Stopping a 6k lb 80 on 38's better than our bone stock LX450 with refreshed brakes. F+R "motorsport grade" brake upgrade.

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Informative tech video on braking perfromance from Genright with guest R1 Concepts.



Re-iterates most the things I've said in this thread. How important bias is, using prop valve, factory or aftermarket, or even hand picking piston sizes to fine tune bias. Personally think LSPV delete is more of a bandaid than an actual solution. Points out exactly why I personally wouldn't go hydroboost. And how going manual(deleting booster) could benefit modulation. They over how different temperature pads can affect braking.

Personally think Tony did a better job explaining braking performance than the guy from R1 Concepts, hell I could have even done better... Honestly wish there was a company like Genright for the Land Cruiser community.

Anyways, not much progress on the big brake kit production. I've had 3 sets of different families visiting us the past 6 weeks, and moved into a new place, so haven't had much time for anything.
 

on the rocks

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Man, I don't know I agree with off-roading a 6000+ lb cruiser with no booster. I was post front caliper(superlight 6) upgrade/ pre booster(tired old OEM booster/ MC/ ABS DELETE) and heading down a pretty steep 30' drop low speed, low gear and it wasn't a very pleasant feeling. I was giving it all I had and it was not stopping. It was just after a heavy downpour so not sure if that was the issue or the ABS. The 80 did stop great on the road.
Now post hydro booster install, I would say I don't like it more due to the fact its taking from the lack of steering help with the 37's, especially slow speed.
Of course I was sent a 1 1/8" bore MC trusting the place that made me the kit instead of the 1 1/6" I wanted and have not done much wheeling since so can't speak much to over modulation(way too stiff pedal now) but would actually like a softer more responsive feel myself. Seems like the hydro booster and 1 1/16 would be a great combo. I might switch over but holding out for now until I change a few more things and consider this now as well.

This is all from what I have experienced so far and not much time back out again post change and much less knowledge than you seem to have.
P.S. I still want those matching rear caliper brackets and E-brake so please jump on that soon.... :)


If your set on no booster, I would suggest taking your 80 down Redcone pass near Baily CO. I'm pretty sure you will change your mind.
 
Joined
Apr 8, 2018
Messages
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Location
Squamish, BC
Man, I don't know I agree with off-roading a 6000+ lb cruiser with no booster. I was post front caliper(superlight 6) upgrade/ pre booster(tired old OEM booster/ MC/ ABS DELETE) and heading down a pretty steep 30' drop low speed, low gear and it wasn't a very pleasant feeling. I was giving it all I had and it was not stopping. It was just after a heavy downpour so not sure if that was the issue or the ABS. The 80 did stop great on the road.
Now post hydro booster install, I would say I don't like it more due to the fact its taking from the lack of steering help with the 37's, especially slow speed.
Of course I was sent a 1 1/8" bore MC trusting the place that made me the kit instead of the 1 1/6" I wanted and have not done much wheeling since so can't speak much to over modulation(way too stiff pedal now) but would actually like a softer more responsive feel myself. Seems like the hydro booster and 1 1/16 would be a great combo. I might switch over but holding out for now until I change a few more things and consider this now as well.

This is all from what I have experienced so far and not much time back out again post change and much less knowledge than you seem to have.
P.S. I still want those matching rear caliper brackets and E-brake so please jump on that soon.... :)


If your set on no booster, I would suggest taking your 80 down Redcone pass near Baily CO. I'm pretty sure you will change your mind.
Oh, no I will never go manual brakes on an 80. I just don't see a reason for hydroboost if you can properly set up a modern braking system pretty much from scratch. It'll be better than tossing hydroboost on factory brakes designed 30 years ago. You're basically just adding more clamping force and introducing much more heat than factory calipers, rotors, and pads can handle. I think adding hydroboost to what I currently run would just lock up the tires way too quickly(not good).

I was previously referencing how motorsport teams may opt to remove the factory brake booster for manual brakes because in those scenarios they may already be at the threshold of tire traction, and they could make significant gains via brake modulation. I know Tony from Genright is pretty old school and likes full manual everything. :hillbilly:
 

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