My rear locker has never engaged since I’ve owned my 80, so I decided to rebuild my actuator yesterday to see if that’s the problem. 2 of the 4 10mm bolts that hold the actuator onto the axle seem to have already been stripped. Before I round them off even more, does anyone have any suggestions on how to get them out?
Stripped Locker Actuator Bolt
- Thread starter Deen HK
- Start date
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Get rid of your 12 point sockets and wrenches. Use 6 point.
Kroil. Heat. Brush the gunk off for better contact. Weld a nut onto the head.
I've also read that extractors like these work great:
I've also read that extractors like these work great:
- Thread starter
- #4
I switched over to 6 point when dealing with fan clutch bolts and having to use a vice grip to get those suckers off. The issue now is that the socket/wrench both seem to deform the bolt head itself
I’ll try heat, I have a mixture of ATF/acetone I sprayed on them in advance but didn’t help. Worst case I’ll look into those extractors!
@Deen HK years ago, an engineer told me to tap lightly with a hammer after spraying penetrant. Supposed to help it wick into the threads. No idea how true it is, but I've always done it and never had a fastener fail to come off. Maybe it was all a joke and he chuckles to himself at the thought of my tappity-tapping each bolt while laying under a vehicle.
Also, if you don't already know, if a fastener isn't coming loose, it's better to wiggle back and forth (loosen and tighten) than to keep applying more and more loosening force.
Also, if you don't already know, if a fastener isn't coming loose, it's better to wiggle back and forth (loosen and tighten) than to keep applying more and more loosening force.
Heat is needed, then hit with water, then heat again. pound a SAE socket onto it and rattle gun it.
After wrenching for 40 years as a hobby, I discovered heat 5 years ago. It really works. I've gotten shapeless rusty blobs on exhaust bits loose by getting them cherry red, then a rattle gun. On the tapping, you want to whack briskly. You're briefly deforming the metal to cause micro gaps to appear and disappear. That draws the fluid in deeper. Don't deform the fastener, but I wanted to clarify that tapping may be a little too easy. Obviously one person's tap is another's whack, but for what it's worth....
On nut removers, the two examples in the thread here are good ones. Beware the cheap ones where the open end has a radius that prevents the tool from going on all the way. These have the open end machined flat so the teeth grip as deeply on the socket as possible. That second operation adds cost in manufacturing so the cheap ones don't do it. Cheers.
On nut removers, the two examples in the thread here are good ones. Beware the cheap ones where the open end has a radius that prevents the tool from going on all the way. These have the open end machined flat so the teeth grip as deeply on the socket as possible. That second operation adds cost in manufacturing so the cheap ones don't do it. Cheers.
I've run into the same thing on mine. I have bolt extractors but its such a tight spot I can get it to work. What did you end up using?
I don't feel like digging the torches out unless I have to...they are very buried in my shop.
I don't feel like digging the torches out unless I have to...they are very buried in my shop.
Go buy a Snap On flank drive plus 6 point wrench and try the box end first than try the open end if it still is stuck.
If that doesn't work I will buy the wrench from you.
- Thread starter
- #11
I've actually been super busy with work and haven't had a chance to work on the cruiser recently. I'll be doing injectors soon and plan on tackling the actuator again. I think I'm going to try heat combined with one of the irwin extractors. The bolt head is almost completely rounded out. Worst case I'll have to have a buddy of mine weld a nut onto it
I swear by these. They are a game changer.
If there's not enough clearance, I'd seriously think about grinding one down and sacrifice it. They are cheap enough.
There's been times I've pounded the wrong size socket on to things too. Again, a few dollars to replace a socket can be money well spent to preserve your sanity.
Top two bolts on mine are beyond a socket or flank drive.
Bolt extractor or torch/grinder is only hope. Problem is its such a tight spot the extractor will fit but you can't get a racket on it.
Bolt extractor or torch/grinder is only hope. Problem is its such a tight spot the extractor will fit but you can't get a racket on it.
I just ran into this problem last couple of days. Use liquid wrench or WD40 before hand overnight. Then I used the 10 mm socket extractors from Irwin and lightly tapped it on the bolt and there was no room to use a ratchet on the socket so I used a adjustable crescent wrench. Worked like a charm! Socket extractors are definitely a game changer! Also I used these socket extractors to remove the screw heads on the rear diff locker motor cover and it worked perfectly. The screws are perfectly round but the socket extractors had no problem removing them!
I just did this about six weeks ago. Tried all these tricks and didn't get as lucky. Ended up pulling the center pig out. Slid axles out, unbolted the driveshaft and just zip tied it up out of my way, and drained the fluid. Went from a one hour job to about a four hour job. Wasn't to thrilled, and wasn't in a huge hurry either. Was a good chance to check out the center for piece of mind also.
