Stop light switch adjustment (brake light switch) (1 Viewer)

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shtbrwn86

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Apr 27, 2017
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Location
Tacoma, WA
Had a problem where I had to press on my brakes pretty good to get the brake lights to turn on. Also, the cruise control would not disengage when pressing the brakes unless I pressed pretty hard.

There are some posts on here regarding this issue and I found one that was very helpful, but for whatever reason, I can't find it again. After spending a ton of time trying to adjust this stupid thing in place using stubbies, swivel sockets, etc, I finally broke down and removed the pedal. Wish I would have done that in the first place because it's pretty much impossible to adjust it in place...at least it was for me.

Here is how I did it. Hope it can help someone. Once you have the trim pieces out of the way dropping the pedal is super easy. In fact I dropped and reinstalled it like 5 times to get the brake light adjustment just right.

  1. Remove the dash trim, metal plate, duct etc as shown in the graphic. You might not need to remove all this stuff, but it's really easy and gives you so much more room to work.
  2. Remove the two nuts that hold in the ABS ecu and just move it off to the side. Don't need to disconnect any plugs.
  3. Remove the three bolts holding the pedal in place. Two on the top and one on the pivot.
  4. Drop the pedal a bit, which makes it easier to disconnect the stop light switch.
  5. Move the pedal until it can clear the bracket and you should have plenty of room to adjust it now.
  6. Using a 14mm stubby, loosen the nut on the switch so that you can rotate the switch in whichever direction you want.
  7. Tighten the nut back up on the switch.
  8. Bolt the pedal back into place and test the pedal with your hand to see if it comes on when you expect. I just used my other car as a reference for when it should come on.
  9. Should probably use threadlock on the bolt that goes through the pivot point.

Bottom line is that this ended up being pretty easy once the pedal was dropped. But it is WAY harder than it should be. You telling me Toyota couldn't have moved that metal plate back 1/2 inch and not have it wrap around the nut? I mean maybe that's for security reasons but seems like it could be easier.

I think mine was off because they booster/MC was replaced by the prior owner and they didn't take the switch into account when they hooked everything back up.

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