Stubborn Bolts in Alloy: Safest Options? (1 Viewer)

[CaptBeardilocks]

My northern-sourced HDJ80 saw a bit of salt. I had to grind/cut most of the bolts off the underside (cross member etc) to get the engine out.

I'm currently trying to separate the T-Case from the Transmission and I really would prefer not to break any bolts OR the alloy cases. No penetrating oil is going to get into the threads and, as much as I love a good torch, I am unsure how these alloy cases take the heat.

Thoughts? Torch will be fine? Use the Ugga-Dugga or another method?

 

[JeepinPete]

I ran into this when I resealed my transfer case. Two bolts locked in by corrosion in the unthreaded hole in the case half. In both cases the head twisted off of the bolt, but left a stub. Ended up drilling one out, and welding a nut to the stub of the other, twice, to get it out. The aluminum corrosion really seems to hold onto a bolt.

 

[Comet]

Kroil (atf and kerosene) to soften up the galvanic corrosion. No impact tools other than a hammer to jolt the corrosion. The “red wrench” will screw things up quickly so back off to mapp gas instead. Aluminum is solid until it’s not. YMMV and there are always people smarter than me. Or so I let them believe.

 

[Comet]

There was also an electric option that had a coil on the end of the wand. I have not tried that yet but magic is always an option.

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

The induction guns are really great. ...I’d you can get to the threads. The problem with these is that they’re encased in the ... well, case. Lol.

I cant imagine any way to get any kind of penetrating oil to the threads. Well, not until I break the heads off the bolts anyway...

 

[Comet]

As always, pictures when you snap every one of those b@5t@rd5 off. Looking forward to experiencing your though process when things get really gnarly. I will return the favor with pictures when I try on my ‘73. Good times.

 

[Sandy Cruiser]

Kroil like others said or whatever penetrating oil you have lying around and don't just go in cranking on it. Let the oil soak. If anything it will at least soak under the bolt head and help reduce friction.

Once that's done break a bolt loose just a millimeter, spray it with oil, then tighten it back down hand tight (snug). If you hear it crack/pop STOP, spray it with oil, then tighten it back down. Go around the whole flange and do this to every bolt. Then start rocking each bolt back and forth loosening and tightening slowly backing each bolt out. If you feel too much resistance spray the bolt threads with oil and tightening it back down then move on to another bolt for now. Repeat this till you can get all the bolts out. Don't rush it and don't force it.

That's the best I got. Hope it helps.

Edit; Also if one bolt is being really stubborn, clean out all the other threads and put all the other bolts back in to torque specs. Then work on that one stubborn bolt. Sometimes this helps for various reasons. This is how I remove exhaust manifolds too.

 

[Sandy Cruiser]

Sorry one more thing. If the bolt is not budging at all just sit there and keep rocking it back and forth. Even a fraction of a millimeter back and forth is enough to create friction heat and movement to help get the oil in there. This may take awhile so have a comfortable place to sit and a cool beverage.

 

[-Spike-]

Smacking the bolts end-on a few times with a drift might help, and I've never wished I hadn't done it. Also, penetrating oil- another thing I've never regretted doing. I'd wet everything and bang away early on, let it soak, and whack 'em again later. Judiciously applied heat can help, start easy and ramp up as/if required.

 

[JeepinPete]

BTDT. First bolt I drilled, second I welded a nut to the stub. In hindsight I would have welded a nut to both of them, it is a much quicker process.

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

Thanks everyone. Start with soaking and patience. See where that gets me. I'll definitely post up my complete failure when that inevitably happens.

 

[too tall]

BTDT. First bolt I drilled, second I welded a nut to the stub. In hindsight I would have welded a nut to both of them, it is a much quicker process.

I think the heat may have had something to do with it. I have had good luck welding a washer or nut to stuck bolts. Welding while pointing the electrode down the length of the bolt shaft concentrates the heat down the bolt and doesn't affect the holding area as much as using a torch. I believe it is a difference between the two methods of heat that causes it to work better. I will always try to weld something to a broken bolt rather than try to drill/easy out/tap the hole.

 

[WCBlueSky]

+1 for welding onto the bolt. The heat seems to help. I've found welding a cheap socket adapter to the bolt (i.e. High Visibility Socket Adapter Set, 4 Pc.) works well.

 

[-Spike-]

I've broken off bolts, wouldn't move at all, then welded something to them and they unscrew easily. The heat definitely helps. Dunno about welding socket adapters, seems like bolts or nuts work just as easy and are a lot cheaper and easier to come by. If the broken bolt is sitting above the surface, putting a nut on the end and welding from the middle is clean and simple. If you can't move the bolt and you're afraid it will break, welding another bolt to it is my preference. I've never tried it, but you might even be able to just weld on the bolt head a bit to heat it up.

 

[WCBlueSky]

Dunno about welding socket adapters

The idea was that a nut or bolt welded on may round out with extreme torque, while the socket adapter will not (the weld would break first). I was dealing with rounded flywheel bolts, not broken, so I didn't want to weld on another nut/bolt, just to have that round out too. But with the heat from welding, perhaps it would have worked just fine.

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

Getting a crazy idea here... maybe I should hit the end of each bolt with a welding rod before I try to get them out. Give them each a little good-luck hat first.

It might bloody work.

Edit: Typed that before I saw Spikes post. Lol. Great minds...

 

[-Spike-]

Getting a crazy idea here... maybe I should hit the end of each bolt with a welding rod before I try to get them out. Give them each a little good-luck hat first.

It might bloody work.

Edit: Typed that before I saw Spikes post. Lol. Great minds...

Well, I'd at least take a wrench to them first, they might surprise you.

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

Just a quick update. After a 2-3 day soak in Deep Creep I went after them. Firm but gentle rocking broke most of them free. A few had to be coaxed back & forth with re-application of Deep Creep and a moderate heat application. Most bolts had heavy white corrosion but I managed not break any. I think the Deep Creep at least lowering the friction on the washer surface was a big help even if it couldn't get to the threads.

Most of the bolts on the bellhousing were not a problem seeing as how they've been living in an oil bath on the back of the diesel.

 

[cody c]

Cool. You gonna chase the threads and use a good dose of some sort of anti seize product before you put er back together I hope!

I have a can of Nickel Cote that I use in stuff like exhaust manifold bolts and stuff that has worked well for me so far, but maybe there are other recommendations

 

[CaptBeardilocks]

I need to try to get a set of bottom taps to do all the Blind holes in this thing now. Everything needs to be chased before going back together.