LED Technoligy at play , :idea::idea::idea:


- refer to your Viscosity Chart in your Owners manual it will spec. SAE 90 for your climate zome where you are ,

- NO BODY Makes a Full Synthetic SAE 90 , that much is a fact ...

- WHY ?>??


- because the 80W90 Full synthetic grear oil i installed in GHOST 's Rear Axle covers and superscedes that SAE 90 , becuause it purly That Dam better in every sence of the words .....


- in our Vintage TOYOTA Anything worlds here and there , is a Preservation Technique , once installed ,

- convential oils and greases will continue to wear and tear normally with normal driving , normaly ....


- right now june 15TH 2023 100% of all 2023 modle year TOYOTAs' vehicals sold here in the USA , are full synthetic ......


- gee ? i wonder why that is .........:popcorn:



-


 
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one thing i NEVER mentioned in the FULL floating AXLE thread is that rear DIFF should fit snug as a BUG in a SHAG CARPET rug ino a home depot 5 gallon bucket

i KNOW USPS WILL ship a 5 gallon bucket


the mission critical topic here is MAKE Dam sure , u remove ALL gear oil , like PURPLE POWER , power wash , the FAN dry right away at high speed


the whole idea of any gear oil leaking out of that 5 gallon bucket into a post office deliverey NON-TOYOTA vehicial is a bad idea


also , get the HUSKEY black traqsh bags home depot , wrap that puppy at least 3 times / 3 stand alone bags !


IF YOU CHEAT HERE AND CUT-corners here , THIS IMPORTANT Vapor Barrier step by step procedure , ??


i will sence it right away , via my inner TEq and know .....just know i know ,,,,:idea:

and this is 3 layers of the cheapest insurance policy you will ever buy ....



- NOTE here , and as important one too : i am absoluty 100 % both impressed and also humbled very much also right now after reviewing all your install procedure step by steps you documented , :popcorn: Excellent job ... A+


- i summerize based on all your posts that the freeplay your experiencing , was there prior to dissambly correct ?

- if this is the case , then YOU DID NOT over tighten the the hex nut and further CHRUSH the crush sleeve , ?

- am i correct on this key point here ?

- i would consider 2 options here evenly , BOTH involve your proximity to the world renound Georg at vally Hybrids

- price on a rebuild ,

- and also same moment @orangefj45 , about a VERIFIED Good condition Diff out of a
FRONT AXLE ONLY , not A REAR AXLE .../


-
A FRONT DIFF. IS BASICLY A NEAR nos bARN FIND , IN COMPARISON TO any REAR diff ...

-
why ???


- how many miles are on a front diff, under power and load hub dials turned compaired tgo a rear diff on average ?


- ohhhhhhhhhh , ill take a very well edcuated guess here .... 1000k miles to 1k at the very least .... more is more likley depending of the owner opereator past history of course ....

- this 1 sigle topiicx alone makes a pre-owned one via Georg with his vouching for it of course , i will conclude here and now a better use of you hard earned resources ...


- but mr. Georg has the final say and word here of course ......


- oh ????

- i did observe ONLY 1 single DEMERIT above worth noting : :confused:

- the use of ANY conventional Rear AXLE
simple-simon gear oil here , is a black-spot topic ,,,,,, bottom line ..

- the hard core science does NOT lie , INCANDESENT filiment bulbs in vehicals or our homes , are simply extinct now just like the flip type cell phones , with modern LED Technoligy at play , :idea::idea::idea:


- refer to your Viscosity Chart in your Owners manual it will spec. SAE 90 for your climate zome where you are ,

- NO BODY Makes a Full Synthetic SAE 90 , that much is a fact ...

- WHY ?>??


- because the 80W90 Full synthetic grear oil i installed in GHOST 's Rear Axle covers and superscedes that SAE 90 , becuause it purly That Dam better in every sence of the words .....


- in our Vintage TOYOTA Anything worlds here and there , is a Preservation Technique , once installed ,

- convential oils and greases will continue to wear and tear normally with normal driving , normaly ....


- right now june 15TH 2023 100% of all 2023 modle year TOYOTAs' vehicals sold here in the USA , are full synthetic ......


- gee ? i wonder why that is .........:popcorn:



-

That's right, the freeplay you see in the video above has been there since before I pulled anything apart. I do worry that I have been running the rear diff low on oil for some time, as I only noticed the leak once it was topped up. However, I've never seen/heard/felt any sign of a bad differential while driving. It was just the concern of having a leak that led me here.

I'm considering all of my options at the moment. I don't love the idea of shipping the diff 8 hours up the road but I also realize I don't have the time to joyride up there (young family and responsibilities at home). I have a trusted mechanic nearby that is going to take a look for me on Monday. I've also got a beat on a rear axle for $100 locally. I know that a front would be better, but I'm going to figure out how many miles are on this one and at least consider it for parts if needed.

To your last point, I'm using SAE 80w90 gear oil. Hopefully that's what you are recommending?
 
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That's right, the freeplay you see in the video above has been there since before I pulled anything apart. I do worry that I have been running the rear diff low on oil for some time, as I only noticed the leak once it was topped up. However, I've never seen/heard/felt any sign of a bad differential while driving. It was just the concern of having a leak that led me here.

I'm considering all of my options at the moment. I don't love the idea of shipping the diff 8 hours up the road but I also realize I don't have the time to joyride up there (young family and responsibilities at home). I have a trusted mechanic nearby that is going to take a look for me on Monday. I've also got a beat on a rear axle for $100 locally. I know that a front would be better, but I'm going to figure out how many miles are on this one and at least consider it for parts if needed.

To your last point, I'm using SAE 80w90 gear oil. Hopefully that's what you are recommending?


- the one aspect of this that sticks out like a sore thumb here is as you turn it back and forth , the pinion flange shifts inward then outward ?


- this would suggest 2 things i can think of right now :


- both the folks below also saw this @fjc-man and @too tall , also .. good eyes on both of them here also ,

- A PO type previous repair DID infact crush in too much the currect crush sleeve because they went past the original final Staked Nut location , as i go over that topic in detail in my full floating axle thread ...

- or the main pinion bearing and race are SMOKED hard core , hense the extra space inside there to do that , is way way bad bad ,

- @fjc-man , called it plan B , it is time to pull the diferential , and confirm inspect and verify ,


- before u do this , remove the bottom service drain plug , drain all the gear oil , but put that bottom plug in a zip lock clear bag right away , then in a open well lit area , wearing rubber examination gloves of course , get a plastic or wooden pop sickle stick , and take lots of before and after pics scrape off ALL the " Whatever " off that magnetic plug , show us what came off please


- the amount of that " stinky gearoil infused " nasty-ness " will tell a story of how long and so forth .....

- use all white paper towels too ....


- do u know any past history on that rear axle ?


was the hex nut / did it have 2 different staked locations ?

- i SMELL un-skilled human hands involvement in the past here , and i smell it strong too ?





That movement is too excessive, time for plan “B”. Pull the diff and have it rebuilt.
I'm pretty sure you squished the crush sleeve beyond the limit. Now the movement seems to indicate that there isn't enough space between the outer and inner pinion bearings. Tightening will only make it worse. Hence the reason why I always use solid pinion spacers. I don't think you'll get away with much either than replacing the crush sleeve or rebuilding with a solid spacer.
 
- the one aspect of this that sticks out like a sore thumb here is as you turn it back and forth , the pinion flange shifts inward then outward ?


- this would suggest 2 things i can think of right now :


- both the folks below also saw this @fjc-man and @too tall , also .. good eyes on both of them here also ,

- A PO type previous repair DID infact crush in too much the currect crush sleeve because they went past the original final Staked Nut location , as i go over that topic in detail in my full floating axle thread ...

- or the main pinion bearing and race are SMOKED hard core , hense the extra space inside there to do that , is way way bad bad ,

- @fjc-man , called it plan B , it is time to pull the diferential , and confirm inspect and verify ,


- before u do this , remove the bottom service drain plug , drain all the gear oil , but put that bottom plug in a zip lock clear bag right away , then in a open well lit area , wearing rubber examination gloves of course , get a plastic or wooden pop sickle stick , and take lots of before and after pics scrape off ALL the " Whatever " off that magnetic plug , show us what came off please


- the amount of that " stinky gearoil infused " nasty-ness " will tell a story of how long and so forth .....

- use all white paper towels too ....


- do u know any past history on that rear axle ?


was the hex nut / did it have 2 different staked locations ?

- i SMELL un-skilled human hands involvement in the past here , and i smell it strong too ?

Not sure if I will have time to pull the drain plug this weekend, but if I do I will post it up. I did not know the plug was magnetic. I suppose if there are any metal shavings in there I've got my answer.

I do not know the history on the rear axle. What I do know is the truck has ~300k on it and I have slowly been working through refreshing all of the neglected bits. There are a lot of neglected bits but I'm learning as I go and enjoying it as much as I can.

The hex nut DID have two different staked locations, maybe 1/4 inch apart (maybe even less than that if I remember correctly). It's entirely possible that the pinion bearing is smoked, but I'm holding out some hope that it is just the crush sleeve. I think you are spot on, someone probably swapped out the pinion seal prior to my ownership and got a little too carried away, as we all do from time to time, while re-torqueing the hex nut.
 
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Not sure if I will have time to pull the drain plug this weekend, but if I do I will post it up. I did not know the plug was magnetic. I suppose if there are any metal shavings in there I've got my answer.

I do not know the history on the rear axle. What I do know is the truck has ~300k on it and I have slowly been working through refreshing all of the neglected bits. There are a lot of neglected bits but I'm learning as I go and enjoying it as much as I can.

The hex nut DID have two different staked locations, maybe 1/4 inch apart (maybe even less than that if I remember correctly). It's entirely possible that the pinion bearing is smoked, but I'm holding out some hope that it is just the crush sleeve. I think you are spot on, someone probably swapped out the pinion seal prior to my ownership and got a little too carried away, as we all do from time to time, while re-torqueing the hex nut.


if the CRUSH sleeve was over Comprssed or OVER-CRUSHED > ??

then that free-play jumping around like a AIR CHISSLE does , has ABSOLUTLY smoked that pinion bearing and its race too ,


infact no matter or how the facts led up to your discovering , tha telescoping free play by hand like did well documenting ...btw :)


- you should do what it take to prepare for a substantial failed parts list involving the 41110- Carrier Assy. unit as awhole , because each and every part inside meshes with mechanically in some way in the end directly or indirectly in close compact proximity ,

this above is why i added , and sorta suggested more so the whole FRONT DIFF , out of a front axle PERIOD , and in NO WAY , i will clarify now more clear ,

don;t even consider for a moment a pre-owned rear diff assy , no matter who tells you anything your looking to hear favorable on this REAR AXLE ....


- i have not encountered ANY FJ60 owner operatior that has LESS then a solid 150K or above on the OEM YAZAKI 83100- anywhere in the wester hemisphere ,

but know know there are sure more then a few , some of which , will begin to BIT#H , afte they read my above , and start posrting all there low milage 83100- slot machine wheels , and thats actually KOOL ! 🤣


but a rear axle removed from a LOW MILAGE UNICORN FJ60 that i know you need and want , has the ODDS , stacked in the other way you don't like ...


you need to know this TECH and now you do .....:)



.
 
How can you tell if it’s the crush sleeve leaking vs the seal? I feel like I got the replacement seal in there flush. But I can’t tell exactly where it’s leaking with everything back on the truck. I just see the drip coming from here:

View attachment 3338117



one thing i NEVER mentioned in the FULL floating AXLE thread is that rear DIFF should fit snug as a BUG in a SHAG CARPET rug ino a home depot 5 gallon bucket

i KNOW USPS WILL ship a 5 gallon bucket


the mission critical topic here is MAKE Dam sure , u remove ALL gear oil , like PURPLE POWER , power wash , the FAN dry right away at high speed


the whole idea of any gear oil leaking out of that 5 gallon bucket into a post office deliverey NON-TOYOTA vehicial is a bad idea


also , get the HUSKEY black traqsh bags home depot , wrap that puppy at least 3 times / 3 stand alone bags !


IF YOU CHEAT HERE AND CUT-corners here , THIS IMPORTANT Vapor Barrier step by step procedure , ??


i will sence it right away , via my inner TEq and know .....just know i know ,,,,:idea:

and this is 3 layers of the cheapest insurance policy you will ever buy ....



- NOTE here , and as important one too : i am absoluty 100 % both impressed and also humbled very much also right now after reviewing all your install procedure step by steps you documented , :popcorn: Excellent job ... A+
 

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