Stuck bolt on front lca (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 28, 2019
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34
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410
Location
Highlands Ranch, CO
Website
coachglenndavis.com
I'm sure everyone is given a pass every now and then for immediate help. If so, I'm asking for one now. I'm replacing the left lower control arm today, or at least I thought I was. The bolt on the lca bracket to the frame is not moving. The nut is off. I don't have a reciprocating saw and trying to avoid another errand for this project. Unless I missed something in the Repair Manual, I can't find a procedure to free it. All the Youtube videos show people using a reciprocating saw.

Can I use my 3lb hammer and bash the end of the bolt to free it? Or is this just a waste of time and should I humble myself and go to Home Depot for a saw.
 
Front or rear arm? I haven't removed the front, but the rear always has one that is tougher to remove than the other. Usually, I'll resort to a ratchet strap to compress the joint plus a hammer + drift punch or block of wood to remove the bolt. Sometimes the ratchet strap is enough.

Re: the front, maybe try spinning it out with an impact?
 
It’s on the left front lower control arm, the rear bolt. It’s the rear bolt that attaches the lca to the chassis.

My new Dewalt 20v XR Brushless battery impact easily took off the nut. But the bolt isn’t moving - like the horrible roommate who won’t move out.

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Got it... haven’t pulled that one myself but perhaps some penetrating oil like PB blaster and some time? I do recall others having to resort to more coercive methods if there’s some rust.
 
Got it... haven’t pulled that one myself but perhaps some penetrating oil like PB blaster and some time? I do recall others having to resort to more coercive methods if there’s some rust.
Yep, have been putting Kroil oil on it which was a huge help for the rusted KDSS valves. Next week I'm driving from Denver to the Alabama coast and along with trying to take care of business/home stuff, the lca must be replaced before I go (failing ball joint).
 
If you have a piece of rod, or threaded rod, you could put that against the end of the bolt and hammer on that to drive the bolt out. Ideally, it would help prevent jacking up the threads on the bolt so you can reuse it.
 
The bolt is most like seized in the bushing sleeve. Heat might help, but you risk burning out the rubber. If you have a new bolt and new LCA/bushing, your fastest solution is a sawzall. I would try to get the bolt turning; if it turns you can drive it out with a punch and sledge. Otherwise I’d think about how long it takes to go buy a saw.

If you don’t have a new bolt and bushing, it isn’t too late to put it back together and risk the ball joint. Then reattempt when you’re less pressed for time and parts.
 
If you have a piece of rod, or threaded rod, you could put that against the end of the bolt and hammer on that to drive the bolt out. Ideally, it would help prevent jacking up the threads on the bolt so you can reuse it.
That's a good idea. I should've thought of that but I'm tired and my family is sick which is impacting my attention. The bolt needs to be replaced. I slightly rounded off one of the bolt corners sitting on a 4' breaker bar. I weight 186 (on a good day). I used the 3lb hammer and the bolt is stubborn. I don't have a long round solid bar that would fit against the bolt. Indeed that would be ideal.

I gave the threaded end of the bolt many solid hits with the 3 pounder. Nada. Nothing. Zero. Sigh.

This could be an excuse to buy the DeWalt 20v Max XR reciprocating saw :cool:.
 
The bolt is most like seized in the bushing sleeve. Heat might help, but you risk burning out the rubber. If you have a new bolt and new LCA/bushing, your fastest solution is a sawzall. I would try to get the bolt turning; if it turns you can drive it out with a punch and sledge. Otherwise I’d think about how long it takes to go buy a saw.

If you don’t have a new bolt and bushing, it isn’t too late to put it back together and risk the ball joint. Then reattempt when you’re less pressed for time and parts.
I'm leaning towards getting a saw. My wife and I discussed a few mins ago how we can move our schedules so I can use her Honda CR-V (best errand-run-around-town vehicle ever). I'm sure this issue will arise on the right front side when I replace those. Plus, the bolt for the left stabilizer link, bottom, attached to the left LCA, has also become frozen to the nut. They move, but in tandem. Sure, I can drop the lca then use vise grips to hold the nut. But maybe a saw will just make quick work of both bolts.

@USMCVader has been through much of this world. I told him many times I wish we were neighbors. He bled on his suspension install. Today I shaved off some skin while pushing down the breaker bar on the lca bolt... the socket came loose and the inside of my left arm applied itself against the brake rotor with lots of force. Fun memories.
 
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The money you save doing the work yourself more than pays for a saw. I love my saw, we use it for firewood when camping, Xmas trees, demo on house projects, and yes... getting violent with car projects when needed.
 
The money you save doing the work yourself more than pays for a saw. I love my saw, we use it for firewood when camping, Xmas trees, demo on house projects, and yes... getting violent with car projects when needed.
There ya go! I really do need one for camping as my large axe is just too heavy and big.
 
I'm leaning towards getting a saw. My wife and I discussed a few mins ago how we can move our schedules so I can use her Honda CR-V (best errand-run-around-town vehicle ever). I'm sure this issue will arise on the right front side when I replace those. Plus, the bolt for the left stabilizer link, bottom, attached to the left LCA, has also become frozen to the nut. They move, but in tandem. Sure, I can drop the lca then use vise grips to hold the nut. But maybe a saw will just make quick work of both bolts.

@USMCVader has been through much of this world. I told him many times I wish we were neighbors. I bled on his suspension install. I shaved off some skin while pushing down the breaker bar on the lca bolt... the socket came loose and the inside of my left arm applied itself against the brake rotor with lots of force. Fun memories.
Yikes! Good thing skin is your biggest body part, plenty there to donate to the effort! 😂. As for getting a reciprocating saw, I am jealous that you have come up with a reason to go buy one. I have been trying to justify one for about 20 years and keep finding work arounds that head it off. The idea earlier of spinning it out with the impact gun has merit. Since you are already committed to replacing the bolt, if you can get one person to tap on the bolt with the hammer, while another runs the impact gun on the other end, you might get it to move in the right direction. Wish I was there to help, sounds like a great opportunity to add to all the scars I already have now.
 
This happened on my 100 when I was changing out UCA. I even put a mid torque impact up to it and it wouldn't budge. The first one, used a recip saw. Second, my buddy came over with a torch and torched the rust, smell was nasty, and he melted the fender liner too with the flame.
 
The problem is often corrosion. The bolt rusts into the sleeve of the bushing. Not sure how you are going to get it out short of cutting.
 
Sooo... what exactly are we sawz-alling?

I’d be in the much bigger hammer camp first. Or even grind the head off the other side so you can get a proper swing at a punch and drive it out.
 
One more thought, and I don’t know if there is room here, but I’ve used a pneumatic air chisel to drive frozen bolts through in situations like this on other vehicles. The Audi S4 is famous for getting steel bolts frozen in the aluminum uprights and this trick with the repeated hammering action can break the corrosive bonds. It isn’t quick or fun, but is another tool in the toolbox.
 
One more thought, and I don’t know if there is room here, but I’ve used a pneumatic air chisel to drive frozen bolts through in situations like this on other vehicles. The Audi S4 is famous for getting steel bolts frozen in the aluminum uprights and this trick with the repeated hammering action can break the corrosive bonds. It isn’t quick or fun, but is another tool in the toolbox.
Good call.. they can apply a whole lot of force very efficiently.
 

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