Strange screeching noise

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webbz47

webbz47

Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Threads
51
Messages
162
Location
Okanagan Valley, B.C.
My JDM 88' BJ70 has been making a strange noise form the drivers side hub. It seems to come and go (louder/quieter) and is definately independant of engine or brake activity. The only sound I can describe it as is a screeching noise simular to a failing fan belt.

Last week I removed the front tire and inspected the pads ...they was 3/4 pad remaining on both sides. Moving the tire back and forth at 12 & 6 oclock did not indicate any bearing looseness. Also, engagaing 4WD lock does not effect at all, the noise ocurrs locked or not.

I have read a couple other threads about noises that have indicated such things as lodged rocks/sticks, brake wear indicator touching rotor but I do not see this. Can bearings be ruled out from what I have described? I am going to take both front tires off again tonight and have a second look ...any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Well a second check of the wheel bearing tightness showed a bit of play on both front side. In fact, the drivers side where I've been hearing noise actually makes a noise when the tire is moved back & forth. Thought a failing bearing noise was more of a rumbling sound? Next step to check both the inner and out wheel bearing on both sides for wear.
 
Sound's like a noisy bearing to me. When you remove the hub/s and have the bearing out if you notice any mud/water then you will probably need the knuckle seal kit or it will whine again in no time if you go in anything dirty...
This is expensive from toy direct, here in the UK from Toyota the part is £220(incldes both sides), I expect that's around $350 US...OUCH!!!!Rip off for a few gaskets,no bearings included in that price. I am sure you can source a cheaper/non toyota part.
Time to repack the birfields, I beleive you call them ;-)

Although they dont usually sound as loud as fanbelt!!!
 
jack up the front end, grab the wheel at 12 oclock and 6 oclock push in at the top and pull at the bottom, now reverse and do it again ... there should be ZERO play... none. no up, no down, no out, no in...
the KOYO bearings can be bought at any transmission supply whearhouse...30306 and 30308 (i believe) are the part numbers.
contact Dan at 4wheel (tell him Crushers sent yah) and buy the complete kit... you are going to need it...
 
It might also be wise to check the back ones, they will not have play in like the front ones.
The whole wheel will seem to move in and out if the bearing is gone.... something that you might think is ok with the 12-6 approach, beacuse the drum/brakes(whatever its called) is bolted directly to the halfshaft or axle, I am new to all this termonology..:-)

Not sure if the above will apply to a BJ though they have 9.5 inch axles(I beleive they do anyway, we dont have BJ's over here)and is slightly different, certainly applies to the Light Duty trucks.
 
in the semi floater rear the axle will move in and out due to the "C"clips but you should have zero movement up and down and back and forth.
rear FF axles should have zero play as well in any direction...
the front should have NO play at all in any direction...
 
After disassembling the front axle I noticed that there was scoring on the thrust washer, the side against the outer bearing. The adjusting nut and lock nut did not appear to be very tight and I'm wondering if there was not enough pressure against the outer bearing causing it to spin and score the thrust washer? Also noticed the adjusting nut and lock nut were put on by hammer and screwdriver not a torque wrench, not sure how they did the preload properly?

Outer bearing looks ok ...still need to remove inner bearing after I figure out how to remove the oil seal, perhaps I'll have to break down and buy a removal tool.
 
to remove the inner wheel hub seal just push on the inner bearing through the hub and the seal will come with it... undamaged in most cases...
 
I did a write-up on my website about inspecting/replacing the bearings.
Maybe its of some help to you?
 
i have seen this on a lot of the thrust washers i have worked on...
i never worry too much about them, i just flip them around and torque properly...
usually these are found on the trucks that have the wheel bearing loose...
 
Well I installed the inner & outer bearings and oil seal and got it all back together. Drove it for a day with no noise and then the same noise reappeared, still comes and goes. There is no more play at 12 & 6 oclock but still the same amount of play at 9 & 3 oclock. Might be time to tear down further?
 
have you confirmed that the particular hub is unlocking properly? if not then that will cause the axle shaft to turn which can result in the noise comeing from the axle shaft rotating i.e. the brass bushing might be damaged, the c/v joint might be damaged or it could be the center unit and the noise traveling down the axle like a phone wire and emitting at the hub area...
note: see sig line
 
That's a very good check to make ...yes I have verified the hubs locking correctly. Since the noise is common to both 2WD & 4WD I am now going to remove the propeller shaft between the rear diff & transfer case to inspect the U-joints. The sound is simular to what a seized U-joint could make.
 
Well I removed the shaft between the transfer & rear diff and looked at the u-joints and they were fine. Noticed the speedometer cable connection while I was by the transfer case and remembered a bit of movement on the speedometer guage needle lately ....so I disconnected the speedometer cable and took it for a drive ...no more noise. No more screeching chirping sounds!!!

Makes sense now that I heard the noise from the drivers front area, it was resonating thru the cable to the back of the instrument panel. The speedo cable probubly just needs to be lubricated.

I bought the front axle bearings for nothing I guess but I wanted to go thru that procedure anyways to re-pack them. Thanks for everyones suggestions, another learning experience for me.
 
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