Still No Spark!!

77TLCFJ40

 
 
Joined
Jul 30, 2003
Messages
5,762
Location
Madison, MS
CLC,

When I turn the key... nothing. Not even a click.

Here is the time line and what I have done so far:

Ignitor Died on the way home from GSMTR
Installed Pertronoix in place of Points & eliminated Ignitor
Drove it home from Forrest - Noticed it was not Charging - ran well
Checked Alternator - OK
Replaced Voltage Regulator - Now Charging
Jump started it and drove it to Sapaugh's - ran great - charged great
Hard to start leaving Sapaugh's - noticed starter cable loose
Tightened all connections - Would not start
New Coil
New Dist Cap & Rotor - both looked bad (burned) at cap to rotor connection
Battery checked OK - Full Charge
New Starter - Old one tested dead
Rechecked all connections and block to frame ground - looks OK
Ignition to ON......STILL NOTHING Not even a click.

Ideas?? TIA

I really want to get it running for this weekend!!!!!

Lash
 

Clutchee

I'm fun sized!
SILVER Star
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2004
Messages
3,848
Location
Hotel M-F, home weekends!
Lash
Did you look at the rust on the starter connectors? This could be the problem....
Call me if you need help....I can come by and give you a hand...P.S. I will be needing help this weekend.......
 

77TLCFJ40

 
 
Joined
Jul 30, 2003
Messages
5,762
Location
Madison, MS
Installed a brand new (rebuilt) starter yesterday before I posted. How do I test for 12v at the starter? What other tests do I need to run?


Lash
Electrically Challenged (among other things)
 
Joined
May 26, 2004
Messages
1,908
Location
Atlanta, GA
Go buy a $20 VOM and set it to "DC" put one lead on the frame or some other ground and the other lead on the starter cable. W/ the key turned to "start" you should get 12v to the starter. If not you need to check farther up the line and figure out why not.
 

dd113

 
Joined
Jun 13, 2003
Messages
2,922
Battery cables or terminals. Just so happens I know where you can get some good ones.
 

77TLCFJ40

 
 
Joined
Jul 30, 2003
Messages
5,762
Location
Madison, MS
Battery cables and terminals are less than a year old with no corosion at all.

Does anyone think it could be the fusable link? Parts guy at the dealer said to bypass it and see if it starts. If so order a new one next week for ~ $9.00.

Brian is going to drop by tomorrow evening with a VOM to try and help me track it down. Thanks Brian.

My next job is to figure out why all this electrical crap happened. Maybe it was just the stress of GSMTR and 1,000+ miles on an OLD truck. Maybe I pulled the wrong cable off the battery when having my new sliders welded on. I pulled the positive cable, but have since read that you should pull the ground! What's the right way to weld on your truck without frying your junk?

Thanks for all the support.

Lash
 

77TLCFJ40

 
 
Joined
Jul 30, 2003
Messages
5,762
Location
Madison, MS
David,

Lights work great, even with key turned to start or run position.

How the hell do I bypass the fusable link??

Thanks

Lash
My ignition system is a TARD!
 

dd113

 
Joined
Jun 13, 2003
Messages
2,922
You need a meter to figure this out. You could also borrow Greg's grass skirt and bag of bones but I think a meter will work quicker.
 
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