Thanks in advance…
Strong vibration in driver’s side wheel…. Need Help! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter timberwilde
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Thanks in advance…
Can’t say whether it’s your vibration but you definitely need to take care of that lower ball joint.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks. Can you replace only the mount or is it best to just replace the whole part? Also should they be done in pairs?
How many miles are on your 100? I would personally replace all 4 all joints, and all the accompanying bushings as well given how dried out your sway bar bushings look. But if the other 3 ball joint boots look ok then you can probably get away with just replacing this one joint.
The old ball joint can be pressed out and replaced with one from 555, no need to replace the whole arm. Replacing the whole arm would be much easier, but also more expensive.
The old ball joint can be pressed out and replaced with one from 555, no need to replace the whole arm. Replacing the whole arm would be much easier, but also more expensive.
- Thread starter
- #5
Awesome. I have 205K on the truck. It is a 2000 LX470.
At that mileage I would just replace all ball joints and all bushings. They’ve had a good life, now put in new ones to last you another 200k.
While that balljoint absolutely should be replaced, it's unlikely to cause humming at speed. I'd guess some sort of rotational damage. Have you ever replaced your wheel bearings? CV Axles? That's the stuff I've be looking for. Lots of worn parts in your front end but none of them look dead enough to cause the symptoms you're describing.
If you jack up the left front and yank/push on the wheel or brake disc, is there a significant amount of movement? If yes - probably time for wheel bearings.
Be warned - replacing lower balljoints on these trucks is not for the faint of heart. I don't think the uppers are replaceable - I think you need a new control arm to replace those.
If you jack up the left front and yank/push on the wheel or brake disc, is there a significant amount of movement? If yes - probably time for wheel bearings.
Be warned - replacing lower balljoints on these trucks is not for the faint of heart. I don't think the uppers are replaceable - I think you need a new control arm to replace those.
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I'm not sure if there are differences within the series, but at least some LC100s have replaceable ball joints. how-to video
I'll be attempting all 4 of mine this weekend.
I'll be attempting all 4 of mine this weekend.
Awesome! Glad to be proven wrong there. I originally just rebooted my uppers but got around to nitro UCAs this passed weekend. At 172k miles, my upper ball joints weren't dead, per se, but there was definitely some play and I could 'click' them in and out a small amount.
It took me a full 4 hours to do one single lower balljoint a while back, even using the appropriate ball joint tools. I eventually used a grinder to cut it off, and a torch and a hammer to get the pieces out of the knuckle. That sucked.
Lowers are “technically” not replaceable otherwise Toyota would offer replacement ball joints. That said- they can be pressed out - many have done it; choose 555 Sankei Brand- ask Cruiser Outfitters. If uppers aren’t loose and boots are good- wait.
As for the vibes and bump you heard- I agree with krispy- that presents like CV axle. Check boots for slinging grease, cuts or tears- and any “remarkable play up/down/in/out. Pull grease cap from flange to be sure your snap ring is connected.
As for the vibes and bump you heard- I agree with krispy- that presents like CV axle. Check boots for slinging grease, cuts or tears- and any “remarkable play up/down/in/out. Pull grease cap from flange to be sure your snap ring is connected.
- Thread starter
- #11
Thank you all for the feedback. I will jack it up and push and pull. I will remove the grease cap and check the snap ring. The rig has never given me any issues. She is a beast and it concerns me to have this vibration and hum. Although my bio says I am in Texas, I have moved from there to Montana and now to the mountains of Western North Carolina. My trusty LX470 has loved every minute of it and I need to get it sound again. I love this forum. Again thanks…
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
I agree, and it kind of looks like some kind of grease/oil has been splattering around.
I noticed that too- it’s all over the bump stop and surrounding area. But looks quite old- a bit like undercoating.
OP- what’s the history on the CV axles: ever rebooted, re-clamped, replaced? FYI- when the grease empty’s out from the boot/tulip the action of the axle cage and bearings will be felt right through the floorboard when the suspension cycles and in turns. Roll the window down and slow turns/circles in parking lot you should hear the axle clicking (IF the CV is shot).
OP- what’s the history on the CV axles: ever rebooted, re-clamped, replaced? FYI- when the grease empty’s out from the boot/tulip the action of the axle cage and bearings will be felt right through the floorboard when the suspension cycles and in turns. Roll the window down and slow turns/circles in parking lot you should hear the axle clicking (IF the CV is shot).
If the hum happened after a strike from underneath the first thing would be to check propeller (front and rear drive) shafts. Look for dents or impacts to shaft tubes, but far more likely the damage will be on the rear shaft as the front is more protected and thicker walled. A minor imbalance will cause a harmonic vibration throughout the drivetrain.
Additionally, if you hit a large object with the wheel and the imbalance began after that, you will want to disassemble the hub and inspect the bearings for damage (also check the spindle bearing which produces a hum if damaged). It's unlikely its a bearing issue unless they were overly loose.
It could have popped a CV clip as mentioned, which if lodged in a weird way would push the CV in and could produce vibration. Very easy to check by taking the dust cap off with a small screw driver.
Additionally, if you hit a large object with the wheel and the imbalance began after that, you will want to disassemble the hub and inspect the bearings for damage (also check the spindle bearing which produces a hum if damaged). It's unlikely its a bearing issue unless they were overly loose.
It could have popped a CV clip as mentioned, which if lodged in a weird way would push the CV in and could produce vibration. Very easy to check by taking the dust cap off with a small screw driver.
Could a wheel weight coming off cause this? Large knock = weight flying off, vibration = unbalanced wheel
Good point - damaged driveshafts make very obvious humming and vibrations.
Very unlikely. Not impossible, but usually wheel weights aren't heard/don't make a humming noise, and are only felt at speed (45+ mph). A seriously damaged wheel is different, but should be obvious.
