Storage cabinet (1 Viewer)

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Dec 15, 2004
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Folsom, CA
I built this cabinet last summer in a rush before a trip so I never finished it. Well, today I spent the afternoon carpeting the top, painting the door, adding the paddle latch and putting some rubber matting in the drawer.

I screwed up in a few spots with the carpet but it's really not all that noticable. The paddle latch I ordered works awesome.....overall I'm pretty happy with the results. I also installed 2 of Georges LED's in both the front and rear dome lights....what a difference in light quality.....and best of all they draw less than 1/10th of an AMP each....

Cabinet Specs:

42"x42"
1/2" Russian Plywood - Strong but light
Biscuited, glued, stapled
Angle Iron support (also acts as strike point for the latch)
Accuride 500lb drawer slide http://www.accuride.com/index2.php
Commercial Paddle Latch http://allegiscorp.com

I added some cargo tie-downs on the sides of the cabinet nearest the factory tie-down points and secured the cabinet with 4 turn-buckles.

So whaddya think?
cabinet1.jpg
cabinet2.jpg
cabinet4.jpg
 
Joined
Mar 3, 2004
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OZ
Good job!!!!!!!!
I'm sure you will get a lot of use out of it.
Only one thing I can say (there have been a few made similar) is why you guys don't cut the top plate to suit the vehicle like the roller drawer manufacturers. I expect you could do the same and put the base in and tighten it down then screw the top in. (No offense to you dieselbigot, I bought my drawers prefabbed fortunately for $330 AUD liquidation stock) But I think you and others have done a great job except for the top finishing to the mould of the vehicle. It only takes an extra 3 mnutes with a battery drill to screw the top on.
Great stuff anyway
 

uHu

Bridgeburner
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Nov 27, 2005
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Oslo, Norway
what's the benefit

Why would you have the top extend out to the side?
Isn't it nice to be able to drop stuff that you don't want in the drawer in between the box and the sidewall?
And not have some hard-to-reach spaces along the sides?

Thinking of something similar myself, but currently I use the 3rd seat row to often.
 
Joined
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OZ
If you look at African or Outback, ARB, others you will see lift up sections to access that area, but if you throw stuff in the back and it is a full platform, it doesn't fall down the sides (unless you lift the hatch to let it). I surely would have purchased a full deck in preference to a short deck if the option was available.
(As said in my last post "No offense")

http://www.4wdinteriors.com.au/fitments.php?fid=86&name=100 Series LandCruiser&make=Toyota
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/products_drawers_main.htm
http://www.blackwidow4wdstorage.com/
 

spressomon

glutton
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Good job! You are going to wonder how you did without it!
 
Joined
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Folsom, CA
100 TD said:
But I think you and others have done a great job except for the top finishing to the mould of the vehicle. It only takes an extra 3 mnutes with a battery drill to screw the top on

actually it would have been quite a bit more involved to do a moulded top because there was not one screw involved in the construction of this box. I chose to build this like furniture using biscuits and glue with the lighter 1/2" Russian plywood instead of the heavier 3/4". I did this because I wanted a lighter cabinet that I could easily remove myself. That's also why I used that C channel iron (to stiffen up the top so it wouldn't bow).

It's hard to tell from the pictures but the top is actually a little bigger than the box giving it a lip to grab onto.

Having a moulded top would have been nice but much more involved given the construction method...This photo shows things a little better
PICT0006.JPG
 

hoser

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Nice job, Brett. I was thinking about using 1/2" as well for the same reason as you. Do you know how much the finished cabinet weighs? One more question, the metal railing in the above picture, is that for added strength for the top surface or? Is the the top horizontal piece of wood 1/2" also or 3/4"?
 
Joined
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Folsom, CA
hoser said:
Nice job, Brett. I was thinking about using 1/2" as well for the same reason as you. Do you know how much the finished cabinet weighs? One more question, the metal railing in the above picture, is that for added strength for the top surface or? Is the the top horizontal piece of wood 1/2" also or 3/4"?

Hoser,

I figure the final product weighs about 75lbs....Everything is 1/2" ply including the top...and yes, the C channel iron is there to stiffen up the top and prevent sagging.
 

hoser

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Doh, I just reread your post and missed the "C-channel" part... must've gotten distracted by the picture. I will look into using the Russian plywood... never heard of it. 75 lbs is not bad at all. Thanks for sharing.
 

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